im posting this here cause , i like know you people.

[BEELZEBOB]

and value your like opinions and stuff

ive gone from this...

to this in about 5 months.


so....
from RTR to comp rig.
i did initial upgrades like a new motor, new links, tires, shocks, 4 linking first.
then i went for a dig, a DX3R, and triangulating and scrapping my bent lowers in phase 2.

NOW my friends, we shall take the fianl step.

this is me amping up, gearing down, a new esc and servo.

i want a new charger and lipos. this intails learning all sorts of new stuff. lipo links are needed for Bob to read, and read good.

as i know nothing about lipos.

soooooo, this is the route im thinking of takin
bargain charger[/url]
power source for the charger.....[/url]
as to what lipos, again i have no freggin idea. maybe a 2cell to start?

then i was thinkin about a castle sidewinder ESC. (CAN I USE BOTH LIPOS AND NIMH w/ THIS ESC?
and then for giggles, this servo[/url]
now, whats the gig w/ that servo? i have my BEC set for 7.2V but can i run that servo w/ like a 11 volt lipo?

[666]

None of your links work.

For a charger I would go with a Triton jr.
Computer power source converted work well, and cheap
Lipo, I would get a Thunder Power 1320 3 cell, I have used them for years and love them.
Sidewinder is good, look at the FXR and Mamba Max as well.
Servo, I have used Hitec 5955's for years and love them, but am pondering getting on of the new JR servos.
I would run the servo at 6 volt to prlong the life, no need for 7.2 going to a servo.

[monkeyracer]

I posted in your charger thread:

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

here's all you need to know about lipo (it's all I know, and no fires yet)


- Only charge at 1C, anymore, may equal fire (1000mAh = 1 Amp Max, 1500mAh = 1.5 Amp Max.)
- Always charge in a safe place. (DUH)
- Only use a charger designed for LiPos.
- Don't carry in a pocket with other metals (coins, keys, knives, etc.)
- Nominal voltage is just that, a 3.7V cell max charges to 4.2V, so make sure your esc can handle it. (It does, we both have the same esc, 2 cell max though) 2 cell means full charge is 8.4V but if you're running 7 or 8 Cell NiMH on the Axial ESC you'll be fine, don't think it will handle 3S though.
- 2S2P means there are 4 cells, 2 are wired in series to increase voltage to 7.4V, and two are wired in parallel to double run time mAh, so a 1S2P is a 2 cell, but only 3.7V, and a 2S1P (usually just listed as 2S) is just 2 cells in series to increase voltage. To compare to NiMh, you have a 7S1P or just 7S battery. To throw it off a little more, 3S2P is 6 Cells - 3 pairs of parallel cells wired in series to come out to triple runtime, and 11.1V. This is important when looking at ratings.
- 20C, 25C discharge, etc this is usually inflated a small amount, some brands more than others, but is the max discharge current the battery can supply. So a 20C 1000mAh will provide the same amps as a 16C 1250mAh battery (20x1000=20000, 16x1250=20000, both batteries provide 20 amps.) So don't be fooled by discharge rates, they are based on capacity. Also, max burst ratings are what the battery can support for like 15 seconds max, so when buying make sure you note whether it's continuous or max rating.
- You probably will want to get a lipo-cutoff ESC or the Novak SmartStop to prevent over-discharge. Otherwise, as soon as you see ANY signs the battery is dying, unplug and switch to a new one.
- Store LiPo fully charged. They self drain (just like any battery) and once they're below min voltage, they are pretty much worthless.
- It's ok to get a "slow charger" like the venom JRH linked to (because you can't charge more than 1C) just charge a couple batts the night before and have them ready to go.
- Balance plugs are pretty straight forward, but there are so many different plugs, you'll probably need an adapter to plug it into the balance port on the charger.
- When soldering the deans connector, make sure you heat sink the wire before the cell, excessive heat to the cell WILL damage it. I've got a heat sink clip that I clip on the wire about 1-2 inches from the wire end, the wire after the clip stays nice and cool.
- LiPo doesn't have to cost and arm and a leg, I got a free charger and battery with my MLST (rebate when they cleared the MLST's out) and two more 2S 1000mAh 20C continuous/25C max discharge lipos for $12 each.

