"Metal Gears" Equals "Pot Metal Gears"
 

My CC hadn't even made if off the workbench yet before I find a major weak link in this thing. On only it's second bench run, I played around a little with simulating a binding situation (not even a full bind), within seconds I get a "click, click, click," then a random grabbing of the wheels.:-(

I don't have to worry about the motors not having enough torque I guess.................

I dont know why you guys are having so many problems with your CCs. Neither mine or my sons have broke anything yet. There is nothing wrong with the stock ESC, Motors or gears. Just because they make metal geras, doesnt mean you need to run right out and buy them. They are not true 2.2 crawlers, so whats with trying to make them be comething they are not. They are great midsized bashers and make awsome scale trucks if you swap out the chassis for something else. HHH motors are a stupid upgrade BTW.

That is possibly the most anti-RCC thing I have ever read here.:roll:

Forget experimenting, forget trying new things...........just buy things for what they are made for, and leave them stock, and just play with them.

TLTs weren't "true 2.2 crawlers" either...........and guess what influence they had on this hobby?

Make great scale trucks? Scale trucks with motors hanging on the axles ain't my thing.

And I don't have HHH motors.

Is that destruction with the stock motors? I've broken the same part in plastic the same way and I figure the metal one will last a long time.


Care to elaborate on the binding tests?


I'm also running larger 390 motors and true 2.2 wheels with a little weight. I'd say it's survived about an hour and a half of abuse, with the plastic idler being the only broken part so far(I already had metal upgrades an cvds in the front). Mine is used as a basher, hill climber, crawler with emphasis on the bash.

Na, that is with a little more torque than stock motors.;-) 13T Cobalts.

Binding tests are nothing but adding resistance to the wheels with my hand. I know, way scientific. Where we run, those always seems to be a crevice or two that you always end up dropping into, and you will always end up binding up your front end completely to a certain degree. I try to build so that the driveline is stronger than the motor, and worse case scenario is a stalled motor with no driveline damage.

I may stick a stock plastic gear in there just to see if it goes at about where I was with the pot metal gear. I am just use to dealing with crawlers with steel gears, and these are just nothing compared to that.

Posting a pic like that now you have some explaining to do:shock:



Did I miss the build thread on this somewhere?

Is that a stick chassis hiding in there?



I knew you couldn't have the stock motors in there to do that:)



More info and more pictures please"thumbsup"... unless you can direct me to a build thread.


Looks good, but possibly a little much torque. If that is possible:ror:

Hey ROBB, are those the $9 Cobalts from Cali?
How many cells you running them with?

I stripped stock spur gear. Metals have held up so far.
Actually fractured two pinions. I bet they used the same Sintered (powdered) metal on the spur and main gears that they did on the pinions. Pretty much junk.
In a past job we used powdered metal parts in heavy fuel pumps, but only in not contacting, non wear parts. I would not suspect in using the technology in gears.

Robb welcome to my headache, i posted the same problem on my thread, the exact same gear got chewed up at the same place with some JRH motors also, these gears are not all that great:-(

:shock:I am running metal gears with stock motors and have crawled mine pretty hard and so far they have held up. Mine has dropped tires in crevices and bouned up and been fine. As for not being a true 2.2 crawler mine has a 12 inch wheelbase and 2.2 beadlock wheels and tires so I'm pretty sure it is a 2.2 crawler or atleast close to one. I'm pretty sure scale trucks don't have motors on the axle, but that is my opinion. I am still running stock motors and ESC and mine will spin all four tires on the rocks. Not to make anybody mad just how I feel. :shock: "thumbsup"

Ouch!!

we need some full pics of this build!!!

i am completely racking my brain trying to figure out what you got there!!! all i can definately figure is that you are using t-maxx chassis braces, which i have always looked at pictures of and thought, "hmmm, how could you use those to make a crawler frame...."

No official thread for it yet, as it isn't complete..............and for whatever reason, whenever I start a thread on a rig, I tend to lose interest in it.:)

But yep, Maxx backbones acting as a torsion chassis, twin cobalts, SW, Spektrum, 9.6V NIMH, twin DIG switches, yada yada.;-) I'll get a thread going when it is fully complete, and is functional enough for me to believe in it.

i have nothing useful to add to this thread.....



















exept this!
http://s.bebo.com/app-image/79255950...-H-Posters.jpg

Installed metal gears and bearing. My son drove the truck and the out drives broke. They are plastic installed metal out drives and one of the gears in the trans now went out. Ordered one new gear. Hopefully it will all be good soon!

does anyone think these gears are worth getting? Or are the just crap?

Yes there are woth getting. Make sure you get the metal out drives. Have you done the oring trick. I used just some waded up paper in the outer joint.

I just got mine last week and it came with orings in the axle drive cups. Are you saying I need more?

No. If there are o-rings in there you are fine.
J

My son's truck had no orings!