**AX10/SCX10 Housing Splined Burly Tubes**

[RcBro]

Our tubes will achive XR10 hex to hex width which is 10.2"
A wraith hex to hex width is 11.22"

Hopefully this helps you.

[Jeff@TireBalls]

Originally Posted by RcBro

Our tubes will achive XR10 hex to hex width which is 10.2"
A wraith hex to hex width is 11.22"

Hopefully this helps you.

That's exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you!

[BuckImod]

when will these be back in stock?

[Steamer]

I just checked at His website RcBros.com

He shows both the Brass and Al. Burly Tubes as in stock! and on sale.

Hope it's right Mike.

[RcBro]

Yes, on the website. Lmk if u have issues


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BuckImod]

ahh, I see now. I didn't see the add to cart button before. It pops after you select options, I didn't choose an anodizing option before.

[muddywaters]

Just ordered me a **AX10/SCX10 Housing Splined Burly Tube for my front axle and will be ordering another one next week for the rear axle. Looking forward to getting this mod done...

[brighty]

Have you guys thought about making tie rods to suit each style burly tube mod?? One for the long burly tubes and one for the shorter ones??

Im sure there's be plenty of takers

[ProjectSCX10]

I'm still lost on the stock width tubes.... I know the axle housing needs cut., but do the tubes come ready to be installed and bolt in or do they need tapping? Install pics of the production stock width tubes would be awesome!

[RcBro]

Originally Posted by brighty

Have you guys thought about making tie rods to suit each style burly tube mod?? One for the long burly tubes and one for the shorter ones??

Im sure there's be plenty of takers

A VP 160mm Ti tie rod and a 85mm drag link seem to be the ticket. Sadly Ti is expensive for us small vendors and the price would be to high for all of us.

Originally Posted by ProjectSCX10

I'm still lost on the stock width tubes.... I know the axle housing needs cut., but do the tubes come ready to be installed and bolt in or do they need tapping? Install pics of the production stock width tubes would be awesome!

Still need drilled and tapped. See below

Originally Posted by RcBro

Alright, for those guys wanting a 7075 burly tube but want to retain your stock width, here's what you need to do.

First cut 12mm off your burly tube.


Then cut your axle halves flush with the link mounts. At this point your burly tube fits right in.


You will still need to drill and tap the burly tube, but now you have a killer burly tube upgrade.

[kmas]

Would it be bad to lathe out my tubes to install the excluded bearing?

[RcBro]

You will significanly weaken the area where the spline section is when opening up this hole. A universal does not spin in a perfect circle. With a bearing in its place you will consitantly see the bearing breaking over time. For this reason we choose to not open the pocket up. Strength is key! Our berg tubes have been cut this way and its proven to be a success.

[kmas]

I'm not trying to be a dink but my wraith doesn't have issues with that bearing, isn't it the same principal? I understand that it will weaken the tube but with a bearing in there and the new vp clamping chubs I should get some backing strength from the od of the bearing....I'm just wondering, not trying to be argumentative, pls don't take me this way

[kmas]

I don't want dirt in my housing and I don't want to prematurely wear my locker from any wobble. What about a broonze or plastic bushing turned down?

[RcBro]

I understand the reasoning behind wanting a bearing, however I cannot warranty the prouduct once its been machined. I have had a few customers choose to insert a plastic bushing.

There is a compromise with having our tubes snap in fit versus having to modify the housing. We are left with less overall material which is why we choose 7075 and kept the bearing out. I also live in the NW and understand water and mud is a constant thing we run into. With or Without a bearing water will enter the housing at some point, so I do encourage checking these things from time to time.

I will look into including an optional bushing.

[kmas]

Thx, for the info, I'm going to turn down some bronze bushings and leave the tube alone

[G6ER]

I'm interested in the stock width tubes, one question. Without the collar how does the axle housing not separate like with the collar? What would be the cost to have you assemble an axle for me?

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by RcBro

You will significanly weaken the area where the spline section is when opening up this hole. A universal does not spin in a perfect circle. With a bearing in its place you will consitantly see the bearing breaking over time. For this reason we choose to not open the pocket up. Strength is key! Our berg tubes have been cut this way and its proven to be a success.

Cars and RCs have been using them for years with a bearing on both sides. When does it not spin in a perfect circle?

Originally Posted by RcBro

I understand the reasoning behind wanting a bearing, however I cannot warranty the prouduct once its been machined. I have had a few customers choose to insert a plastic bushing.

There is a compromise with having our tubes snap in fit versus having to modify the housing. We are left with less overall material which is why we choose 7075 and kept the bearing out. I also live in the NW and understand water and mud is a constant thing we run into. With or Without a bearing water will enter the housing at some point, so I do encourage checking these things from time to time.

I will look into including an optional bushing.

Steel would fix that weakness and allow the bearing pocket. Water, dirt and mud enter the housing much faster when there's no bearing or seal there.

[kmas]

I turned down some traxxas bushings popped them in and assembled, no binding. Plus I didn't weaken the tube by machining it. the tubes definitely beef up the axle.

[RcBro]

Good to hear it! Our next batch I'll see what I can do on adding the bearing pocket.