Picking Yeti parts, please help and suggest

[mikemcE]

I have a pro 4 3100 in mine. Gobs of torque, I geared mine down , as I didn't want to fly. The roc is an all in crawler motor, while the pro4 has speed and torque, great motor
!


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[Antsiranean]

So, a while into the discussions and with a few parts on their way from the US, I thought it might be worth a post listing what I (think I) have settled on so far. Thanks a lot for helping me out!

Motor and ESC, I intend to run it on 3S
Tekin PRO4 Heavy-Duty Brushless 2-3S 3000kV Motor, 145$ with a Castle Creations Mamba X Sensored 25.2V WP ESC, 145$
High speed, high torque and more efficient than the ROC412, if I got it right. Check out this thread for an interesting discussion. If DavidH turns out to be very, very satisfied with the ROC412 he's getting I might reconsider.

Steering servo
Savox 1210SG
Waterproof, probably strong enough and good price. 80$
Or maybe a Savox 1270TG, 84$, not waterproof but "water resistant". Stronger than the 1210SG.
Xpert 7701, 99$, waterproof IP67, 380 oz-in @ 7,4V; 485 @8,4

Radio and receiver
FlySky GT3B, I have one already and am very happy with it. Since the included receiver only is rated for 6V (thanks Magic_Yeti), I'll get a
Futuba R203GF receiver, that handles 7,4V
Maybe a RX-bypass-adapter, if I install a BEC.

Servo for 2-speed transmission
Savox 0231MG, 37$
Waterproof, strong enough and good price

Aluminum parts from STRC.
Steering bellcrank set, 42$, to tighten up steering a bit
Front skid plate, 18$
Front caster block, 21$
Steering knuckles, 27$
Front shock tower, 20$
Rear upper shock mount plate, 7$

Axial aluminum parts (because these particular parts are (were, due to mistake from tower hobbies) cheaper than STRC)
Machined Adjustable Motor, 30$
Servo horn 25T, 14$

Rear end stuff
MIP X-Duty Rear C-Drive Kit, 34$
SSD wide rear axle, 110$
SSD rear trailing arms, 35$, because as someone said, the rod ends defines a break point and they are cheap to replace. Therefore not Vanquish.
SSD Titanium rear upper links, 18$
SSD rod ends, 4$, goes in my pocket

Wheels and tires - please tell me if this is not OK, since I find this very confusing. Are the wheels and tires compatible?
ProLineDenali 2.2", 66$ (for four wheels). I'll probably go for these and save me some money compared to SSD or Vanquish.
Pro-Line BFGoodrich Baja T/A KR2 2.2" G8 Rock Terrain Truck Tires, 60$
ProLine single stage foams, 28$. Might as well go ProLine all the way. Since I think I'll bash more than crawl single stage should be the way to go, right? I'm afraid I'll roll over a lot more with double stage.

Gears, bits and pieces
Axial 2-speed transmission, 95$. For more power and control at low speeds. I think I'll wait with the 2-gear until I see how the Pro4 HD performs at low speeds. Axial instead of SSD, since it's all inclusive, as DavidH pointed out.
Stainless steel screws from RC Schrauben, ~45$.
SSD HD rear axle shafts, 25$. Maybe. If I am on a spending spree.

That's about it. Maybe a 56T spur gear too. And maybe a vinyl sheet from Freqeskins for a killer look. While I'm at it, I'd like to name the project "Snowman". So that I later can get a Bomber that I'll call Crake.

[mikemcE]

DONT buy the HD shafts for your wide diamond as it COMES with them !

Not sure if the proline wheels will hold onto the beads. I went with SSD and GearHead wheels for the Yeti and Wraith, as my prolines got sold with another rig, your running a big motor also.

I also run the axial 2speed, with my motor and gearing the 2speed let's me rip, and then grind through the slop. I do run a RR slipper setup.

[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

DONT buy the HD shafts for your wide diamond as it COMES with them !

"Hardened steel shafts" are supplied with the axle.

"Hardened heavy duty steel shafts with titanium hexes" are the optional shafts I might get. Less likely to bend, since there's no hole for a wheel pin in them.

Considering the ProLine wheels I am a bit worried about wheels popping, but I try to manipulate myself into getting something a bit cheaper. SSD wheels would be 60$ more. But the most expensive would be to first buy ProLine, be dissapointed and then go SSD. I hate getting cheap things that I need to upgrade, so, knowing myself I'll end upp with SSD.

