DravTech presents... The Wrapter for the Gmade R1 Portal Axles

[Dravpnir]

DravTech presents...

The Wrapter for the Gmade R1 Portal Axles


Tired of the bad steering angle on the stock portal axles on your Gmade R1 Rock crawler? Then the Wrapter is something for you!

The Wrapter allows you to use Axial Wraith/XR10 c-hubs, knuckls and universals for the portal axles.


The Wrapter is only available through the DravTech store at Shapeways.

The following prices are for a pair of Wrapters

White - $18
Black - $21
Polished white - $19.5
Polished purple - $19.5
Polished blue - $19.5
Polished red - $19.5
Polished pink - $19.5

[Dravpnir]

Modification of the universals

The portal gears require a shaft diameter of 5 mm and the Axial universals only have a diameter of 4 mm. So you have to start by glueing on a tube to increase the outer diameter to 5 mm.




I used the Loctite 648 as glue and an aluminum tube from K&S. It might be better to use a harder metal for the tube, but I had this on at home.




Cut of the drive shaft 34 mm from the large flat surface on the universal, when the glue has fully cured.




Then you get a piece that look something like this.




Next step is to grind the flat area that the portal gears require. I used a vise and a hand file and slowly grinded away material. You want the shaft to be as tight as possible in the gears, so go slowly and try the fitment before grinding off more material.
The flat area should be 14 mm long and to fit my gears I filed away slightly under 1 mm of material.




Mounted up with the Wrapter, c-hub and universals it should look like this

[Dravpnir]

Installation on the portal axles

You will need:
1 pair of Wrapters
1 pair of c-hubs for the Axial Wraith or XR10
1 pair of knuckles for the Axial Wraith or XR10
1 set of modified universals
4 5x8x2.5 mm bearings
2 5x11x4 mm bearing
4 16 mm long M3 screws
4 15 mm long M3 counter sunk screws
8 M3 nylon locknuts
4 6 mm long M3 screws
4 10 mm long M3 screws

I only use the Wraith knuckle from Vanquish Products and if you use them you also need to get

2 5x11x4 mm bearings
2 10x15x4 mm bearings
1 set of Axial Flange Pipe (AXI30450)



Start by adding the small bearings on the backside of the Wrapter, then the larger on in the splines.






Mount it to the axles with the M3 screws and nuts




Put on the c-hub, but not all the way in. Determine the amount of caster you want then push the c-hub all the way in.
The splines are conical and the fitment when the c-hub is all the way in is quite tight. You might have to put the Wrapter and c-hub in the freezer for about 30 min to be able to pull them apart if you put on the c-hub all the way.




Put in the drive shaft and screw on the knuckles using the 10 mm long M3 screws.




Drill two 2.5 mm diameter holes (one on top and one on the bottom) in the Wrapters and use the 6 mm long M3 screws to secure the c-hub to the Wrapter. Use a screw with sharp threads to make the threads in the Wrapter instead of using a thread tap.

[noname0383]

Hey pal, do u have the exact link of the K&S tube u use?

And in the list of stuff u need, is this the stock bearing or do I need new one?

[frdtrkguy]

So, all of the torque is transferred through a piece of glued on tubing? Or am I missing something?

[doublej]

So what does this put the total hub to hub measurement at?

[Dravpnir]

Originally Posted by noname0383

Hey pal, do u have the exact link of the K&S tube u use?

And in the list of stuff u need, is this the stock bearing or do I need new one?

The K&S tube is the 9804. You can find it at towerhobbies.com

The 5x8x2.5 mm and 5x11x4 mm bearings is the same as the stock ones.

Originally Posted by frdtrkguy

So, all of the torque is transferred through a piece of glued on tubing? Or am I missing something?

The pipe is only there to keep the shaft in center of the portal gear and bearings. The torque is transfered through the flat spot you grind in the axle shaft. You will grind through the tube and into the "real" axle shaft.
If you look closely on the picture of my grinded shaft you can see a color shift. At the edges it is the aluminum and in the middle the steel part from the universal shaft.

Originally Posted by doublej

So what does this put the total hub to hub measurement at?

The distance between the outer knuckle face to the outer kuckle face is 9.25". This is with Wraith C-hubs and knuckles from Vanquish Products.

[joneail]

what are the axial flange for?

[Dravpnir]

Originally Posted by joneail

what are the axial flange for?

Those are there so you can fasten the knuckle to the c-hub and still be able to turn the knuckle. The Vanquish Wraith knuckle do not come with these parts unfortunately.

[doublej]

It's the bushing (not bearing) for the knuckles.

Question - Why put the knuckle on the end of the portals and not the portals on the end of the knuckles?

You've basically copied the Volvo way of portals vs the Unimog. Just wondering....

[Dravpnir]

I did not design the axles. I have merely redesigned a part of the R1 axles to be able to use Axial parts.

[joneail]

wow your shipping cost is crazy lol. its half of what the item cost lol.

[Honchoforever1]

I got mine in my jeep this weekend

[joneail]

that look sexy man

[noname0383]

Mod done!!!

Now, my problem is the steering link! Exept doing the ''bta'' mod like u did, is it possible to run the steering link in ''normal'' mode!?! Everything seems to be in the way... Any solution...?

[noname0383]

I found the longuest link a had with some Jato rod end... Works pretty well for now but will do a longer custom link later...

[Dravpnir]

Originally Posted by Honchoforever1

I got mine in my jeep this weekend

That looks really sweet! Good job

Originally Posted by noname0383

Mod done!!!

Now, my problem is the steering link! Exept doing the ''bta'' mod like u did, is it possible to run the steering link in ''normal'' mode!?! Everything seems to be in the way... Any solution...?

Originally Posted by noname0383

I found the longuest link a had with some Jato rod end... Works pretty well for now but will do a longer custom link later...

Perhaps it is possible to use the original link with Jato rod ends and make some bends in the ends of the link to clear the axle housing?
I will see if I can find time to dig out my old link and see if I can put something together that will work in normal mode.

[Padapi]

So the axle take 1'' of extra wide vs rear. Extra sterring = need for space to turn those big wheel.