Picking Yeti parts, please help and suggest

[mikemcE]

First thing needed are better front a arm pins, and sleeve the arms. This is the weakest link up front. If the arms flex and bend pins, the aluminum Bell tank won’t make a big difference.
I sleeved mine for about $6.00 , a 1’ length of 3/16 SS tubing, and the pins. McMaster Carr sells 12.9 hardened pins


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[magic_yeti]

lock for some springs for the shox to play with. a lot of your list you also can get from eu stores.
i'm not quit sure if the receiver fits the tx.
an alloy shock mount isn't a bad idea. and out of your list maybe if u want look for some blink

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[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

i'm not quit sure if the receiver fits the tx.

What does that mean? What's tx?

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by Antsiranean

What does that mean? What's tx?

Tx is transmitter you have a fly sky
Rx is receiver you have a Futaba
Not sure if they will work together



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[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Antsiranean

Time has passed and bits and pieces have been ordered, with just a few more things to go (including the Yeti kit itself...) I am about to place a final order at Tower and it has no reached 180$. Should it come to 200$ I will get 40$ discount instead of 20$, as of now. Which of course means that I can spend 20$ for free, nice! But what should I get? Please have a look at my purchases so far, listed below, and make a suggestion. I will buy colours, silicone oil and such locally in Sweden.

An aluminium front shock tower? Steering King pins in reserve? Some springs for the axial front shocks?

I just changed to the blue dot 'super firm' springs on my yeti, and it added some control at speed, with less preload.

Proline PowerStrokes for the front (54$, I know, but still)?

The powerstrokes look fancy, but seem to be under-sprung for weight of the yeti, as the short course trucks they are usually put on are much lighter. The primary spring can be bottomed out before you get the battery in.



While coil binding may not have the consequences it does on a 1:1 vehicle, I still avoid having it.

A light kit (seems to cost a lot though, any cheap suggestions? ) A Pinion gear? A spur gear?

You might want a larger pinion (17-18t) to get a bit more top end, but I found the problem was more getting the power to the ground than not having enough speed.

Once again, thanks a lot for all help so far!

Motor and ESC, I intend to run it on 3S
Tekin PRO4 Heavy-Duty Brushless 2-3S 3000kV Motor, 145$
Castle Creations Mamba X Sensored 25.2V WP ESC, 145$
4mm bullet connectors, three sets, 12$
Tekin 12AWG wire, 10$

Steering servo
Xpert 7701, 99$, waterproof IP67, 380 oz-in @ 7,4V; 485 @8,4
servo reverser, 9$

Good catch on the servo reverser, as you will most probably need that for the shift servo.

Radio and receiver
FlySky GT3B
Futuba R203GF receiver, 43$

Servo for 2-speed transmission
Savox 0231MG, 37$

You'll need a servo-saver-type horn for the shift servo.

Aluminum parts from STRC.
Steering bellcrank set, 42$, to tighten up steering a bit
Front skid plate, 18$
Front caster block, 21$
Steering knuckles, 27$
Rear upper shock mount plate, 7$

Axial aluminum parts
Machined Adjustable Motor mount, 30$
Servo horn 25T, 14$

Rear end stuff
MIP X-Duty Rear C-Drive Kit, 34$
SSD wide rear axle, 110$
SSD rear trailing arms, 35$
SSD Titanium rear upper links, 18$
SSD rod ends, 4$
Proline XT rear shocks, 60$ (I know I shouldn't have, but they looked so cool I couldn't help myself)

Wheels and tires
SSD Proline wheels, 108$
Proline Hyrax tires, 60$
CI Double Deuces foams, soft and medium for front and back respectively, 34$

Gears, bits and pieces
Axial 2-speed transmission, 95$.
Stainless steel screws from RC Schrauben, ~45$.
RPM front A-arms, 15$

The arms are not the weak point, it is the pins. Sleeve the factory arms first, then look to other options.

[mikemcE]

Correct about the Power strokes , you need a spring kit, preload springs are all the same colors, it’s the length of the primary springs that make you buy more !


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[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by DavidH

The powerstrokes look fancy, but seem to be under-sprung for weight of the yeti, as the short course trucks they are usually put on are much lighter. The primary spring can be bottomed out before you get the battery in.



While coil binding may not have the consequences it does on a 1:1 vehicle, I still avoid having it.
[... ]
You'll need a servo-saver-type horn for the shift servo.

Didn't know they bottomed out like that, but that seems to make the dual rate shock into a single rate before the car even touches the ground properly. Since I then really can't see any point in the PowerStrokes (reading up on dual rates I quite liked the theory of them), and since I have them placed on back order, I think I'll cancel them and buy some blue springs instead.

