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Thread: Another cheap climber(by Jamus)

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Old 05-25-2009, 05:59 PM   #21
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The knuckle screw was one option, but it didn't clear something, can't remember what at the moment though. Wheelbase is only 11 1/4" but my tires are the same diameter as stock.

Well, just about finished up the fab work this evening. All that's left really is mounting electronics, trimming, and paint. The upper shock mounts are crazy tall but want to run it before cutting them off. I milled out the motor side link mount to clear a larger motor, should be more than enough. Also made a beefy aluminum tierod up front that allows full steering, a straight link would hit the diff housing. To get the body to fit low like I want I think I'll have to cut a hole in the hood and bed for the shocks. I also plan to attach soda bottle plastic as a skid all along the bottom(good place for stickers)





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Old 05-26-2009, 06:18 AM   #22
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Nice progress. I like how you solved the problem with the links clearing the motor. When will you drive it? I'm looking forward to your driving reports :P Where do you want them skids to be? Under "teh stick", or under the axles and/or links?
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Old 05-26-2009, 09:17 AM   #23
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I ordered some banebots 390s and it really needs torque but I may not be able to wait on the motors to run it. It's been raining so it might be a test on the carpeted porch. I need to mount all the electronics too.

The skid I was thinking of mounting to the axle end of the links and at the center of the chassis where the links meet. Maybe running over the bottom of the rear axle but I'm not sure.
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:04 AM   #24
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What body you'r planning on running :? And i didn't get the idea of that whole skid, but we'll see how it works out :P I'd love to make mine "sticky'' The ends of your stick, are those some big ball ends?
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:13 AM   #25
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The skid will just be to keep jagged rocks from getting between the links and holding you. Yeah, those are big G-made rodends, threaded for #10 and bolted to the stick with #6 bolts. I had them left over from a super crawler I'd built. I'm not sure on a body, either a beater tamiya s10 body or the stock CC "Bronco". I hate to really hack a new body and I think some major cutting is going to happen.
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Old 05-29-2009, 01:37 PM   #26
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Got the banebots motors in today. Ordered Tuesday night, shipped Wednesday and got here Friday, not bad. Here's a pic comparing to stock motors, about 8.5mm longer.
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Old 05-29-2009, 05:02 PM   #27
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Now lets see how they go in And see if you gonn have any problems ;) Btw, whats with the tires? they good for crawling? They look ODD :P
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:06 PM   #28
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Yeah, they're proline gladiators, M3 compound and they work pretty good, just short at about stock CC size. I have the motors in and tested on the insane extreme obstacles of the porch, due to rain and not having it waterproofed yet. It has much more torque, but what surprised me is the wheelspeed increase. I found I had a heavy left finger after the motor change. This is all on 6-cells, so once I get the voltage up I think these will be quick. What ever happened to those 9T and 10T pinions people were talking about, haha?

Here's some pics of the motor fitment. Rear was no problem at all. The front however, I shaved just enough off that link bracket for it to barely fit.




Here it is on the porch.

Last edited by Jamus; 05-29-2009 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:20 PM   #29
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Its all looking good man! I am kinda suprised at the wheel speed. I figured you sacrificed that for torque with the banebots.

A couple quick questions:

1. Got any ordering and pricing info on the banebots motors?
2. How much did it help with clod stall?
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Old 05-29-2009, 09:44 PM   #30
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The motors were 3.50 each and shipping was just under $6.

They helped a lot with the stall, though this is my first MOA. Better than stock anyway. Only thing is it stalls, then goes but all at once at a higher speed. Maybe thats normal, but seems like its not all that controllable.
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Old 05-30-2009, 10:01 AM   #31
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Thanks for the info. This is my first MOA as well. I hadn't planned on spending much on it. I just wanted to get one so my bro would. I will probably just keep the stock motors and hope the added weights on the wheels helps with the stall on mine.
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Old 05-30-2009, 11:52 AM   #32
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The aluminum beadlocks made a pretty good improvement on mine when it was stock. Gonna add some more up front though I think. Maybe some lead weight molded to bolt to the lower kingpin for really low COG?
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Old 06-01-2009, 06:56 PM   #33
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Ok, it's kinda dry, though the dirts still holding some moisture. Tried the CC out on my personal pile of rocks. I'd like to transplant some of the larger rocks to the side of the driveway, clean of dirt and kill the weeds. Anyway, it did ok, but again the stall is bugging me. Needs more volts even though it's too fast already. Need the torque though. I noticed the tires got better as they got some dirt on them. That or maybe the brand new front tires needed scuffed up on the rocks. Anyway, here's a pic of my rocks and a video.

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Old 06-01-2009, 09:38 PM   #34
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Those tires seem to get some good traction on the rock. I never would have guessed that tread pattern would hook up that well.
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:50 PM   #35
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Yeah, not too bad. I think I'll add some weight to the front tires though. Lots of guys run these cut down for 1.9 on the losi MRC. I've even seen someone build taller tires with moab sidewalls and 5 or 6 gladiators. I've always like the tread design and had one pair find me through a trade. Figured if they didn't work out I'd toss em on my stampede, but they're good so far.
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:49 AM   #36
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Hey Jamus did you wire the motors in series or paralell?
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:02 AM   #37
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Hey mate like the look of your's i just bought one an was wondering how the gear sets held up in them an what are they like at crawling
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:49 AM   #38
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Mudrat: Thanks, my gears are holding up so far and they're the stock plastic, everything stock. But I'm only running 7.2V.

Badtoy1986: I have my motors run in parallel, I think. I run large wire(short) to the rear motor, then small wire from the rear motor up to the front motor. + to + and - to -, so I'm guessing that is parallel right?
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Old 06-03-2009, 11:31 AM   #39
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yes that is parallel. Series would be positive from ESC to positive motor. Then negative motor to the other motor positive. Then negative back to the ESC
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:47 PM   #40
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Is series supposed to be better? I had two electrical engineering classes in college but that was long ago and basicly taught me not to electrocute myself.
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