You might be able to get into LiPo for just barely more than the cost of the Charger you originally linked to (if you find a good deal on the batteries.)

oh, also you currently use a saddle pack mount, but should upgrade to the battery/servo plate to fit more of a variety of packs. (You can still strap the NiMH's to it if you want.)

I'm sure there's a forum post or website that has all this, but here it is anyway.

Any of the "experts" please feel free to correct me on any of this or add to it, but this is what I've learned, and I haven't had any problems yet.

And to add:
Look at the FX-R, not a bad deal and it's fully programmable, it's small and has lipo cutoff.
The CYS is fine, who cares about the noise?
The BEC will still provide 7.2 to that servo (recommended if you look in the threads about it, the CPE guy swears by it I think) even if you up to a 3S lipo. The "major brand" servos will do fine with 6.0V though. For $20, why not try it, if it doesn't work well, sell it and buy a hitec or something.

[Mule]

I remember talking to you at Lutz when you first came out..... I've been scarce for a bit though.

I've been using Sidewinders for a few years with no problems. In there was a Mamba Max too, it was just overkill. You can program them both which is really nice.

On the charger, will yours do LiPos if you add a balancer? Mine did, so I only had to drop another $30 on a balancer..... I owe that one to Dan. Mine uses 12V so for the house I got an inverter from Wal Mart for about $20, it kicks out enough amps to do the job.

All you need to know on LiPos is on here somewhere, get a beer or two and sit down for some surfing time.
asta
Greg

[Rock Queen]

Just from word around the street (thats all I get to I get my own rig set up!!) Mamba Max is your better buy. Yes for somethings it is a little overkill and really doesn't do much more than the sidewinder however the way I see it is you get what you pay for. I have heard several programming issues with the Sidewinder up to it just completely stop working. Go for the Mamba Max and you won't have to replace for a while.(That's the plan anyway)

[BEELZEBOB]

Mamba Maxx, or TEkkin FXR.

which is better?

and what if a good friend would sell me a FXR for like $75?

what would you do?

(and thanks dooders)

[R2j]

If you can get an FXR for 75.00....buy it! You can run three cell lipo then, same as Sidewinder or Mamba. I like my Sidewinder, much improvement over Rooster. Plus I don't have to worry about messing up my three cells.

[MtnBkr]

Originally Posted by Rock Queen

Just from word around the street (thats all I get to I get my own rig set up!!) Mamba Max is your better buy. Yes for somethings it is a little overkill and really doesn't do much more than the sidewinder however the way I see it is you get what you pay for. I have heard several programming issues with the Sidewinder up to it just completely stop working. Go for the Mamba Max and you won't have to replace for a while.(That's the plan anyway)

I don't really agree with this. I think the early Sidewinders had issues but not the current ones. Besides, the Max is overkill for a crawler unless 3S lipo isn't enough for you. The Max is considerably bigger than the Sidewinder and probably 4x's the size of an FXR.

Originally Posted by R2j

If you can get an FXR for 75.00....buy it! You can run three cell lipo then, same as Sidewinder or Mamba. I like my Sidewinder, much improvement over Rooster. Plus I don't have to worry about messing up my three cells.

X's 2 bro. I went with the Sidewinder because it was a little cheaper and I already had the castle link. But, if you can get an FXR for $75 I wouldn't hesitate to go with that!

The sidewinder drag brake is a little weak with a standard 55t and the FXR's drag brake will stop a train from what I hear.

Word.