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Antsiranean

...
Motor and ESC, I intend to run it on 3S
Tekin PRO4 Heavy-Duty Brushless 2-3S 3000kV Motor, 145$ with a Castle Creations Mamba X Sensored 25.2V WP ESC, 145$
High speed, high torque and more efficient than the ROC412, if I got it right. Check out this thread for an interesting discussion. If DavidH turns out to be very, very satisfied with the ROC412 he's getting I might reconsider.

I'll keep you updated.

...
Wheels and tires - please tell me if this is not OK, since I find this very confusing. Are the wheels and tires compatible?
ProLineDenali 2.2", 66$ (for four wheels). I'll probably go for these and save me some money compared to SSD or Vanquish.
Pro-Line BFGoodrich Baja T/A KR2 2.2" G8 Rock Terrain Truck Tires, 60$
ProLine single stage foams, 28$. Might as well go ProLine all the way. Since I think I'll bash more than crawl single stage should be the way to go, right? I'm afraid I'll roll over a lot more with double stage.

I'd listen to Mike and gang with regards to keeping tire beads locked into the wheels. Lots of grief to be had there, especially when mixing brands.

As for those tires, they have nice scale appearance but I'd go with something with a higher void ratio, and perhaps some siping. As always, it depends on how you intend to use them.

The single stage foams are needed for handling at speed; you can always change them out if they don't provide the deformation you think is needed when crawling.

Having run only low-profile tires on my truck up til now, this does seem odd, like putting 70-series tires on a sports car, and inflating them to 100 psi to make the car more stable at speed.

...

While I'm at it, I'd like to name the project "Snowman". So that I later can get a Bomber that I'll call Crake.

..of Oryx and Crake.

[mikemcE]

Send a pm to SSD , that's what I got when I got mine a month or so ago, much to my surprise. The "stock" hardened ones don't come with keyed hexes, but pins (your link)

Hexes are in bag up front


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[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by DavidH

I'd listen to Mike and gang with regards to keeping tire beads locked into the wheels. Lots of grief to be had there, especially when mixing brands.

As for those tires, they have nice scale appearance but I'd go with something with a higher void ratio, and perhaps some siping. As always, it depends on how you intend to use them.

I had never heard the terms void ration and siping until now, but google is nice and I get your point. Good to get an idea of what to look for in a tire, an hour ago they all looked the same to me. Maybe the ProLine Hyrax would be a better idea. And then bite the bullet and splurge on SSD wheels. Less headache and better looks, should be worth the money.

Originally Posted by DavidH

..of Oryx and Crake.

I had a feeling you would get that one.

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Send a pm to SSD , that's what I got when I got mine

Nice! I'll check with SSD.

[mikemcE]

I also just ordered a set of Hyrax and some SSD wheels for OPIE, great choice !
If you do that combination, make sure the wheels are the proline type, just a different interior tube (blue)





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[Antsiranean]

SSD got back to me and it turns out they provides the Hardened heavy duty steel shafts with steel Hexes. Se below. Great! Since it doesn't come across very clearly on their homepage, I asked them to change the information - it might get them another customer or two.

Originally Posted by SSD

Hi,
Our Wide Diamond rear axles are packed with the HD shafts + Titanium hexes.

Regards

[Antsiranean]

So, I have slowly started to gather parts and have spent some time reading the manual to the Mamba ESC. Two questions pop up:

1: should I get the Mamba X (for vehicles up to 9 lbs) or the Mamba Monster X Extreme (for vehicles up to 15 lbs)? I suppose it is the first one that is to go with a Tekin Pro4 HD 3000kv, but just want to double check before I order.

2: The Mamba has an aux-channel that can be used to change settings on the fly, with a 3-channel transmitter. That means that I, with a FlySky GT3B, can use the third channel either for a 2-speed transmission, or skip the 2-speed and use that 3rd channel to change either drag brake or put the vehicle in "crawler mode". But I can't do both. Actually, I don't fully get the "crawler mode" and when it switches between "rock racer" and "crawler. See quote from CS below.

Changing between 'Rock Race Mode' and 'Crawler Mode'
There is a point on the AUX wire signal that will switch between the 'Rock Race Mode' and 'Crawler Mode'. This point is adjustable and is controlled by the Castle Link ‘Drag Brake’ setting on the ESC. When the AUX wire Drag Brake value is at or below the Castle Link 'Drag Brake' setting it will be in 'Rock Race Mode'; when the AUX wire Drag Brake value is above the Castle Link 'Drag Brake' setting it will be in 'Crawler Mode'. Please see the examples below for a better understanding of how this works.

So, question is, 3rd channel for 2-speed or for aux-functions? Which will crawl better?

PS. I'll be adjusting the list above as I go, with prices paid. I should have done a placeholder after my first post, to reflect current status, but since I forgot the post above will have to do.

