A noob question

[TheGatorRC]

This is my first scale build with a yeti tt, I know there's tons of motor/esc posts..ect. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the maclan mx550 diamondback combo?

Secondly, what do I need to look at volt wise if I'm going to be running lights. I YouTubed (yeah I'm one of those ) a bunch of set ups and it looks like its pretty much plug and play for the most part. Does the Amps on the esc need to be a certain amount? Thank you.

[Teng]

Try to search here to improve your knowledge RCCrawler General Tech - Electronics at RCCrawler.com

[Phaeton]

I drive my Yeti with stock motor, servo and ESC. Lots of body modifications, including eight led's. Four white up front and two orange and two red in the bar under the roof facing backwards.

Lights can be switched on and off on my tx and what I noticed running with all lights on and at full speed, the Yeti suffers from brown-outs. Probably the servo is working hard to keep the wheels straight and therefore the amp draw from servo and led's together is just too much for the BEC in the ESC. Don't underestimate the need for Amps by led's anyway.

What I always do, both with my planes, self-build drones and cars, is adding a separate/dedicated BEC. And since it has to be quality, light an small (all especially for flying stuff), I use Pololu voltage regulators.

Since I added a 5A step-down regulator to the Yeti, no brown outs anymore.

https://www.pololu.com/product/2851

There are two ways to wire the Pololu:
- Dedicated for the servo, bypassing the rx
- Powering everything, including the rx

I do the latter.

Edit: Just looked at the Maclan ESC. A 5A BEC in it, should be enough. But it all looks a bit overkill to me and the motor is only rated for 2s...

Yvo

Originally Posted by TheGatorRC

This is my first scale build with a yeti tt, I know there's tons of motor/esc posts..ect. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the maclan mx550 diamondback combo?

Secondly, what do I need to look at volt wise if I'm going to be running lights. I YouTubed (yeah I'm one of those ) a bunch of set ups and it looks like its pretty much plug and play for the most part. Does the Amps on the esc need to be a certain amount? Thank you.

[TheGatorRC]

Originally Posted by Phaeton

I drive my Yeti with stock motor, servo and ESC. Lots of body modifications, including eight led's. Four white up front and two orange and two red in the bar under the roof facing backwards.

Lights can be switched on and off on my tx and what I noticed running with all lights on and at full speed, the Yeti suffers from brown-outs. Probably the servo is working hard to keep the wheels straight and therefore the amp draw from servo and led's together is just too much for the BEC in the ESC. Don't underestimate the need for Amps by led's anyway.

What I always do, both with my planes, self-build drones and cars, is adding a separate/dedicated BEC. And since it has to be quality, light an small (all especially for flying stuff), I use Pololu voltage regulators.

Since I added a 5A step-down regulator to the Yeti, no brown outs anymore.

https://www.pololu.com/product/2851

There are two ways to wire the Pololu:
- Dedicated for the servo, bypassing the rx
- Powering everything, including the rx

I do the latter.

Edit: Just looked at the Maclan ESC. A 5A BEC in it, should be enough. But it all looks a bit overkill to me and the motor is only rated for 2s...

Yvo

Thanks for the info. I looked up the page the guy above posted but was kind of like a deer in headlights. I'll keep searching and reading, but this is what I was curious about. Thank you.

I looked up the maclan motors the MX4150kv is 2s only, but the 3500kv is 2-3s. Contacted them as well just to double check a few other questions. I figured 120A was probably more than enough, but my last rc was a talion, so I was kinda going off what I learned from that platform.

[Phaeton]

My advice would be stick to the stock setup for now, add a few lights and a separate 5A BEC and take it from there. And when you are going to use the Yeti for jumps, replace the rear trailing arms by aluminium ones. The "plastic" stock ones tend to knick.

I know myself, eventually I change everything on my rc gear, up to electronics and motors, but didn't do that with the Yeti yet. I am pretty pleased with the stock motor.

