Duke got a Yeti

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

first i would sleeve the hinge pins.

soooo, as I was removing my front A arms to do the steering upgrades, I noticed they were fairly difficult to remove... once I got them removed, I quickly figured out what you guys were talking about. My hinge pins have more waves than a hurricane ridden ocean. So, lets talk more about this "sleeve the hinge pins" mod before I go and order myself some metal concepts front a arms.

[mikemcE]

3/16 SS tube. Drill out RPM or stock a arms. Cut tube to length(ear to ear)
Install as stock with new pins. I've run mine for 8 months, straight stock pins.



Hang up and Drive

[magic_yeti]

Out of my build thread:

Bend the hinge Pin and the Alu Steering Link

The hinge Pinis bending cause theres no help between the A-Arm. So i made a sleeve for between.
Using a 4mm and 5mm Alutube


i did it without drilling and it works also, i didn't like to drill cause in my eyes it could weaken the plastic.

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

3/16 SS tube. Drill out RPM or stock a arms. Cut tube to length(ear to ear)
Install as stock with new pins. I've run mine for 8 months, straight stock pins.



Hang up and Drive

ended up finding that shortly after, also links for some McMaster carr black oxide hardened Pins.

[DukeMinnix]

so, next question. When I changed to all aluminum steering knuckles and castor blocks, I went ahead and put in brass kingpins, for lack of a better term, they aren't exactly, but close. Well, when I tighten the set screws down, they didn't want to turn hardly at all, I felt like my servo was going to have to strain harder than necessary, so I backed the set screw off a little. Well, apparently that wasn't the correct thing to do because they backed out all the way moonwalk style and left the building, along with both my lower kingpins. Whats the preferred method there? little dab of Loctite and not tighten all the way down or what?

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

Out of my build thread:

Bend the hinge Pin and the Alu Steering Link

The hinge Pinis bending cause theres no help between the A-Arm. So i made a sleeve for between.
Using a 4mm and 5mm Alutube


i did it without drilling and it works also, i didn't like to drill cause in my eyes it could weaken the plastic.

I ordered a 25 count package of the McMaster carr bolt set, so I should have plenty for a while, but I'm gonna look into sleeving also. Looking like aluminum A arms may be unwise and put increased strain on the bulkhead, which I don't want, so may just get some of the RPM arms and sleeve them and the stock ones as back up and create an easily serviced and replaced weak spot.

[magic_yeti]

Originally Posted by DukeMinnix

so, next question. When I changed to all aluminum steering knuckles and castor blocks, I went ahead and put in brass kingpins, for lack of a better term, they aren't exactly, but close. Well, when I tighten the set screws down, they didn't want to turn hardly at all, I felt like my servo was going to have to strain harder than necessary, so I backed the set screw off a little. Well, apparently that wasn't the correct thing to do because they backed out all the way moonwalk style and left the building, along with both my lower kingpins. Whats the preferred method there? little dab of Loctite and not tighten all the way down or what?

get the correct pins if you don't like stock how about these Axial YETI & EXO Steering King Pin (TiN Coated) (2pcs) and loctide the set screw (i always use loctide if screwing into metal and a liitle silicon grease if screwing into plastic ).
I tide the set screw down till it touch the pin and then unscrew a little bit till it moves freely each pin single wise, the org pin has a small notch where the set screw holds the pin (as you can see in the link).

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

get the correct pins if you don't like stock how about these Axial YETI & EXO Steering King Pin (TiN Coated) (2pcs) and loctide the set screw (i always use loctide if screwing into metal and a liitle silicon grease if screwing into plastic ).
I tide the set screw down till it touch the pin and then unscrew a little bit till it moves freely each pin single wise, the org pin has a small notch where the set screw holds the pin (as you can see in the link).

Those are actually the exact ones I got, guess I assumed brass because of the color but that's them, from rpp actually.

[DukeMinnix]

Put new kingpins and set screws in... didn't make it through a 3s 3300mah battery before my steering knuckle came apart again, kingpins and set screws nowhere to be found. Worked themselves out even with Loctite... Didn't have the vibration formula so used the heat formula. Lesson learned.

[DukeMinnix]

I appreciate all the help and guidance I've attained here. Sneak peak for the upcoming build.

[magic_yeti]

Gesendet von meinem T1-A21L mit Tapatalk

[DukeMinnix]

Not finished with the body yet obviously, but wanted to show its still being worked on. I've leaned toward 1.9s on this. Its never going to be a crawler and not really a basher, it's gonna run around the yard. I have crawlers and bashers. I think the 1.9s look good with this build. I've considered going with staggered 2.2s in the back and 1.9s in the front and trying for a buggy type look, but I can't find definitive information as to whether thats possible or not, so I haven't. Anyways, just another sneak peak and current progress pic.

[DukeMinnix]

had few minutes several days in a row to make some steps toward a final body look... I'm not sold, but ehh, it is what it is...

[DukeMinnix]

Got the body on. 2.2s look way to big for what I'm going for, the 1.9 Treps look tiny on it... I'm gonna have to find a low 5ish inch tall tire to make it look right I think... or figure out a way to get the front track width narrower by a significant amount.

[wcdfmt510]

Originally Posted by CoolRunning

The Yeti is very slow on 2S but is pretty much right on 3S. Doesn't need to go faster than this for rock racing and it's reliable once modified. Doesn't need too much but it definitely needs a full set of metal links.

Im running my yeti on 100c 3s with stock spur and Robinson racing 18t pinion. Up from 15t(i believe) it will wheelie from a slow roll. Its been on its lid dozens of times

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

[DukeMinnix]

Good friend of mine wanted a yeti and made me an offer I couldn't refuse for mine, but he wanted the stock body panels back on it and normal race car driver heads. Repurposed the heads into my bomber MJ truggy, but still have the yeti body if any of you yeti guys are looking for something like that. Shoot me a PM, its listed in the wanted section up for trades.