Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > Miscellaneous > Chit Chat
Loading

Notices

Thread: Robb's 1:6 Nascar Build Log

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-29-2007, 10:22 PM   #1
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
Default Robb's 1:6 Nascar Build Log

Plan:
-1:6th Scale Nascar (+/- 34" long, 12" wide)
-Rear solid axle (Twin Force)
-Front IFS (E-Maxx, non-widemaxx w/ driveshafts for brake)
-Chassis, all tube...................no "true" rect frame
-Engine, old leftover weedeater somewhere around 23-25cc (tentative)
-Transmission, probably won't fit, so none planned so far
-Tires, 5" slicks


First "organized" tubing I have done, and so far, well worth the effort to plan it out!!! More used to bending by hand, and "sighting" joints, but with a couple of hours of table prep, going the organized route is definitely the way to go! Got the base frame set, and next step is to tack it. Then "lift" the chassis up to ride height, block it, and build the rest from that. Nice to know that everything is going together level and plumb.
Attached Images
   
Robb is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 10-29-2007, 10:40 PM   #2
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: FOUR 8 OH
Posts: 4,913
Default

damn - this should be good!
2JSC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2007, 10:45 PM   #3
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 857
Default

Sweet, this will be one cool build, I wanna see more.
Shaun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2007, 11:12 PM   #4
06 Super National Champ
 
JasonInAugusta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Stark Industries Bar and Grill
Posts: 11,361
Default

Have you worked out the diff for the front end?

If I remember right, the Maxx and TF have different diff ratios.

You'll need the diff for braking.
JasonInAugusta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2007, 11:23 PM   #5
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonInAugusta View Post
Have you worked out the diff for the front end?
If I remember right, the Maxx and TF have different diff ratios.
The front won't be driven in any form. The car will be a purely RWD car.

The point of the Maxx front w/ shafts is to bring the front drive to a single point to brake. The exact way of front braking the single shaft is unknown at this point (and I am open to suggestions). The original plan was to be able to brake the rear axle also, so to leave the ability to rear wheel brake, front wheel brake, or full wheel brake................but this will be dependent on the rear drive, which is unknown at this point.

For driving, I would like the ability to adjust braking..................but just for the show and go, I REALLY want the ability to brake just the front. Since the 2-cycle takes a bit to wind up, I want the ability to power-brake the bastard!
Robb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2007, 12:22 AM   #6
06 Super National Champ
 
JasonInAugusta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Stark Industries Bar and Grill
Posts: 11,361
Default

Ok then.

Take the brake hex assembly from a T-maxx and put it on the input pinion to the maxx diff.

You'll have to make a mount for the pads to attach but that shouldn't be too bad.

Run d-shafts from the diff to the wheels and blammo...front brakes.

If you have the radio for it you can mix the front/rear brakes then turn the mix off and just operate the front when you want to light up the rears.

Quick thoughts in my head.
JasonInAugusta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2007, 06:14 AM   #7
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 8,009
Default

Or go all scale-like with a brake at each wheel, cable-operated.
microgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2007, 06:45 AM   #8
I wanna be Dave
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 3,377
Default

That might be worth the effort with loosing the drag created by the front driveshafts and R&P.

Last edited by Thorsteenster; 10-30-2007 at 06:47 AM.
Thorsteenster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2007, 08:45 AM   #9
Rock Stacker
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Bensalem
Posts: 75
Default

what if you use a one-way bearing reversed, so it free wheels in forward but will transfer braking power to the front when you try to stop?
or like microgoat said you could do it like 1:5 cars do and have wheel mounted brakes. you could even make it all from nitro brakes, use cables, and adjust the brake bias that way

Last edited by Power_Wagon; 10-30-2007 at 08:50 AM.
Power_Wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-30-2007, 09:11 AM   #10
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 857
Default

Have a look around here. Those would be pretty cool.

http://www.nitrotek.co.uk/XRC1.htm
Shaun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2007, 08:13 PM   #11
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
Default

I found out that even with the "narrow maxx" arms, the front will be about 1" too wide, so I have to get rid of the front pumpkin. I will probably end up running FG 1:5 cable discs in the front.................but figuring out brakes is quite a ways down the road.


Mocked up the first draft of the rear end today..............
Attached Images
  
Robb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2007, 08:34 PM   #12
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 857
Default

Did you think about using a pocketbike motor? I think you might be happier if it would fit ok. Considering the aftermarket for a 47cc cag engine is crazy.


My bike pulls 1250rpm loaded and 1360 unloaded. Of course I've put some money into my engine and a tone of time messing with port timing and what not.
Shaun is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2007, 09:01 PM   #13
Quarry Creeper
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Aurora, CO
Posts: 442
Default

Do you think your gonna run the front brakes on a seperate control from the rear? That way you could do some sweet burnouts.
Rudukai13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2007, 10:32 PM   #14
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: VARCOR
Posts: 1,826
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaun View Post
Did you think about using a pocketbike motor? I think you might be happier if it would fit ok. Considering the aftermarket for a 47cc cag engine is crazy.
47cc may just be a tad excessive for a 20lb car...........and too big. I am planning out the cage so that with that engine stripped down to how it is there, I can just barely wiggle it out. And I am trying to make this a "zero sum" project (what I put in it, I need to sell stuff to make up for), so cost is a big concern here. That engine came from my old weed eater, so it is a freebie.

And yes, front and rear brakes would be controlled separately .................although there really isn't any plan for rear brakes right now.
Robb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2007, 10:37 PM   #15
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 857
Default

That sounds good, perfectly understandable. Do you plan on making a should to go around the fly wheel and blow air on the head?
Shaun is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply




Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com