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10-29-2007, 10:22 PM | #1 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
| Robb's 1:6 Nascar Build Log
Plan: -1:6th Scale Nascar (+/- 34" long, 12" wide) -Rear solid axle (Twin Force) -Front IFS (E-Maxx, non-widemaxx w/ driveshafts for brake) -Chassis, all tube...................no "true" rect frame -Engine, old leftover weedeater somewhere around 23-25cc (tentative) -Transmission, probably won't fit, so none planned so far -Tires, 5" slicks First "organized" tubing I have done, and so far, well worth the effort to plan it out!!! More used to bending by hand, and "sighting" joints, but with a couple of hours of table prep, going the organized route is definitely the way to go! Got the base frame set, and next step is to tack it. Then "lift" the chassis up to ride height, block it, and build the rest from that. Nice to know that everything is going together level and plumb. |
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10-29-2007, 10:40 PM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: FOUR 8 OH
Posts: 4,913
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damn - this should be good!
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10-29-2007, 10:45 PM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 857
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Sweet, this will be one cool build, I wanna see more.
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10-29-2007, 11:12 PM | #4 |
06 Super National Champ Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Stark Industries Bar and Grill
Posts: 11,361
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Have you worked out the diff for the front end? If I remember right, the Maxx and TF have different diff ratios. You'll need the diff for braking. |
10-29-2007, 11:23 PM | #5 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
| Quote:
The point of the Maxx front w/ shafts is to bring the front drive to a single point to brake. The exact way of front braking the single shaft is unknown at this point (and I am open to suggestions). The original plan was to be able to brake the rear axle also, so to leave the ability to rear wheel brake, front wheel brake, or full wheel brake................but this will be dependent on the rear drive, which is unknown at this point. For driving, I would like the ability to adjust braking..................but just for the show and go, I REALLY want the ability to brake just the front. Since the 2-cycle takes a bit to wind up, I want the ability to power-brake the bastard! | |
10-30-2007, 12:22 AM | #6 |
06 Super National Champ Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Stark Industries Bar and Grill
Posts: 11,361
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Ok then. Take the brake hex assembly from a T-maxx and put it on the input pinion to the maxx diff. You'll have to make a mount for the pads to attach but that shouldn't be too bad. Run d-shafts from the diff to the wheels and blammo...front brakes. If you have the radio for it you can mix the front/rear brakes then turn the mix off and just operate the front when you want to light up the rears. Quick thoughts in my head. |
10-30-2007, 06:14 AM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
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Or go all scale-like with a brake at each wheel, cable-operated.
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10-30-2007, 06:45 AM | #8 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 3,377
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That might be worth the effort with loosing the drag created by the front driveshafts and R&P.
Last edited by Thorsteenster; 10-30-2007 at 06:47 AM. |
10-30-2007, 08:45 AM | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Bensalem
Posts: 75
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what if you use a one-way bearing reversed, so it free wheels in forward but will transfer braking power to the front when you try to stop? or like microgoat said you could do it like 1:5 cars do and have wheel mounted brakes. you could even make it all from nitro brakes, use cables, and adjust the brake bias that way Last edited by Power_Wagon; 10-30-2007 at 08:50 AM. |
10-30-2007, 09:11 AM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 857
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11-04-2007, 08:13 PM | #11 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
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I found out that even with the "narrow maxx" arms, the front will be about 1" too wide, so I have to get rid of the front pumpkin. I will probably end up running FG 1:5 cable discs in the front.................but figuring out brakes is quite a ways down the road. Mocked up the first draft of the rear end today.............. |
11-04-2007, 08:34 PM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 857
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Did you think about using a pocketbike motor? I think you might be happier if it would fit ok. Considering the aftermarket for a 47cc cag engine is crazy. My bike pulls 1250rpm loaded and 1360 unloaded. Of course I've put some money into my engine and a tone of time messing with port timing and what not. |
11-04-2007, 09:01 PM | #13 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Aurora, CO
Posts: 442
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Do you think your gonna run the front brakes on a seperate control from the rear? That way you could do some sweet burnouts.
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11-04-2007, 10:32 PM | #14 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
| Quote:
And yes, front and rear brakes would be controlled separately .................although there really isn't any plan for rear brakes right now. | |
11-04-2007, 10:37 PM | #15 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 857
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That sounds good, perfectly understandable. Do you plan on making a should to go around the fly wheel and blow air on the head?
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