Losi LCC High clearance Titainium Links

[Erik D_lux]

Losi High Clearance Links

The Comp Crawler is notorious for being a belly dragger and having low clearance overall. This has helped the LCC as much as it has hurt the LCC.

I have come up with some Hi-clearance links to help. These are the sickest links possible and will be the last links you will ever need to buy!

• Start to finish, MADE IN U.S.A.

• Lowers are constructed of solid 3/16” Titanium.
  • Titanium will not gouge like Aluminum or Delrin giving the slickest material possible.
  • Titanium is used for ultimate strength.
  • 3/16” rod provides light weight and as much clearance all the way around as possible.
  • More clearance throughout the ENTIRE length of the link, with as much as .625” MORE over stock at the tire. That’s as much as going from a 5.5” tire to a 6.7” tire!

• Uppers are constructed of solid 3/16” Aluminum.
  • Light weight.
  • 3/16” rod provides as much clearance all the way around as possible

• Replacing all your stock links with these will net a 10g weight loss

These are now made to use Revo TRA5347 rod ends on the lowers and TRA1942 rod ends on the uppers. Uppers are 1/8" TI and lowers are 3/16" TI.

• Just as the stock links, these links DO have clearance issues. They have been setup to have maximum clearance at the most ideal situation in order to suit everybody. The amount of clearance depends on the position of your upper link mount on the chassis, amount of shock travel and size of the driveshaft. In all the situations I have seen so far, these links still have more clearance than the stock straight links.

• Must use upgraded 1/8” uppers for the best performance.

• These will be sold in pairs. A pair of lowers, a pair of uppers.
  • Saves you money if you already own a set of 3/16” uppers
  • Buy a piece at a time when you can afford it.
  • Allows you to do only the rear or front if desired.

http://www.dluxfab.com/products

[Erik D_lux]

Stock vs. Bent

[Erik D_lux]

Before:



After:

[Erik D_lux]

Before: 2.054" at the tire


After: 2.67" at the tire

[Erik D_lux]

Edit:

Everything in stock, ready to go

[Erik D_lux]

Up

Thanks for the orders!

[hdgracing]

What type of rod ends can be used on these links??

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by hdgracing

What type of rod ends can be used on these links??

Sorry, I did not see this question.

They are made to be used with Losa6044 rod ends. The same ones that are used on the upper links of the Comp crawler. You can use others but it could throw the wheelbase off. The screw is a 6-32 screw so you could use the stock Comp crawler ends too on a custom application.

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

• Optional tapered bushing kit to extend your wheelbase to just over 12.4”. Comes with bushings for upper and lower links along with longer set screws. Tapered bushing gives a super nice, smooth transition from the link to rod end.

Polished uppers, bent lowers and bushings. The whole blingin package… $85

http://dlux.ecrater.com/p/9078970/co...t-link-package

I'd like to order the full package but have a question about the bushings. From your post above it sounds like to use the tapered bushings you need them on all links (upper/lower), but on the product page it lists that there are only four bushings included in the package deal.

Are the bushings only run on one end of the car, and one bushing per link? If so, I'm assuming run them in the rear w/ the bushings on the chassis end of the links for better link clearance throughout the range of the suspension travel...?

Also, do you have these in stock?

Thanks,
- Chris

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Csnyder

I'd like to order the full package but have a question about the bushings. From your post above it sounds like to use the tapered bushings you need them on all links (upper/lower), but on the product page it lists that there are only four bushings included in the package deal.

Are the bushings only run on one end of the car, and one bushing per link? If so, I'm assuming run them in the rear w/ the bushings on the chassis end of the links for better link clearance throughout the range of the suspension travel...?

Also, do you have these in stock?

Thanks,
- Chris

You can put the bushings anywhere you want as long as there is one per link (upper and lower) so they are all the same length.

I would put them in the rear to push weight forward and make the rear longer.

In stock, ready to go.

Let me know if I didnt answer all of your questions.

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

You can put the bushings anywhere you want as long as there is one per link (upper and lower) so they are all the same length.

I would put them in the rear to push weight forward and make the rear longer.

In stock, ready to go.

