3D Printers and Printing

[tigris99]

Pretty damn good for go head first into petg lol. Pla is much more forgiving and unless a darker color, they do well in RC. PETG I'm finding is actually bad for RC unless detail part, not one that's going to take hit in a bad roll over. But that may be my petg choice. You mentioned brand name filament, so that may work out much better.

Had to "weld" multiple spots on my body that split. But my inland tough pla or amazon based equivalents have taken a serious pounding with 0 issues. Only issue was ever dark thinner parts softening and warping.

Petg may work better if weight isn't a huge concern, aka a body where you need to run it thick. Like my knightrunner roof rack, no issues, the light rack for it (all knight customs files) in petg broke to peices the first time I rolled over on rocks.

Now your awesome ass person, ya petg will be fine. I can't believe how nice it looks at that layer height.

Seeing how quickly you got into that and how nice it's going already, ya think a CR10 is definitely my "sell 1 of my E3ps and buy " plan now. Took me forever to get petg running about that well and I'm running at half that layer thickness.

Hats off man, looks like you've got a knack for 3d printing!!!

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[darkfader]

Thanks! I definitely plan on doing the RC4wd blazer conversion to a pickup for this SSD chassis that is sitting on my desk. I haven’t even touched the kit yet with the new printer in the house.

Do you recommend some PLA for the pickup body parts that I need for that? I’ll be purchasing the Mod19 full depth bed files, or may go with the individual parts he put out to add to the existing rear end of the blazer, not sure yet.

I see there’s PLA plus and I think I saw some PLA pro somewhere as well but haven’t even had a chance to research. I figure I’m going to put a ton of work and time into that body so want to use material that will last more than one rollover for sure.


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[darkfader]

I just did this RTI ramp. Just standard quality because I didn’t see a need for tying up the printer for two days on it. I scaled the original file up just a hair to suit the Jeep’s wheelbase a little better. It’ll make for some good photography with other models in the future I think. I’m back on finishing up the action figure, working on him one file at a time so I can be here in case something goes wrong.








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[soze]

Originally Posted by tigris99

Pretty damn good for go head first into petg lol. Pla is much more forgiving and unless a darker color, they do well in RC. PETG I'm finding is actually bad for RC unless detail part, not one that's going to take hit in a bad roll over. But that may be my petg choice. You mentioned brand name filament, so that may work out much better.

Had to "weld" multiple spots on my body that split. But my inland tough pla or amazon based equivalents have taken a serious pounding with 0 issues. Only issue was ever dark thinner parts softening and warping.

Petg may work better if weight isn't a huge concern, aka a body where you need to run it thick. Like my knightrunner roof rack, no issues, the light rack for it (all knight customs files) in petg broke to peices the first time I rolled over on rocks.

Now your awesome ass person, ya petg will be fine. I can't believe how nice it looks at that layer height.

Seeing how quickly you got into that and how nice it's going already, ya think a CR10 is definitely my "sell 1 of my E3ps and buy " plan now. Took me forever to get petg running about that well and I'm running at half that layer thickness.

Hats off man, looks like you've got a knack for 3d printing!!!

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My IFS skids and most of my structural prints are all PETG. Plenty of abuse. However the Knight Customs Rollbar and lightbar for the Phoenix did break on me. I think that's really a case of those kind of parts being a weaker design in general though. *shrug*

[tigris99]

Originally Posted by darkfader

I just did this RTI ramp. Just standard quality because I didn’t see a need for tying up the printer for two days on it. I scaled the original file up just a hair to suit the Jeep’s wheelbase a little better. It’ll make for some good photography with other models in the future I think. I’m back on finishing up the action figure, working on him one file at a time so I can be here in case something goes wrong.








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I've been wanting something to garage flex pics, I'll look that ramp up.

Loving that figure!

Really nice work especially for being so new to printing. Most people like me it takes some time to get things running that smooth.

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[tigris99]

Originally Posted by soze

My IFS skids and most of my structural prints are all PETG. Plenty of abuse. However the Knight Customs Rollbar and lightbar for the Phoenix did break on me. I think that's really a case of those kind of parts being a weaker design in general though. *shrug*

My skids are holding up fine so far, as is the knightrunner roof rack in PETG. The body I did in petg though, maybe it's the brand but it's weak as hell. In fairness the tumble that rig took I'm not sure anything other than lexan body would have survived unscaved.

Now the PLA I've been using all shows specs well above PETG for durability (flex and impact resistance) but of course they don't say what petg.

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[darkfader]

I’m curious if you guys have experimented with the NylonX. I figure it would make great skids, sliders, roll bars and bumpers, etc. I’m sure it’s a pain to keep it dry but I’m willing to get one of the dehydration boxes to feed from. Mainly I’m wondering just how difficult it is to print with.

