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-   -   AWD grand cherokees, 2wd conversion? (http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chit-chat/160999-awd-grand-cherokees-2wd-conversion.html)

STANG KILLA SS 02-13-2009 09:29 AM

AWD grand cherokees, 2wd conversion?
 
on the grand cherokees(looking at 00-02), there awd i assume meaning full time. is it possible to yank the front shaft for 2wd highway duty? will this cause any problems/complications , sensors, computer, mechanical whatever.

Shaun 02-13-2009 09:33 AM

Being that its AWD it will have a center diff, so if you pull the front shaft you wont be going anywhere. Unless you lock the center diff.

JeremyH 02-13-2009 09:34 AM

What are your intentions? Pulling the front shaft wont benefit you much unless it is bent...

STANG KILLA SS 02-13-2009 10:21 AM

simply gas milage and was looking to lighten the vehicle for towing(removing skids, rear seats etc). im a newb to this whole 4wd business....

JeremyH 02-13-2009 10:54 AM

Well, that model uses the Quad Drive II system, which should be the NV245 t-case. I'm not sure if there is an electronic sensor on the t-case, but you should be able to remove the front DS without any repercussions. However, I doubt that it will help with your gas mileage any. The light weight of the driveshaft (as compared to the rest of the drivetrain) wont create much torque on the engine.

Also, be careful about removing skids....Chrysler likes to use them as mounting points for the drivetrain.

Shaun, this is a rear wheel drive vehicle until the t-case is engaged, then it becomes 4WD.

2JSC 02-13-2009 11:02 AM

Swapping t-cases would be the only way. You can go from a NV247 to an NV241-OR and should have no issues. I take it you are looking at V8 models right? You might have to change the input on the t-case though.

EDIT
: doing some quick diggin, it's not possible with the NV241-OR. The input shaft is too short for the 8V equipped WJ Grand Cherokee's. They have the 45RFE auto, and the output is some 2" longer than that of the NV241-OR.

EDIT AGAIN: Ah ha! YOU can however swap in an NP231 t-case out of a TJ Wrangler. The only thing you would need to do is swap the input, which will interchange unlike with the NV241-OR. Don't worry about the "weakness" of the NP231. It's a very strong case.

Found this will a little swap info.

Shaun 02-13-2009 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyH (Post 1621011)
Well, that model uses the Quad Drive II system, which should be the NV245 t-case. I'm not sure if there is an electronic sensor on the t-case, but you should be able to remove the front DS without any repercussions. However, I doubt that it will help with your gas mileage any. The light weight of the driveshaft (as compared to the rest of the drivetrain) wont create much torque on the engine.

Also, be careful about removing skids....Chrysler likes to use them as mounting points for the drivetrain.

Shaun, this is a rear wheel drive vehicle until the t-case is engaged, then it becomes 4WD.

So is it AWD for 4WD? Stang Killa said it was All Wheel Drive(AWD) which means all wheels drive full time. Which every AWD vehicle I have seen has a center differential, which means you wouldn't be going anywhere with the front shaft removed.

I didn't know it was 4WD. Sorry, lol.

2JSC 02-13-2009 12:31 PM

Jeep has a funny definition of AWD. They have a FULL-TIME transfercase with 2-modes, 4-High and 4-Low. They call it Quadradrive. The transfercase does have a type of viscous coupler that will slip in a heavy torque situation.

In my sisters older ZJ Grand Cherokee, she had AWD as well, and it sucked. So we swapped in an NP321 and made it RWD with part time 4WD.

JeremyH 02-13-2009 12:44 PM

I thought it mean "Automatic" 4WD...

Hell, I guess I should stay out of this discussion....I stick to Wranglers and CJs...that are easy to work on and dont have as many options.

BTW, you dont want the NP231...it might fit, but would suck for towing. (I can contribute to this part, since my TJ has an NP231) The chain (yes, chain driven) stretches and the case is prone to breakage. There are, however, plenty of upgrades for this case.

STANG KILLA SS 02-13-2009 12:48 PM

correct it was listed as AWD. but that was just on cars.com or something did look up what jeep released/labeled them as.
yeah i figured the skids would double as mounts, but the 2002 overland edition acutally has 3 extra skids on it. i was hoping they were not mounts.

wow you guys know your shit :shock:

on a side note, i sure wish bushwaker would release there cut-a-fender flares for these newer grand cherokees(99+), they stoped making them at the 98 year model. :(

2JSC 02-13-2009 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyH (Post 1621206)
I thought it mean "Automatic" 4WD...

