From the "tub up"

[Cheez]

Didn't really want to lock the front diff, but EXO HD differential output shafts (AX30381) are discontinued. What's up with that?
My concern is that I have Vanquish axles coming and they don't recommend using them with locked diff. Any thoughts out there?
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1496698512

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

Maybe throw a dollar amount in there (one that itemises the build part by part) as you go, so guys have an clear idea of what a bespoke, from the chassis Yeti could cost in its entirety.

I imagine it's going to be an awesome truck!

Keeping track of the $$$ will give me the heebie jeebies and cold feet. I actually have a modest budget... you guys know what these parts cost

[Cheez]

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1496698512

[Cheez]

Not a big fan of aluminum posts, I'll have to keep the shiny side up.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1496768181

[Cheez]

Decided to unlock the front, gears and gaskets are in the mail.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1497207968

[Cheez]

Ugh!
B/O gasket and caphead screws finally in the mail. Building from scratch will be a slow process.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1497212335

[Cheez]

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1497212335
No gasket, no screws....but looking sweet

[Cheez]

Still waiting on gaskets and capheads to button it up.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1497486611
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1497486611

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Cheez

Keeping track of the $$$ will give me the heebie jeebies and cold feet. I actually have a modest budget... you guys know what these parts cost

Not keeping track isn't going to save you any money.

I wish you all the best with your build, but I think your use of the 'scratch build' phrase lacks accuracy, if you are not going to be fabricating any of the parts yourself. Perhaps a more apt description would be 'mail-order build'.

To me, 'scratch build' invokes images such as this:

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by DavidH

Not keeping track isn't going to save you any money.

I wish you all the best with your build, but I think your use of the 'scratch build' phrase lacks accuracy, if you are not going to be fabricating any of the parts yourself. Perhaps a more apt description would be 'mail-order build'.

To me, 'scratch build' invokes images such as this:

I bow down to your keen sense of accuracy, I'm just a humble Joe who doesn't have access to lathes, cnc, or any of the other stuff in a machine shop. I get immense satisfaction out of sitting at my bench and putting things together.
I didn't title it fabrication build, but I'll try to edit to mail order build, should make everyone happy. In the end I appreciate all the input given to me to make the best toy to play with.

[Cheez]

(Scratch) was the wrong word . Tub up , no kit no RTR, is more accurate.
And seriously, how do you incorporate the cost of a machine shop into a build?

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Cheez

I bow down to your keen sense of accuracy, I'm just a humble Joe who doesn't have access to lathes, cnc, or any of the other stuff in a machine shop. I get immense satisfaction out of sitting at my bench and putting things together.

Don't sell yourself short. While I have a decent little machine shop in my garage, I find that, working with aluminum and ABS, there is plenty that can be crafted with a hacksaw/jigsaw, drill, and some proper hand tools. A sturdy vice bolted to a bench goes a long way.

Or this this case, you could have simply started with a kit.

I didn't title it fabrication build, but I'll try to edit to mail order build, should make everyone happy. In the end I appreciate all the input given to me to make the best toy to play with.

Originally Posted by Cheez

(Scratch) was the wrong word . Tub up , no kit no RTR, is more accurate.

What I like about 'mail-order build' description is that it alludes to the $$ it is costing you to build it.

I am building a yeti from the 'plate up' (pictured above) but I am taking a different path, as I simply purchased a kit from a local dealer that was unhappy with Axial and was blowing out his kits. Everything I need is either in the kit or I can fabricate it on the bench out of aluminum or ABS.

And seriously, how do you incorporate the cost of a machine shop into a build?

I am fortunate to have started my shop when I was young, but it's easy, just like the sport fisherman that estimates the cost of each fish caught by dividing the price of his new boat by the number of fish caught.

[Cheez]

For "haters" yes this is mail order. For me, my family,and friends this is documenting and reaching out for help when needed
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1497745368

[Cheez]

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1498059271

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Cheez

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1498059271

At this point, have you done anything for the front hinge pins? The plastic front arms are easy enough to sleeve (I've done my own) but with the aluminum arms you would need to be very careful.

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by DavidH

At this point, have you done anything for the front hinge pins? The plastic front arms are easy enough to sleeve (I've done my own) but with the aluminum arms you would need to be very careful.

Not sure what you mean by "have I done anything with the front hinge pins ". Came together very smoothly, I'm using the plastic hex nuts off of parts tree from my rtr for now. Metal m3 locking hex nuts are on the way if I decide to swap them out.

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Cheez

Not sure what you mean by "have I done anything with the front hinge pins ". Came together very smoothly, I'm using the plastic hex nuts off of parts tree from my rtr for now. Metal m3 locking hex nuts are on the way if I decide to swap them out.

Depends on how you drive, and what you hit, but the front hinge pin is a weak point in the front suspension, even with the aluminum arms.

I have only bent one pin so far, but after did the mod while I had the truck apart, for the cost of a 12" section of steel brake line ($2). You may want to do the mod while you are at this point.

stongest hinge pins?

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by DavidH

Depends on how you drive, and what you hit, but the front hinge pin is a weak point in the front suspension, even with the aluminum arms.

I have only bent one pin so far, but after did the mod while I had the truck apart, for the cost of a 12" section of steel brake line ($2). You may want to do the mod while you are at this point.

stongest hinge pins?

Gotcha, I've replaced a couple. I have a bag of them on the bench.
My driving style is /will be rock racing almost identical to the video on Axial's web site.
Here's what my rtr's underside looks like.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1498159583
I Read the thread, are we talking about metal tubing or braided brake line as a sleeve?

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Cheez

Gotcha, I've replaced a couple. I have a bag of them on the bench.
My driving style is /will be rock racing almost identical to the video on Axial's web site.
Here's what my rtr's underside looks like.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/attac...1&d=1498159583
I Read the thread, are we talking about metal tubing or braided brake line as a sleeve?

Double-walled steel tubing; I used this:

Domestic Poly-Armour PVF Steel Brake Line 3/16 x 12 - AGS Company AGS Company

I cut it using a regular pipe cutter, for copper pipe.

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by DavidH

Double-walled steel tubing; I used this:

Domestic Poly-Armour PVF Steel Brake Line 3/16 x 12 - AGS Company AGS Company

I cut it using a regular pipe cutter, for copper pipe.

Thanks for the info.