LR3 Builds a 1:1 - 2003 Grand Cherokee

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS

im letting you know.
all these years ive still never been "wheelin" in my life.
i was at the machine shop last night and the guy was telling me about some offroad park in marble falls.

Yep, that's the place! Come down and we'll head over there one weekend.

Originally Posted by JeremyH

The anti-rock stays connected the entire time....you do nothing to it to go wheeling. Yeah, I tried no rear sway bar....I didnt like that on the street and didnt notice any difference when wheeling, so I put it back on. The rear bar is so thin it doesn't do much anyway...

I was asking if Johnnie was saying it should ride differently with discos and connected.....which it shouldnt.

Yeah, I'm familiar with the Anti-Rock and you're right about the rear bar. No real difference. I'd run mine, but I broke a rear mount way back when and never replaced it.

And maybe I'm misreading your comments, but I would definitely say the ride is different with the front bar disconnected. Much more body roll and offroad it's a much nicer ride.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by Tommy R

And maybe I'm misreading your comments, but I would definitely say the ride is different with the front bar disconnected. Much more body roll and offroad it's a much nicer ride.

Oh, it definitely is.....I was saying that comparing a ride with the stock connects connected should feel the same as with a set of discos connected.

[Tommy R]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Oh, it definitely is.....I was saying that comparing a ride with the stock connects connected should feel the same as with a set of discos connected.

Ah, yes! Absolutely!

Oh, and sorry for the hijack!

[LR3]

Lol, no problem. I like a wheeling related hijack sometimes

[Sh0rtBus]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

The anti-rock stays connected the entire time....you do nothing to it to go wheeling.

That's really only one less step than I have to take when wheelin'. I mean how easy is it to push a button and go?

Of course that backfired on me once...and it really shouldn't have. Apparently the links I got with my lift were a little shorter than what my shocks would allow for droop and I ended up pretzling the passenger link/disco over the drag link. And to make matters worse, even with my 2.5" lift and 37's, I was hung up and had to call my wife to pull me off the top of the burm with her Xterra. Cheap fix, though. Cost me all of $14 for two new longer link rods.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by Sh0rtBus

That's really only one less step than I have to take when wheelin'. I mean how easy is it to push a button and go?

Yeah, but you've gotta look at those gigantic ugly ass fenders......

[Sh0rtBus]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Yeah, but you've gotta look at those gigantic ugly ass fenders......

For now...you're right. But the Poison Spyder Crusher flares will come very soon young Padawan.

[JeremyH]

I know where you can get some Clayton, OK crushed fender flares.....

[Sh0rtBus]

Can pretty much get crushed anything in Clayton....which is why I've never been.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by Sh0rtBus

Can pretty much get crushed anything in Clayton....which is why I've never been.

Awwww! Dont let that scare you.....Clayton is a REALLY fun place to wheel. A good set of rock sliders and you're fine.

For reference, here's a shot of my jeep on the climb at the end of Cakewalk:
http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u...45882397_l.jpg

It's a decent ledge, but fun as hell. Most of the trails out there are pretty fun....only a few are for buggies and big meat vehicles.

[Sh0rtBus]

Well, I wouldn't say my rig packs big meat....but my 37's aren't exactly small, either. And so far, the stock Rubi rails have held up pretty well to abuse. Of course the most abused parts on my JK, though, are the belly skids. I've put those things through hell a couple times over. Main reason I haven't been to Clayton, or anywhere other than Bridgeport here in NTX is because we usually only take day trips. Drive there, wheel, drive home. I've been to Hidden Falls once, but it's only about 45 minutes from my dad's house in Cedar Park. That was a fun place, but dusty as fack the say we went. The next day was when all the fires started in Steiner Ranch and Bastrop.

[JeremyH]

Bah.....you should be able to wheel a lot of the trails in Clayton with 37's...my jeep sits on 33's.

[johnnie walker]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

It shouldnt feel any different when connected.

I drive my TJ around on the freeways in Houston and it has an Anti-Rock installed in the front at a fairly soft setting and it feels perfectly fine...

I guess I should of mentioned when wheeling. Dirt road bumps etc... The increased offroad capabilities are nice on a stockish rig.

[JeremyH]

Ahh....yes. The body roll when off road and driving at a much slower speed is actually a nice feeling....

[Sh0rtBus]

Originally Posted by JeremyH

Bah.....you should be able to wheel a lot of the trails in Clayton with 37's...my jeep sits on 33's.

Ain't the tires I'm worried about. More the axle housings and shafts. Currently looking to regear in the next couple weeks to either 5.13's or 5.38's to push all that rubber around. Not to mention my wife just got me the GenRight tire carrier for my college graduation, so that'll be adding more weight to the rear, along with a 37" spare. I really need to either sleeve the axle tubes, or at least do a truss, like the PureJeep backbone. Little easier option and it should offer about the same protection.

My main concern is breaking axle shafts & u-joints. Although, I've been fine so far, and I've run a few four diamond trails here & there.

[JeremyH]

Interesting...I never knew that was a problem with the JKs. Does it not have a 44 rear and 30/44 hybrid front like the Rubi's of previous years?

[Sh0rtBus]

Probably. The front 44 shares the same housing as the D30. Just different internals obviously. A co-worker that had a 2011 JKU Rubicon grenaded his rear locker, passenger rear shaft, and both front shafts @ 8k miles running a level 2 trail in Bridgeport with the same lift I'm running and same size tires. Granted, he probably a little heavy on the pedal at the time, but still. I've been leery ever since.

And here's a pic of the GenRight tire carrier as I received it Friday evening.

[JeremyH]

Ok...yeah, thats the same setup they used with the TJ Rubis....and I believe most of those folks had issues with the smaller u-joints.

It sounds like you guys might need some Chromo shafts. I'm not sure if AlloyUSA is still in business, but I've been running their 4340 shafts in the front of my TJ for a number of years without any issue.

Yep, they are...here you go....here are their kits for the JK:
http://www.alloyusa.com/front-axle-s...usa-12155.html
http://www.alloyusa.com/alloy-usa-12156.html

And here's why I like their products:
http://www.alloyusa.com/warranty/

[Sh0rtBus]

Looking at those, the main problem with the u-joints on the JK is the clips. The clips fall out and then the caps come off, which usually destroys the joint. The poor man's fix for that is to just tack the caps with a welder. I'm actually considering RCV's myself, but the downside is that since they usually don't give, the next weakest link is the gears in the diff.

[JeremyH]

Originally Posted by Sh0rtBus

the next weakest link is the gears in the diff.

Strange hardened and lightened gears.

They've held up to the abuse in my 8.8...