Hell, I guess I should stay out of this discussion....I stick to Wranglers and CJs...that are easy to work on and dont have as many options.

BTW, you dont want the NP231...it might fit, but would suck for towing. (I can contribute to this part, since my TJ has an NP231) The chain (yes, chain driven) stretches and the case is prone to breakage. There are, however, plenty of upgrades for this case.

The NP231 is a very strong case for sure, even though it has a chain drive, you can find the NP231 behind V8 powered Durangos and Dakots as well. "thumbsup"

Stretching a chain takes years of abuse, just like a camshaft chain, they hardly wear out, but when they do, you'll hear it.

JeremyH 02-13-2009 01:34 PM

Yep, a lot of slop in the chain...I know the sound! If I wasnt a cheapass, I would have swapped in a gear driven t-case....

2JSC 02-13-2009 03:09 PM

For a street rig, and mild towing though, the 231 is a perfectly fine T-case. It will only stretch with prolonged 4wd use.

fatbastard 02-13-2009 05:17 PM

I used to have a 99. It was quadra drive. I think I read somewhere that you could get a part time kit for the t-case. I would not know because I was too busy emptying my wallet on all of the stupid bullshit that always broke on that p.o.s, and I babied it too:x

Thermostat... 45.00....wtf
radiator....275.00(because of thermostat I assume)
Multifunction switch.... 80.00 (Headlights would just come on like it was haunted)
Climate control system computer 600.00.... A/C worked awesome on the drivers side but my wifey get pissed because it would blow heat on her side randomly:roll::roll::roll::roll:
I still have the 75.00 fuel filter that I never put on if anybody needs it (not feeler)

JeremyH 02-13-2009 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatbastard (Post 1621818)
Multifunction switch.... 80.00 (Headlights would just come on like it was haunted)(not feeler)

Haha.....been there, replaced that!:ror:

fatbastard 02-13-2009 05:27 PM

Those prices are without labor too. I fix my own. I had that thing in like 04 and could not find aftermarket anything. Had to get all the parts at the dealer.

It was a blast to drive, but the love affair ended quickly when my wallet started taking hard knocks.

Pete from Houston 02-13-2009 06:29 PM

You might be opening yourself up for more problems if you divert all the power to just the rear axle. I had a AWD '98 GC with a 5.2. We had to have the aluminum Dana 44 rear end rebuilt at 60K.


You might consider swapping a Durango-spec NV242 as an alternative.

BJoe 02-14-2009 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete from Houston (Post 1621979)
You might be opening yourself up for more problems if you divert all the power to just the rear axle. I had a AWD '98 GC with a 5.2. We had to have the aluminum Dana 44 rear end rebuilt at 60K.


You might consider swapping a Durango-spec NV242 as an alternative.

That's what i was going to suggest, it should be more than strong enough for this kind of work, plus if you only want 2wd, you have that option"thumbsup"

chrisjlittle 02-14-2009 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete from Houston (Post 1621979)
You might be opening yourself up for more problems if you divert all the power to just the rear axle. I had a AWD '98 GC with a 5.2. We had to have the aluminum Dana 44 rear end rebuilt at 60K.


You might consider swapping a Durango-spec NV242 as an alternative.

Would you also have to swap the trans to do that? 2JSC seems to know what he's talking about. I've never messed much with the t-cases in those things.

What I do know is that the aluminum rear end probably didn't have much to do with your needing a rebuild, chrysler just didn't set their diffs up right back in those days, and lots of them ate bearings. There were a few years there where mechanics all over the country were rebuilding diffs in all kinds of chryslers, from vans to trucks to jeeps. There was a while where we were doing 2 a month at one shop I worked at. Chrysler just screwed the pooch on that one. I'm sure the aluminum d44 holds up just fine for a pavement princess. might not be strong enough for serious crawling, but that's not what stang's talking about doing.

The 231 is plenty good for a street truck. Chain drive t-cases are quieter, lighter and allow better gas millage in 2wd than gear drive cases. For a street truck they're not only good enough, they're actually bettter. The one in my brother's jeep lasted 250k miles, only really using 4wd in the snow. The chain drive 208's hold up in 3/4 ton trucks used for towing ahd hauling. Gear drive is only necessary for real off roading with big tires, period. None of the engines in the 00-02 grand cherokees have enough power to break a 231 anyways.

JeremyH 02-14-2009 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisjlittle (Post 1623630)
Gear drive is only necessary for real off roading with big tires, period.

Well, I guess everyone has their own opinion. My jeep, by todays standards, doesnt have big tires and the chain didnt last long...


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