Clod stall fix
 

If i were to get a 11k duratrax 380 crawler motor for my crawler would that be to much torque in the rear? As I would be runnin the stock motor in the front. Or should i just get the 8500.

get the holmes hobbies cobalts clod stall will not be an issue

Yeah, they are only $40 + shipping each. Only $10 less then I gave for the brand new ARR shipped :shock:
Then you have to buy every upgrade gear and part or you will be breaking everything. So save up close to $170 to get the motors and the parts you will need to even use it for more then a few minutes. A $12 motor sounds like a better option for me for awhile.

So getting the higher torque 8500k motor for the rear axle would fix the clod stall?

They're also quite big motors, I doubt they'll fit. They won't fit on my Clod based Super!

cobalts wont fit. and your going the wrong way the 8500 makes more rpms. (they say the 8500 make more torque because it does that becuase its being spun faster, torque is a multiplier of rpm)
BUT given the same rpms the 5000 will make more torque. im doing ALOT of research and have found a few possibilites on THE motor to run (and not break your wallet, (ie under 20 each).
if you want to help stall. put a 8500 in the front and a 5000 in the back for now. or a smaller pinion out back.

I was wondering if anyone has tried the Losi LMC motor yet. If I had one to try, I would.

Installed 2 of the 7.2v 1100 ma batterys on the front axle of my son's CC
today. There are wired in series. When the rear stall's you just give it more throttle and the rear motor will turn. It's REALLY fast for a rock crawler. Now when the rear starts to stall you hit the throttle and flip backwards. I don't like rear steering that much. Hope this helps. Matt

It won't work.. the mounting holes are different...

what about with the adapter plates from holmes? tried mine on the rocks today and the clodstall is horrible!

The Cobalts fit with 1/32" shaved off the suspension link bracket. If you run them from a single ESC like I did (Novak Rooster Crawler) then you need to wire one of the motors reverse polarity and in parallel to the other. I will give you it is a tight fit, especially with my traxxas t-maxx shocks and losi grey soft 1.3? springs.

Clod stall was banished for ESC ($88) + Cobalts (2x$40) + Deans Ultra (2x$5) = $178 (more than I paid for the thing)
I will snap something else rather than see stall come back now. I pinned 1 tire and the torque would flip the whole rig upside down then back no problem.

see images below for proof.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/dsc02487.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/dsc02490.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/dsc02488.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...d/dsc02489.jpg

That's a lot of money for a cliff climber...
Assuming you payed 140 for it, plus two batteries about 20 bucks each. That is 180, plus about 180 for the two puller motors and ESC. That is about 360 dollars.

With 360 dollars you could have gotten a higher quality car...

Amusing. I was trying to answer the question of whether Cobalt pullers fit the Cliff Climber, not if the Cliff Climber was the best choice for the $360.

Please post your $360 recommendations for outperforming the above for non-comp crawling so I can understand how we (all Cliff Climber) owners went wrong and what we are missing.

So has anybody had luck fixing clod stall with anything but the cobalt motors???

Clod stall is useful...its probably one of the best reasons to have an MOA set up.

Being able to spin the front wheels faster at times helps with vert angles. I tune Clod stall INTO my Berg.

nice richmondcrawler! i heard the same thing about the cobalts. too powerful for the CC. are you running stock gears in the axles, or upgraded to metal?

i thought about running less voltage with the cobalts if im forced to go with them. like a 5 cell pack, instead of 6.

Yup you are right stang, or thsi might happen on 8 cells:evil:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...R/DSC03888.jpg