Trailing arm woes
 

So I've got SSD trailing arms on my rig. Seems like every other time I take the truck out, I'm replacing rod ends that are stretched and wobbly or straight break in half. Now, it has developed wobble in the aluminum itself where the M3 stud goes in.

Thinking about drilling it out and tapping some M4 holes hoping it would stand up to abuse better. Or should I just cut my losses and go for the one piece Vanquish arms. Anybody ever bent those?

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Re: Trailing arm woes
 

My VP arms are as old as the hills and don't look breakable from normal usage.

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

I also use the SSD trailing arms. No issues, broke the rods only one time in a hugh Impact on a bad landing. I use the HD rods. If you change the rods did you locktide the Set screw?
And if changing did you Just screw the new one in or did you screw the Set screw out mount the rod to it and then reassamble?

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Re: Trailing arm woes
 

Didn't think loctite was necessary because I don't see how the studs could back out. Also, the hex would be in the aluminum arm and I wouldn't be able to get it out.

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Re: Trailing arm woes
 

i guess the set screw gets loose during the drives which kills your rods. cause every bump, corner aso. there's force on the rod and if the set screw isn't locktide it can move and get loose. even with out the hex you can get out the set screw - use a plier and something to protect the tread (towel or so).

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

I've had zero issues with my VP arms. I just put new pivot balls in mine and cleaned the dust out.

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

Yea, you're probably right. I do also tend to put more of the threads into the rod end in hopes to break them less, which it does seem to help. I just would have guessed that I had enough threads going into the aluminum arm to not move around.

I have some M3 threaded rod that I may make some longer studs with.

Then I'll probably buy the VP ones like everyone keeps recommending.

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

I broke both rod ends off one of my SSD trailing arms in one crash against a tree going about 20mph lol. One end broke off in such a bad way I just put the arm on the shelf :cry:

I don't think you put it together wrong its just in the design of the arm that it breaks there because the actual body of the trailing arm is strong as hell the ends are the only place it could break. I like the stock design where its one piece, but in aluminum..not sure if anyone makes one like that but there are lots of options as mentioned above

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

I don't have the SSD ones but I do have VP and BM. I'm not crazy over the VP one piece because one has quite of wear on one end, even with a new ball on it. I like the BM because I can easily replace the Traxxas ends (4mm).

I would take the SSD ones and mod the ends to take 4mm rods, lock tie them with the hex out, but with enough length to have good penetration in both ends

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Re: Trailing arm woes
 

Well I made some longer studs to thread into the aluminum body and rod ends further. I smothered everything in blue loctite, but my servo died before I had a chance to break anything. It's always something.

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Re: Trailing arm woes
 

I ordered 3x25 set screws and 4x25 set screws from McMaster-carr. If I keep having issues, I'll most likely drill out the arms and tap them for the 4mm screws. I've only broken one rod end. Twice. Lol.

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

I had some M3 rod from McMaster-Carr that I made mine from. Just cut some with dremel.

I need to get a M4 tap so I can try the Revo rod ends.

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Re: Trailing arm woes
 

You'll likely need the longer Jato or drill out the SSD HD rods. They are longer than Revo ends to fit into the arm pockets.

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

Your not the only one lol. I installed mine yesterday. First trail run today I broke one end in half and stretched one end until it popped around the ball. These are the "HD" ends they sell now.
Pretty dissappointed. I am trying some traxxas ends I had laying around and also ordered some yeah racing aluminum rod ends from china. If the traxxas ends break I will just go with vanquish. When the yr alum ends get here I may give them another shot.

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

I had some Hot Racing Twin Hammers arms on my short wheelbase Yeti TT. They had aluminum ends on them. Eventually, they became oval and got too much slop to use. Started using traxxas rod ends on there, too.

Need someone to start making titanium ones.

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Re: Trailing arm woes
 

JEC SS trailing arms, with frenched rod-ends - incredible...

https://supershafty.com/products/sup...i-score-bomber

Also available direct from JEC with custom engraving...

Edit: they now carry Alloy versions for $15 less, in multiple color options:

https://supershafty.com/collections/...i-score-bomber

I like the SS for the slipperiness on rocks, myself -- but I'm sure the Alloy are lighter.

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

Shame the SS ones are never in stock. Super expensive, too.

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Re: Trailing arm woes
 

i have the VP no complaints here.
but those SS units are looking tasty...

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

The SS versions will last forever......... LOLz

But, at $65 JEC SS vs $50 JEC 7075 vs $45 VP vs $35 SSD, I realized the difference when making my purchase - I do also have a set of SSD for my second Bomber build.

It's going to be the lighter of the two, using a Xtreme Racing chassis rail kit conversion for the Bomber, 1.9" wheels/tires, and most of the leftover RR10 kit parts (since I've got most everything upgraded from stock).

I'm sure the Alloys will outlast any other alloy version - BTW, they are 7075 aluminum, stronger and tougher than 6061.

Re: Trailing arm woes
 

Stay away from aluminum rod ends. There garbage and get really sloppy. Try revo rod ends but if you break those, rpm makes replacement ones that are thicker and stronger and you should be good after that.

Also, while SS slides good, so does 7075.