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Thread: Brought it Home..DTX cliffclimber RTR

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Old 08-08-2008, 01:32 PM   #81
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you can, the problem is that it will send the same amps to both the front and rear motor resulting in no major advantage. The reason we are getting teh stall is because the esc is sending the same power front and back when in reality you need allot more power on the rear because it is under the most stress.
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Old 08-08-2008, 01:48 PM   #82
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The only way to get rid of clod stall is to have independent throttles. You can use more powerful motors (amp draw) to fight the stall in the back, but you will still get a faster spinning front when the tires unload.
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Old 08-08-2008, 01:52 PM   #83
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The only way to get rid of clod stall is to have independent throttles. You can use more powerful motors (amp draw) to fight the stall in the back, but you will still get a faster spinning front when the tires unload.
Ok. At least now I know. Thanks for the info.

For right now I'm going to put the 11 tooth pinion on the motors. Get a little more torque and maybe use a 3s lipo.
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:03 PM   #84
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I got my CC today and I installed a mamba 25. First I wired the motors in series and it worked horrible. Next I wired it up in parallel and it performed much better. I do get the stall but only when the front axle is totally unloaded (spinning) It is fair to say that the electrons follow the path of least resistance in a parallel circuit.
I will play with it more this weekend and make my decision....on what to do with the stall. (hoping I can develop a driving style to live w it)
but I am enjoying it and I have some ideas for some hop ups (homemade)....
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Old 08-09-2008, 12:18 AM   #85
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duratrax at it again i see i was interested in a clifclimer till i saw that lol
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Old 08-09-2008, 06:49 AM   #86
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the initia reason I bought the truck was for indoor winter crawling and for that it rocks. The problems come up when you try to push the truck into comp level. Clod stall is absolutly nothing new, hence the CLOD in CLODstall. If you do a search you will find that there are several tricks to it. Once DTX releases an adjustable motor mount we will be able to drop a tooth on the rea easily and that should fix 80% of the problem. Some higher torque motors wll help a ton but wont cure it as the amp draw wont change.
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Old 08-09-2008, 09:56 AM   #87
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the initia reason I bought the truck was for indoor winter crawling and for that it rocks. The problems come up when you try to push the truck into comp level. Clod stall is absolutly nothing new, hence the CLOD in CLODstall. If you do a search you will find that there are several tricks to it. Once DTX releases an adjustable motor mount we will be able to drop a tooth on the rea easily and that should fix 80% of the problem. Some higher torque motors wll help a ton but wont cure it as the amp draw wont change.
I was thinking of tring an esc from the MLST. It has leads for 2 motors.
I am not sure if the power is seperated in the electronics or not. I gotta get a hold of my buddy I think he has the speedo in his pitbox....
I like the CC and I will figure a way to make it work....even if i need 2 speedos and a stick tx....
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Old 08-09-2008, 11:09 AM   #88
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Guessing ther isnt enough room to shoehorn in some 540 motors? Thinkin about getting one...
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Old 08-09-2008, 11:32 AM   #89
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I was thinking of tring an esc from the MLST. It has leads for 2 motors.
I am not sure if the power is seperated in the electronics or not. I gotta get a hold of my buddy I think he has the speedo in his pitbox....
I like the CC and I will figure a way to make it work....even if i need 2 speedos and a stick tx....
there is no separation in the electronics, just two motor wires off the same hole in the pcb. before i got into the crawler thing I got into the minis, and had a handfull of MLSTs

in fact to get more power out of the stock setup, it was common to desolder the small metric gage double wires and replace it with single 16 gage wires and parallel the motors.
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Old 08-09-2008, 05:35 PM   #90
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there is no separation in the electronics, just two motor wires off the same hole in the pcb. before i got into the crawler thing I got into the minis, and had a handfull of MLSTs

in fact to get more power out of the stock setup, it was common to desolder the small metric gage double wires and replace it with single 16 gage wires and parallel the motors.
The parallel circuit makes the rear stall way to easy....
I originally had a series circuit but my testing was on the bench (wheels elevated) and i was noticing the axles would stall under no load...
the stalling must come from the poles in the motor under no load the series circuit must open and cause the erratic movement. Once I redid the series circuit and tested it on the ground... bam....it crawls much better just slower....now it is time to volt up.....
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Old 08-11-2008, 02:52 PM   #91
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The parallel circuit makes the rear stall way to easy....
I originally had a series circuit but my testing was on the bench (wheels elevated) and i was noticing the axles would stall under no load...
the stalling must come from the poles in the motor under no load the series circuit must open and cause the erratic movement. Once I redid the series circuit and tested it on the ground... bam....it crawls much better just slower....now it is time to volt up.....
Nice, there is hope, any updates?

Last edited by cartronicshn; 08-21-2008 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:33 PM   #92
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after reading through this thread iam undecided if this worth the money ? so clod stall and orings as spacers needed are the only problems ? or did i miss anything else ?

thanks guys.
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:48 PM   #93
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I have mine running pretty good now. I added 3 oz of lead to the front wheels and 1 oz to the rears. It climbs really well for its size.

I just installed the 11t pinion on the rear motor. I'm hoping it solves some of the clod stall. I still need to make a 7 and 8 cell 2/3A nimh packs for the front axle. I'm currently running a 2S lipo on the front servo. I think the increased weight of the nimhs up front will help out also. I was hoping to get a vid up by now, but I can't drive and shoot a video at the same time. I'll have to wait for help.
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Old 08-11-2008, 08:03 PM   #94
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Here is a shot of my Cliff Climber with the J Concepts Rock Steady
Now that looks really good on that short wheelbase.
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Old 08-11-2008, 09:35 PM   #95
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I got mine today, and the wheelspeed is rediculous. Will try the redneck short to slow it down. Haven't experienced rear stall yet though.

What about an EMaxx esc for twin motors? I use one on one of my Axial 2.2 rigs with 2 motors, transmissions and drive shafts. Bought this to experiment around with, and I was one of the very early TLT owners, so I kinda knew what to expect. Shouldn't have to do nearly as much to this to get a decent rig.

Looking forward to the challenge....,remember carbon arrow shafts
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Old 08-13-2008, 03:59 PM   #96
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Well mine is sitting in customs until tomorrow :-(, anyways for the rest of the people that already have one, post up, and any tricks you might have come up with to better the performance are greatly appreciated, might also want to get a subforum for this particular rig, which is already on the market

Edit: Thanks jason for the subforum and JRH for the extra work.

Last edited by cartronicshn; 08-21-2008 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 08-20-2008, 10:29 PM   #97
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hmm, i have been looking at the scorpions, but i might have to look into these a bit more.
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