Duke got a Yeti

[DukeMinnix]

Welp, my sickness continues....

What started as a scx10 has now grown into a stable...

Wroncho, AX10 Ridgecrest, Bomber, Custom Tube Wraith based truggy... and now a Yeti 380 1/10... since June...

It started life as an RTR I believe...

As I got it, has the 3150kv Vanguard system, Proline beadlocks with r35 compound bajas with dual stage foams, Proline shocks front and rear, proline lightbar with a gearhead roofrack. RC4WD center rear housing with stock diff. Hot racing castor blocks and steering knuckles got thrown in yesterday. It's a blast with 35c 2s batteries in comparison to some of the others, but no faster than my roc412 powered bomber, but infinitely more stable.

First question for the yeti thread... I have a 5700 kv 4 pole castle brushless motor... What kind of animal would this thing become with that?
I will not ever be crawling the yeti, trailing and bashing exclusive, I have lots of trail trucks.

[DavidH]

I suspect that the 5700kv motor will be overheated and overwhelmed by the weight of the yeti. Try a 3s battery with the stock motor before you change the motor out.

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by DavidH

I suspect that the 5700kv motor will be overheated and overwhelmed by the weight of the yeti. Try a 3s battery with the stock motor before you change the motor out.

I wondered because its designed for buggies and rwd stadium trucks, but I had it laying around so thought what the hell.

[Shinchu]

mine is also a used RTR (with tons of upgrades) still running stock electronics. I run it on 20c 3S all day and I have never had a problem. well it hit thermal cutoff last weekend but it was super hot and going slow over huge rocks didn't help. lots of hard throttling and not much movement lol

but yeah 3s will REALLY wake it up!

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

mine is also a used RTR (with tons of upgrades) still running stock electronics. I run it on 20c 3S all day and I have never had a problem. well it hit thermal cutoff last weekend but it was super hot and going slow over huge rocks didn't help. lots of hard throttling and not much movement lol

but yeah 3s will REALLY wake it up!

I threw a 40c 3s in it this morning when I had the dogs out to Pee before work... holy shit, that thing is insane. It'll pick the front off the ground with ease... its nuts

[CoolRunning]

The Yeti is very slow on 2S but is pretty much right on 3S. Doesn't need to go faster than this for rock racing and it's reliable once modified. Doesn't need too much but it definitely needs a full set of metal links.

[CoolRunning]

I would be careful of running a Yeti on the road. If you do some reading, it seems that many guys have major mechanical issues with them with lots of power on high traction surfaces. On dirt mine has take an amazing amount of thrashing without blinking an eye, but there are loads of stories with snapped axles and chewed up gears and spurs and links being bent or ripped out etc when running on high traction surfaces. Anything that can make it do a wheel stand is likely going to cause problems quickly unfortunately...at least without some expensive, overbuilt CNC bits anyway!

Wet roads seem great though; it's a great drift machine in the wet!

[DukeMinnix]

Some pictures as she sits, I had a set of VP methods with CI foam and Rock Beast IIs sitting, so on they went. The Bajas and proline beadlocks didn't cooperate and kept debeading. Anyhow, enjoy the pics, I'm all ears for needed upgrades. Its going to get trailing arms and uppers donated from the bomber I'm decommissioning. I would like to strengthen the front end up without making it even more nose heavy than it already is. I also am all ears on tuning the castor and camber. It seems off.

[DukeMinnix]

destroyed one of the bell cranks today jumping and thrashing, guess I'll get an order for those in haha

[magic_yeti]

first i would sleeve the hinge pins. next would be changing the font chamber and steering links to the kit steel adj. will test next days with the new traxxas trx-4 rods.

It looks like a rtr so consider some hd gears for the front and rear diff.

also i would change to ssd trailing arms and upper links in the rear.

otherwise you will see what breaks.

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

first i would sleeve the hinge pins. next would be changing the font chamber and steering links to the kit steel adj. will test next days with the new traxxas trx-4 rods.

It looks like a rtr so consider some hd gears for the front and rear diff.

also i would change to ssd trailing arms and upper links in the rear.

otherwise you will see what breaks.

Already put steering knuckles and castor blocks on it. Rear has centered metal housing, so no idea on the gears or shafts in it, we'll see where we are if something breaks, trailing arms its getting vanquish stuff donated from the bomber I'm decommissioning. First order of business is to get it back on the road by doing steering pins, bellcranks, and the rack from vanquish, along with front links I think. I can do all that for less than a bill.