Perhaps save on the Maclan combo and invest in a better servo. Because when you improve one thing (stronger motor for instance), another weakness will pop up and you have to fix that. Drive shafts, inner and outer, spur gear, and so on.

And comes to mind: Replacing one or two items is short time fun. Perhaps consider playing with a better suspension setup. Much more fun to do and bigger pay-off. And cheap. Took me a considerable time to find the best suspension and shock setup (springs and oil) for my type of driving (trails), but the car wobbles away every bump and hole nicely now. And is a superb drifter.

Pictures attached for inspiration purposes

Oh, and a quote from another post I did here somewhere: "The stock drive shafts tend to pop out of the cups (wheel side) when the suspension is maxed down and wheel pointing to far outwards (when steering and hitting a rock or similar). So replaced them with GPM Racing CVD's."

Yvo


.

Originally Posted by TheGatorRC

Thanks for the info. I looked up the page the guy above posted but was kind of like a deer in headlights. I'll keep searching and reading, but this is what I was curious about. Thank you.

I looked up the maclan motors the MX4150kv is 2s only, but the 3500kv is 2-3s. Contacted them as well just to double check a few other questions. I figured 120A was probably more than enough, but my last rc was a talion, so I was kinda going off what I learned from that platform.

[TheGatorRC]

Originally Posted by Phaeton

My advice would be stick to the stock setup for now, add a few lights and a separate 5A BEC and take it from there. And when you are going to use the Yeti for jumps, replace th9e rear trailing arms by aluminium ones. The "plastic" stock ones tend to knick.

I .

I know myself, eventually I change everything on my rc gear, up to electronics and motors, but didn't do that with the Yeti yet. I am pretty pleased with the stock motor.

Perhaps save on the Maclan combo and invest in a better servo. Because when you improve one thing (stronger motor for instance), another weakness will pop up and you have to fix that. Drive shafts, inner and outer, spur gear, and so on.

And comes to mind: Replacing one or two items is short time fun. Perhaps consider playing with a better suspension setup. Much more fun to do and bigger pay-off. And cheap. Took me a considerable time to find the best suspension and shock setup (springs and oil) for my type of driving (trails), but the car wobbles away every bump and hole nicely now. And is a superb drifter.

Pictures attached for inspiration purposes

Oh, and a quote from another post I did here somewhere: "The stock drive shafts tend to pop out of the cups (wheel side) when the suspension is maxed down and wheel pointing to far outwards (when steering and hitting a rock or similar). So replaced them with GPM Racing CVD's."

Yvo


.

That's a nice looking rig!!. Do they make a full roll cage for the TT?

I bought the score kit, that is why I'm looking at motors other than stock. I found a savox servo the sw0230...I think that's the number. I'll be running mostly on fast trails and sands(4 wheeler trails). I'll be upgrading the plastic rear end shortly. I won't be bashing this, did that with my talion and had to replace one part after another. I just want to get it up and running and then upgrade everything else.

Also found a cc for 1/8 think its 2200kv with a sidewinder 90a esc...?? For the same price($160). Realize that's probably way overkill on the motor/torque, too much for stock plastic drive shaft.

[magic_yeti]

Welcome to the yeti club

The Driveshafts are very reliable no issues even with my old combo Monster X CC1410 3800kv or the new setup with the HH 540R 4100KV. But i broke the plastic method wheels.

The kit came with CVD's already so no need for the GPM CVD's.
I don't have the score but i think it needs the same upgrades at the beginning as the RR:
To beef up the Rear i would get some beeftubes and metal upperlinks, sleeve the hingepins on the A-Arms, get some better foams for the tires and a metal motor mount.
I won't recommend the savöx0231 as steering servo is a little on the weak site, i use the savöx1210sg as steering servo in my little monster.