[BEELZEBOB]

im pretty freggin stoaked right now.

i got called for a political survey next Sun. i go and participate for 6hrs, free breakfast and lunch, and $200.00 cash @ the end of the day.

because a local crawler is a freggin champion amougnst men, I'll buy his used ice charger for $60, his used FXr for $75, and possible a set of ally wheels for $50!

then spend some time learning 'bout lipos so i dont burn my trailer down, and make the leap.

a freggim 3 cell w/ my novak 45, like real drag brake, and new wheels my truck will be faster than Tims!!! lol

kinda makes me wannna HH handwound 35t and like a 9t pinion.

amp up, gear down baby!!!

yall better whatch your backs, seems the ghetto rig may not be so, ghetto anymore lol

[Mule]

Nice score man, FWIW, I dig on the Ice, that's what I use. Yeah, drag brake on the sidewinders sucks, gotta crank it way the hell up to get it to work good...... But, not your issues now.
Congrats...

[BEELZEBOB]

Hey, i owe it all to the local crawler community!

much respect.

[R2j]

The sidewinder drag brake is a little weak with a standard 55t and the FXR's drag brake will stop a train from what I hear.

After programing My Sidewinder, I'm happy with the drag brake. You have to remember not to get carried away with the trigger And I also run R2 trans and 45T.

Hey, i owe it all to the local crawler community!

much respect.

That's what it is all about! Helping each other enjoy the sport.

[MtnBkr]

Originally Posted by R2j

After programing My Sidewinder, I'm happy with the drag brake. You have to remember not to get carried away with the trigger And I also run R2 trans and 45T.

Yeah, I have mine set to 100%. Do you think a lower turn motor improves the drag brake?

[BEELZEBOB]

id think because of the size of the magnets, higher tuns would "strengthen" drag brake

[R2j]

Originally Posted by MtnBkr

Yeah, I have mine set to 100%. Do you think a lower turn motor improves the drag brake?

I don't know. I put the Sidewinder and 45T at the same time. I'm getting use to it now anyway. I'm pretty easy on the throttle, until I need some more. I think my next motor will be HH 35t, the R2 is really low geared. There is also a learning curve when you switch to the lower turn motors, going from a 55T to 45T was quite different as well as going to the 35T. Wheel speed baby;) That 35T is the hottest motor that I can run with the Sidewinder on three cells. I'll just break more s**t that way.

You would think higher turn motors would aid with drag brake.

[TURTLE]

From my experience the fxr is not even close to as smooth as the mamba system, its pretty stop and go, but if you dont mind jerkin it I guess go for the fxr... I wouldnt though the versatility of the max is awesome, plus it can do anything you want except sensored brushless, not to mention castles 1 year warranty and awesome customer support.

[Agama]

Originally Posted by TURTLE

From my experience the fxr is not even close to as smooth as the mamba system, its pretty stop and go, but if you dont mind jerkin it I guess go for the fxr... I wouldnt though the versatility of the max is awesome, plus it can do anything you want except sensored brushless, not to mention castles 1 year warranty and awesome customer support.

X2, I just pulled my FXR out of my super and put in 2 mamba max's. The FXR low end control sucked. The only good thing is the size and the drake brake.

I really like Thunder Powers batteries and chargers, they have great customer support. I also like max amps lipo's.

[70duncan]

I have been running the FXR for about 7 months now. I realy like them. I switched from the Rooster crawlers on my super. I am the only one on the whole western slope that runs the Tekin though. Everyone else uses the Rooster crawler or Sidewinder. I changed the throttle profile on both my FXRs and the low end controll got better. It depends on which radio I am using, for the profile I use. The best things about the FXR is the size and onboard programming. For the price, I think you will be happy with it.

[BEELZEBOB]

well, im planning on getting the tekin hotwire too.

would that not be sufficient to program low end throttle control?

any balancers you guys would suggest?

[Mr Glassman]

Originally Posted by BEELZEBOB

well, im planning on getting the tekin hotwire too.

would that not be sufficient to program low end throttle control?

any balancers you guys would suggest?

My FXR works great! Can't go wrong with a "blinky"