[magic_yeti]

Don't forget to sleeve the hinge pin

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[shiftauto]

You might look another direction for the steering rack. The VP is nice but loses the servo saver and on a basher the weight of the yeti, it's a good idea to keep it. I went with an STRC rack/bellcrank/saver. You can ditch the front plastic steering links and camber links for cheap with traxxas turnbuckles, revo, and jato rodends. Start looking into driveshaft options also. 3S can spin the stock shaft pretty easily, I use MIP. Be ready to replace the servo if it's still running the rtr one.

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by shiftauto

You might look another direction for the steering rack. The VP is nice but loses the servo saver and on a basher the weight of the yeti, it's a good idea to keep it. I went with an STRC rack/bellcrank/saver. You can ditch the front plastic steering links and camber links for cheap with traxxas turnbuckles, revo, and jato rodends. Start looking into driveshaft options also. 3S can spin the stock shaft pretty easily, I use MIP. Be ready to replace the servo if it's still running the rtr one.

I'll look into that rack setup for sure. I had read where the elimination of the bellcrank got rid of A LOT of the steering slop these things have, but what I didn't pay attention to is what type of usage that review was getting, mine will most certainly be jumped and beaten and bashed, I crawl with others, so I'm leaning toward agreeing with you a little slop is worth some give in the system somewhere. Next question I have for you, Same shocks as you, looking to be very similar in weight when everything is said and done, I'm thinking 30wt up front and 40wt rear for shock oil? Gimme some feedback.

[shiftauto]

Shock oils tend to be terrain and driving style based. I had my setup dialed in pretty good before the rebuild but am trying some stiffer oil because a friend of mine is positive it's going to be better. I'm skeptical, only one way to find out. I ran 45/30 combo for months with good results. I'm basically doubling down on the weights with a 70/60 combo this time around while also messing with the rear upper link locations to see how it does. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to get my rig out since the rebuild...it needs an outdoor photo shoot before it reclaims the used and abused look.

[magic_yeti]

HR also have an adj. version.

I have 700cst Front 500cst rear which ist approx 60wt/40wt.

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[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

HR also have an adj. version.

I have 700cst Front 500cst rear which ist approx 60wt/40wt.

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roger that, thank you



so for all you Yeti guys, when/if this castle/axial motor gives up the ghost, what is the go to for all around good running yeti. I really enjoy the way this thing runs, It's right on the edge of being uncontrollable fast. I have a roc412 laying around doing nothing, but I don't feel like that's a good choice for this.

[magic_yeti]

i love my mmx 1410 3800kv combo 5mm but also nice the hh puller xl 3500kv. many options

[DavidH]

Originally Posted by DukeMinnix

roger that, thank you



so for all you Yeti guys, when/if this castle/axial motor gives up the ghost, what is the go to for all around good running yeti. I really enjoy the way this thing runs, It's right on the edge of being uncontrollable fast. I have a roc412 laying around doing nothing, but I don't feel like that's a good choice for this.

The factory castle motor will probably give you all the speed that the chassis can handle on dirt and gravel. You could go up a few teeth on the pinion to get a bit more speed, but I would strongly recommend both a fan on the motor and a change to a more capable ESC. The factory unit will thermal (or worse) if you push it too hard.

Get a Mamba X, and then you'll be ready for a sensored motor if and when you want to change out the factory motor.

[DukeMinnix]

Originally Posted by DavidH

The factory castle motor will probably give you all the speed that the chassis can handle on dirt and gravel. You could go up a few teeth on the pinion to get a bit more speed, but I would strongly recommend both a fan on the motor and a change to a more capable ESC. The factory unit will thermal (or worse) if you push it too hard.

Get a Mamba X, and then you'll be ready for a sensored motor if and when you want to change out the factory motor.

I like the mamba series, heard great things about the mamba X, although I don't own one yet. I have a mmp in my bomber with a roc412 and another going in a custom truggy I'm building. I don't plan to change stock motor and esc until I have to. This is the fun bashing truck. I'll strengthen what breaks and keep on beatin.... although, I am going to do a mini theme build with it, stay tuned for a new thread when all the stuff for it arrives