Another question was, do you more experienced guys recommend the glass plate over the PEI magnetic flexible bed that came with my machine? I’ve definitely had a few smaller parts get knocked loose. I tried the purple Elmer’s and still had a couple come loose from the PEI.


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[themountain]

Originally Posted by darkfader

I’m sure it’s a pain to keep it dry but I’m willing to get one of the dehydration boxes to feed from. Mainly I’m wondering just how difficult it is to print with.

Not difficult at all, actually....you use a g10 surface, hardened steel nozzle and go with the settings from the maker website...easy peasy

[tigris99]

Originally Posted by darkfader

I’m curious if you guys have experimented with the NylonX. I figure it would make great skids, sliders, roll bars and bumpers, etc. I’m sure it’s a pain to keep it dry but I’m willing to get one of the dehydration boxes to feed from. Mainly I’m wondering just how difficult it is to print with.

Another question was, do you more experienced guys recommend the glass plate over the PEI magnetic flexible bed that came with my machine? I’ve definitely had a few smaller parts get knocked loose. I tried the purple Elmer’s and still had a couple come loose from the PEI.


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Both my printers I just clipped the glass bed over the magnetic part thats stuck to the plate. Just ditch the flexible pad (I never got alone with that damn thing).

Never tried the other filament, I believe it's not indoor friendly without good ventilation and enclosure. I could be wrong though.

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[Tossedman]

Anyone printing with resin may want to take a gander at this. https://blog.prusa3d.com/everything-...-to-ask_70758/

[tigris99]

Originally Posted by Tossedman

Anyone printing with resin may want to take a gander at this. https://blog.prusa3d.com/everything-...-to-ask_70758/

Thanks for that, yeap that just put an end to any curiosity about resin printing. PLA and PETG are as safe as plastics get.

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[darkfader]

I printed four jackstands for maintenance. Lol. I’m having fun with this, still messing with settings but most of my prints are coming out pretty well I think. This is all still PETG.





I still need a couple small parts for the action figure but he’s almost completed as well.




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[tigris99]

I have those same jack stands lol.

Where are you finding the action figures ?

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[darkfader]

The action figure came from cults3d. Search “articulated action figure” and this one should be on the first page. I think it was about 11$ for the files and came with 3 different sets of hands, a couple swords, pistols, etc. The same designer has several different models. I got this one and the super hero body type. The files have them at roughly 6” tall so I scaled all the slices up to 120% and that makes him just over 7” tall for closer to 1:10 scale. I need to make my gf make him some clothes. The same designer has a YouTube video of the assembly. I’m not sure of the linking rules on this forum, so I won’t link, but you can easily find the figures and video with a quick search.


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[tigris99]

Originally Posted by darkfader

The action figure came from cults3d. Search “articulated action figure” and this one should be on the first page. I think it was about 11$ for the files and came with 3 different sets of hands, a couple swords, pistols, etc. The same designer has several different models. I got this one and the super hero body type. The files have them at roughly 6” tall so I scaled all the slices up to 120% and that makes him just over 7” tall for closer to 1:10 scale. I need to make my gf make him some clothes. The same designer has a YouTube video of the assembly. I’m not sure of the linking rules on this forum, so I won’t link, but you can easily find the figures and video with a quick search.


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Ya 7" for rc grade 1/10 sounds about right. I run mine about 6" (actual 1/10) for the basic pre-posed figures for the garage. The hilux looks out of place compared to the tacomas and figures lol.

After I got it all set up I kind.of wished I had printed them all a tad bigger

Thanks for the info, I'll look it up when I get a chance

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[c0bra]

I’m currently working on printing an mfab Comanche conversion in petg.

What have you guys used to bond all of the pieces together


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[c0bra]

I just picked up a voron 0.2 kit. If anyone’s interested I can start a build thread on it


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[Greatscott]

Originally Posted by c0bra

I just picked up a voron 0.2 kit. If anyone’s interested I can start a build thread on it


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Interesting printer, direct drive? With the shroud, you should be able to use any filament you want.

With minimal maintenance, my CR10 is still cranking out good parts. I finally have my Mini Prusa dials in, and is printing reliably (still annoyed it took so much work to get a new Prusa to print reliably).

[c0bra]

Originally Posted by Greatscott

Interesting printer, direct drive? With the shroud, you should be able to use any filament you want.

With minimal maintenance, my CR10 is still cranking out good parts. I finally have my Mini Prusa dials in, and is printing reliably (still annoyed it took so much work to get a new Prusa to print reliably).

Yep direct drive with an enclosure. So I should be able to print any thermoplastic I want.

I’m planning on getting a trident 300 but decided to start with the small one to see if that’s the route I want to go.


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[c0bra]

Well v0.2 kit is basically done, so why not get a much larger ldo voron trident 300 kit!

Plus you can’t build it stock so why not add voron tap, Rapido hf hot end, build area temp sensor, addressable rgbw led strip and along with a raspberry pi 4b 8gb?


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