PS2. the Xpert 7701 steering servo is waterproof, IP67-certified. Might get that one instead of the Savox 1210SG, since it's stronger.

[magic_yeti]

Just install new Firmware in your gt3b and you have Up to 8 ch so desicion between 2 speed and AUX elimnated
See electronics section.


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[shiftauto]

^^^what he said

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Antsiranean

...

2: The Mamba has an aux-channel that can be used to change settings on the fly, with a 3-channel transmitter. That means that I, with a FlySky GT3B, can use the third channel either for a 2-speed transmission, or skip the 2-speed and use that 3rd channel to change either drag brake or put the vehicle in "crawler mode". But I can't do both.

Sure you can. The aux connection and the shift servo can run in parallel off of the same channel, as long as the default shift servo direction works for you (I don't think the modes are reversible within the ESC at this time).

[Antsiranean]

Great! Thanks a lot. ESC (Mamba X for up to 9lbs, right?) to be ordered as soon as I get some cash back coupons from Tower Hobbies, hopefully tomorrow.

[DavidH]

If you run the mamba aux wire and shift servo in parallel, and find that you need to reverse the servo, you can use something like the $8 servo reverser/y-harness from horizon hobbies. (EXRA320). Not all servos run the same direction.

[DavidH]

So I just hooked mine up, with the aux wire and the shift servo wired in parallel off of the rx. Set the aux wire to rock racer/crawler mode select.

1) the shift servo runs the wrong way . Fortunately, I can (and did) mechanically reverse the linkage. Problem solved.

2) I needed to adjust the transmitter travel sufficiently to make the esc happy first, then mechanically set the shifter travel and endpoints using the shift servo horn holes and linkage.

I still need to do some unrelated fabrication before I can take it out for a run.

[Antsiranean]

I'm all ears DavidH, thanks for the update. It'll be really interesting to hear your opinion on the ROC once you've gotten it up and running.

[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by DavidH

So I just hooked mine up, with the aux wire and the shift servo wired in parallel off of the rx. Set the aux wire to rock racer/crawler mode select.

1) the shift servo runs the wrong way . Fortunately, I can (and did) mechanically reverse the linkage. Problem solved.

Did you reverse the linkage within the servo, or by changing the servo's position?

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Antsiranean

Did you reverse the linkage within the servo, or by changing the servo's position?

#18

[Antsiranean]

Time has passed and bits and pieces have been ordered, with just a few more things to go (including the Yeti kit itself...) I am about to place a final order at Tower and it has no reached 180$. Should it come to 200$ I will get 40$ discount instead of 20$, as of now. Which of course means that I can spend 20$ for free, nice! But what should I get? Please have a look at my purchases so far, listed below, and make a suggestion. I will buy colours, silicone oil and such locally in Sweden.

An aluminium front shock tower? Steering King pins in reserve? Some springs for the axial front shocks? Proline PowerStrokes for the front (54$, I know, but still)? A light kit (seems to cost a lot though, any cheap suggestions? ) A Pinion gear? A spur gear?

Once again, thanks a lot for all help so far!

Motor and ESC, I intend to run it on 3S
Tekin PRO4 Heavy-Duty Brushless 2-3S 3000kV Motor, 145$
Castle Creations Mamba X Sensored 25.2V WP ESC, 145$
4mm bullet connectors, three sets, 12$
Tekin 12AWG wire, 10$

Steering servo
Xpert 7701, 99$, waterproof IP67, 380 oz-in @ 7,4V; 485 @8,4
servo reverser, 9$

Radio and receiver
FlySky GT3B
Futuba R203GF receiver, 43$

Servo for 2-speed transmission
Savox 0231MG, 37$

Aluminum parts from STRC.
Steering bellcrank set, 42$, to tighten up steering a bit
Front skid plate, 18$
Front caster block, 21$
Steering knuckles, 27$
Rear upper shock mount plate, 7$

Axial aluminum parts
Machined Adjustable Motor mount, 30$
Servo horn 25T, 14$

Rear end stuff
MIP X-Duty Rear C-Drive Kit, 34$
SSD wide rear axle, 110$
SSD rear trailing arms, 35$
SSD Titanium rear upper links, 18$
SSD rod ends, 4$
Proline XT rear shocks, 60$ (I know I shouldn't have, but they looked so cool I couldn't help myself)

Wheels and tires
SSD Proline wheels, 108$
Proline Hyrax tires, 60$
CI Double Deuces foams, soft and medium for front and back respectively, 34$

Gears, bits and pieces
Axial 2-speed transmission, 95$.
Stainless steel screws from RC Schrauben, ~45$.
RPM front A-arms, 15$