[TheGatorRC]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

Welcome to the yeti club

The Driveshafts are very reliable no issues even with my old combo Monster X CC1410 3800kv or the new setup with the HH 540R 4100KV. But i broke the plastic method wheels.

The kit came with CVD's already so no need for the GPM CVD's.
I don't have the score but i think it needs the same upgrades at the beginning as the RR:
To beef up the Rear i would get some beeftubes and metal upperlinks, sleeve the hingepins on the A-Arms, get some better foams for the tires and a metal motor mount.
I won't recommend the savöx0231 as steering servo is a little on the weak site, i use the savöx1210sg as steering servo in my little monster.

How do you go about sleeving the hingepins?

I have found some hot racing parts I'm waiting to order when the kit gets here(motor mount being one of them). How is the steering "rack"? Thought about getting the HR carbon fiber looking one.

I'll look at the 1210sg. Is that splashproof or anything? I also found an Ecopower on amains website, are those any good?

I'm definitely going to save up and get some aluminum beadlocks after everything else is taken care of. Drivinpro or drivepro something like that makes a 2.2 3.0 BL so I thought about buying those in a few months.

[magic_yeti]

The hinge Pins bending cause there's no help between the A-Arm. So i made a sleeve for between. Quote from my build thread
Using a 4mm and 5mm Alutube



The 1210SG is rated IP67 so its submergable mine was many times love driving throu water


I use the adj. version of the Hot Racing steering and i'm very pleased with it. But that's not a necessary upgrade right at the start if budget is close.

[Phaeton]

All in all decent empty-wallet-technology and ditto after market parts available for this hobby

And good remark about the hinge pins. Forgot all about it since I use steel ones, but the initial pins didn't last long...

Yvo


.

[TheGatorRC]

Originally Posted by magic_yeti

The hinge Pins bending cause there's no help between the A-Arm. So i made a sleeve for between. Quote from my build thread
Using a 4mm and 5mm Alutube



The 1210SG is rated IP67 so its submergable mine was many times love driving throu water


I use the adj. version of the Hot Racing steering and i'm very pleased with it. But that's not a necessary upgrade right at the start if budget is close.

I'll have to check your build thread out and see if I can't find some tubing. Thanks again, I will try to remember to take some build pics and make a thread.

[mikemcE]

I run a full raptor body over the yeti cage. Has the look


Hang up and Drive

[TheGatorRC]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

I run a full raptor body over the yeti cage. Has the look


Hang up and Drive

That looks cool!! Is that the proline body made for the yeti score is a different one?

[mikemcE]

This is ProLine’s for the yeti, not the score. The wheels are tucked in on the score version



Hang up and Drive

[TheGatorRC]

I thought it looked different. I didn't know they made two different ones for the score and for the yeti. My son zoomed in and seen the skull heads and he thought that was pretty much the coolest thing he'd ever seen.

[mikemcE]

Those are on the stock yeti parts tree


Hang up and Drive

[TheGatorRC]

I know theres lots of opinions about how much grease to use, but there is a tiny tube of grease in the score build kit. According to the directions the only things that are greased are the diff gears and the axle gears. Do the bearings that the rear drive shafts fit into need to be greased as well?

[Jim85IROC]

Generally you don't grease these tiny bearings. They have a metal (or in some cases rubber) shield that will make it virtually impossible to get grease into them anyway. They are already oiled, and that should more or less be all you need.

Sometimes I've blown bearings out with brake cleaner and then squirted some thin oil back into them, but getting grease in there isn't really feasible.

[mikemcE]

You can wipe a film over them for rust protection, but more grease attracts dirt.


Hang up and Drive

[TheGatorRC]

Okay, I've got my motor and esc a few days ago, I found out the shaft is 5mm but it's a few mm shorter in length. How much of the pinion gear needs to be on the shaft? I get about half way on the spur gear when the motor shaft is about half way on the 17t pinion gear. Will that be okay or do I need a different motor with a longer shaft? Thank you.