Let me know if I didnt answer all of your questions.

Makes sense, thanks for confirming. Order placed.

- Chris

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by Csnyder

Makes sense, thanks for confirming. Order placed.

- Chris

Thanks!

Shipped! You should be clearing obstacles in no time.

Remember to grab your LOSA6044 rod ends.

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Thanks!

Shipped! You should be clearing obstacles in no time.

Remember to grab your LOSA6044 rod ends.

Kick ass, thanks for the fast turnaround! Hoping to get these mounted up at the same time as a Delrin skid from Team Pro Creations.

I have the rod ends ordered up from A Main.

- Chris

[DRCMAN]

Just placed my order

Order No: 1337610

Can't wait to clear the crazy berg break overs

Thanks for all the after market support

[Erik D_lux]

Originally Posted by DRCMAN

Just placed my order

Order No: 1337610

Can't wait to clear the crazy berg break overs

Thanks for all the after market support

No problem! Thank you!

Order will ship the instant funds clear

[DRCMAN]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

No problem! Thank you!

Order will ship the instant funds clear

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Thanks!

Shipped! You should be clearing obstacles in no time.

Remember to grab your LOSA6044 rod ends.

Shipment was fast - thanks!

I put the links together tonight and they are pretty slick. Definitely more ground clearance than stock.

I'm having issues w/ the lower links contacting the driveshafts, though, primarily w/ up travel of the side closest to the driveshaft. I have my upper links in the upper chassis holes, lower links w/ the bend closest to the axle (as in your pictures), and stock LCC driveshafts.

What driveshafts are you using on your rig? I can't tell from your photos. I don't mind swapping driveshafts if I have to, I just want to make sure that I get the ones that will work best w/ these links.

Thanks,
- Chris

[Erik D_lux]

Hopefully I can explain this and have it make sense.

Youre going to have about the same clearance issues as the stock links did, especially if you do not use shock limiters.

I use a Night crawler driveshaft. They are smaller and lighter. Harder to setup and have work well too. I used the stock driveshafts for awhile. They will work good if they are what you want to use.

Ignore the link that is bent outwards in the picture. Its bent that way to clear the steering rod end before I could cut the plastic off.






With whatever setup you decide on, here is the best way to setup the links so you get the most clearance without binding.

Install the link on the car and twist the link upwards so it has maximum clearance. In this position it will obviously hit the links/driveshaft.

Now you can flex the car and bottom one shock out. You can take the link and push it down towards the tire/ground until you have just enough clearance. It should actually do it for you from the link/driveshaft pushing it. Do this for both sides and you will have the links set for maximum clearance.

Now if you put the car back on the ground you will see that it should not have moved too much but it is at a small angle outwards (kinda like wings).

The link works really well because it will push away giving more driveshaft/link clearance when that side flexes up and it will increase ground clearance (less driveshaft/link clearance when you dont need it) when that side tire flexes down. Also because the way the rod ends should be clocked after doing the above, when you hit a rock or slide on a rock the links will rotate up and out of the way.

Let me know if that is just mumbo jumbo and needs more explanation. They are a bit mind boggling at first but once you start using them they will make more sense.

Here is a pic of mine with the links set for maximum clearance

[Csnyder]

Originally Posted by Erik D_lux

Hopefully I can explain this and have it make sense.

Explanation makes sense, thanks for taking the time to write it up and support your product. I'm sure the approach you described would work if using the stock driveshafts was a necessity, but I'm looking to get the max amount of clearance so I'm going to go the LNC driveshaft route. It appears that you've done the same on your rig. Neither of my LHS' have them in stock so I'm playing the waiting game ordering online...

For reference, for other folks looking for high clearance driveshafts - I picked up a set of MIP AX-10 driveshafts, and though they could be made to work, I don't recommend them. The clearance gains over the stock shafts are negligable, and the MIP shafts are HEAVY. I have a good feeling that the LNC shafts will work out, and even if the dogbone end does develop some slop over time, the drive cups are available as a separate SKU separate from the main driveshaft.

- Chris

[DRCMAN]

OHHHHHHHH Yea !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got my links today

Thanks !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!