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Old 04-03-2014, 06:49 PM   #41
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Default Re: Car prob question. (Vid included)

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodsonoma View Post
If u don't have jack stands.Use cendar blocks or wood blocks under tires.
And also if it is u-joints it will clank or thud when you first let off of the clutch.And then when it gets a little pressure on them it will stop unless they are about to fall out completely.


Wood, yes. Cinder blocks, not unless they are turned the correct way to be bearing weight. Most people turn them the wrong way. I've seen small floor jacks and 2 stands go for $20 many times at parts stores. There is zero excuse to not have a set if you have any inclination on working on your own vehicle.

U joints will do many different things. I've had them just let out a click when taking off, make grinding sounds, vibrate at certain speeds, vibrate at all speeds and I've had them sound exactly like the video when the joint was dry but not all of the needle bearings hadn't turned to dust yet.
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:05 PM   #42
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Default Re: Car prob question. (Vid included)

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Originally Posted by WHITE-TRASH View Post
Wood, yes. Cinder blocks, not unless they are turned the correct way to be bearing weight. Most people turn them the wrong way. I've seen small floor jacks and 2 stands go for $20 many times at parts stores. There is zero excuse to not have a set if you have any inclination on working on your own vehicle.

U joints will do many different things. I've had them just let out a click when taking off, make grinding sounds, vibrate at certain speeds, vibrate at all speeds and I've had them sound exactly like the video when the joint was dry but not all of the needle bearings hadn't turned to dust yet.


totally agreed.if using cinder blocks(hollow)turn the webbing(open)part up and down.solid doesn't matter.
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Old 04-03-2014, 08:09 PM   #43
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I wouldn't use cinder blocks. I'll just pick up a couple cheapo stands some day. I have some 4x4 treated lumber scraps. Probably use it next time. On a good note the bottoms not rusted. And somebody has done a good job undercoating it at one point.
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:46 AM   #44
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Well shoot. Looks like a new "used" shaft n all off the bay is $125. Investigated some and looks like it's 4 bolts and pull it on out. Don't sound too bad. I think I'll order it as soon as my little 70cc 4 wheeler sells. Speaking of- any of you Chicago guys got kids? Lol.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:33 PM   #45
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Well Saturday I found a used driveshaft here in Il through facebooks Midwest Miatas group. $77 shipped on Monday- got here Tuesday- and just put it in now. Drove around the block and that annoying ass sound is 100% gone. Inspecting the old driveshaft I can tell it is the front ujoint. It's super easy to bend one way and you can almost hear a tiny squeak. Oh huh and for my safety check this out. I actually used a jackstand AND had a couple 2x10s under each front tire ;)

Thanks all for every reply. This was a simple fix in the end but I didn't know that going in.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:44 PM   #46
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Default Re: Car prob question. (Vid included)

Future reference ... You do not need to buy a while driveshaft.
You can simply change the u-joint. U-joint for that car is probably only about $15
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:20 PM   #47
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Default Re: Car prob question. (Vid included)

I'm glad that worked out for ya.
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:29 PM   #48
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Thanks. This was today. All my rotors were good. Went to replace all the pads and found my right rear guide pin literally fuzed to the caliper. Sooo no slide action. Busted off the guide rod threads in the caliper bracket. After a Dremel, hacksaw, torch, penetrating lube, torch, and flathead, I managed to get the broke off bit out. $72 for a baby sized caliper, $3 for a brake fluid bottle, and infinite frustration in explaining to the wife on how to press a brake pedal while I bled the line. The last bit was actually the worst lol. Now I got no squeaking driveline and awesome brakes. Oh and all my rotors are vented and drilled and pads are the racing ones so now it actually stops how it should.
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Old 04-24-2014, 07:30 PM   #49
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Forgot the picture.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:47 AM   #50
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Default Re: Car prob question. (Vid included)

kind of sounds like the heat shield on the breaks or a wheel bearing going bad. its a known problem on my s2000 due to the rear cv shaft not being torqued enough. could also be the ware bar on the breaks too.

edit: sorry didnt read everything first.
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Old 04-25-2014, 12:50 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by some87 View Post
kind of sounds like the heat shield on the breaks or a wheel bearing going bad. its a known problem on my s2000 due to the rear cv shaft not being torqued enough. could also be the ware bar on the breaks too.

Sorry. It was just from old age on the slide and perhaps moisture getting in combined with sitting a long while. All else is good. Cold as ambient temp after a highway drive.
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