Originally Posted by DavidH

You'll need a servo-saver-type horn for the shift servo

Why? I thought everything needed was included in the 2-gear kit?

Originally Posted by DavidH

The arms are not the weak point, it is the pins. Sleeve the factory arms first, then look to other options.

Got that. 3/16 ss tube has been ordered, forgot it in the post above.

[magic_yeti]

i use the axial 2-speed without a servo saver. i think the servo saver is maybe needed for the ssd 2speed option. only need was setting the end points correct.

for the front shox get the 70mm blue axial spring better than the 54mm.

i ditched the pro line xt shox, cause with the provided springs they are too soft for my liking. i use the kit icons with dual spring setup (2 54mm springs) the needed spring connector (or how u will call it) is in the kit parts.

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[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Tx is transmitter you have a fly sky
Rx is receiver you have a Futaba
Not sure if they will work together

Seems they won't. Had no idea. Thanks a lot for pointing that out. Away goes that receiver, which I was just about to buy. Guess I'll either get a BEC (to run my servo on 7,4V) or a Futuba 3PV transmitter.

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by Antsiranean

...

Why? I thought everything needed was included in the 2-gear kit?

My mistake. The kit includes a servo saver, but IIRC the spring rusted up quickly and I swapped it out for a spare saver horn I had from back in the 80's.

I do recommend that you coat every bit of non-stainless metal in your kit with Corrosion X or Fluid Film before taking the rig out and getting it wet.

[Antsiranean]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

i ditched the pro line xt shox, cause with the provided springs they are too soft for my liking. i use the kit icons with dual spring setup (2 54mm springs) the needed spring connector (or how u will call it) is in the kit parts.

What colour springs do you use for your dual rate setup? Could you post a picture of it? I'm quite curious about it. What do you think about performance compared to kit stock shocks?

[magic_yeti]

Originally Posted by Antsiranean

What colour springs do you use for your dual rate setup? Could you post a picture of it? I'm quite curious about it. What do you think about performance compared to kit stock shocks?

here are some pics in this post
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-yeti/567606-yeti-alllg%E4u-my-little-monster-post5542631.html

and the springs are out of the hotracing 54mm set and the icon plus the 700cst work great. the front set up is easy just blue 70mm with 500cst works great on every surface i drove so far. rear is very depending on surface, weight, drivestyle aso. that why i bought a few sets for playing around., which sets i got you can find here A Yeti for the Alllgäu or my little monster
Hope that helps.

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[Antsiranean]

Thanks! Your Yeti seems to be of the "been there, done that, and have the scars to prove it" kind. Very informative thread of yours. I might eventually copy your shock setup.

Reading it, again, and reading up a bit more on electronics, I have now decided to go with a FlySky GT3B and an external BEC, to provide my steering servo with 7,4 volts. It's cheaper than getting a Futaba 3PV with its' 7,4V capable receiver, and if I get a Y-harness (This one), the wiring shouldn't be very complicated.

Goal of this weekend is to get permission from my wife to order the Yeti kit - I still just have a bunch of upgrades, but no car. Pathetic, I know, but this is an aspect of marriage that sometimes requires rather intricate verbal work to get what one needs (and wife thinks is ridiculous). Wish me good luck.

[magic_yeti]

you can't use the y harness to connect bec servo and rx. better get this one if you want to simplify your wiring.
RX Bypass Adapter With Auxiliary Output - Wiring & Wiring Accessories - Electronics & Wiring

thx glad if my thread helps, i'm still new to this and learning. but i'm very good in breaking things

[Antsiranean]

Right! They look deceptively similar, I didn't look close enough at the wires. Thanks for pointing that out to me.

[Antsiranean]

YES! Permission granted from superior! Yeti kit will be ordered today! My wife truly loves me!

[Cheez]

Originally Posted by Antsiranean

YES! Permission granted from superior! Yeti kit will be ordered today! My wife truly loves me!

Good luck and have fun!
Enjoy your build and keep a relaxed state of mind when tinkering

[Antsiranean]

While waiting for the kit to turn up, I have started sketching on the body graphics. Could someone please measure the dimensions (length x breadth) of roof, side "panels" and hood? That'd be most helpful.

[soze]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

First thing needed are better front a arm pins, and sleeve the arms. This is the weakest link up front. If the arms flex and bend pins, the aluminum Bell tank won’t make a big difference.
I sleeved mine for about $6.00 , a 1’ length of 3/16 SS tubing, and the pins. McMaster Carr sells 12.9 hardened pins


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You have a link to these?

[mikemcE]

I use the stock Axial ones with my sleeves, I got the tubing at ace hardware


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