Dual 3s Lipo/Dual Sidwinders/Dual 4400KV Inrunners Setup Help Needed.

[TheHeadHunter]

As the title says it Dual 3s Lipo/Dual Sidwinders/Dual 4400KV Inrunners setup on 2 channels ,so i have a few questions;



*** Running front steering only (one servo) do I need to mess arround with disconnecting BEC wires etc?

***I need a regular Y harness between the ESCs and no reversing harnesses right?

***I was told that mixing the two 3s Lipos current with a home made lead will keep the discharge rate even ,is there such a lead for sale anywhere , I just need a photo or a guide of some sort to making the lead... (is this necessary?)

*** Any good diagrams or threads on a similar setup? I couldn't find any.


Thanks !!!!!

[JohnRobHolmes]

*** Running front steering only (one servo) do I need to mess arround with disconnecting BEC wires etc?

Not really, you should be fine leaving the wiring stock

***I need a regular Y harness between the ESCs and no reversing harnesses right?

correct

***I was told that mixing the two 3s Lipos current with a home made lead will keep the discharge rate even ,is there such a lead for sale anywhere , I just need a photo or a guide of some sort to making the lead... (is this necessary?)

just a normal Y harness. You would be better off with one big battery instead of two smaller ones, but if space or $$ dictate two packs you will have a double Y harness that connects all positives and all negatives together from batteries and ESCs

*** Any good diagrams or threads on a similar setup? I couldn't find any.

Photoshop was open already....

[Culetto]

Wasnt my post but i had a similar question,, thanks!

[TheHeadHunter]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

a double Y harness that connects all positives and all negatives together from batteries and ESCs

Is this what you mean by a Y battery harness???

Thanks Rob ,I owe ya 100 beers already !!!

[TheHeadHunter]

I am confused still....

[JohnRobHolmes]

Yes, exactly. The wires are connected at the X. The easiest way to solder it up is to take two wires and strip a bit from the middle, cross the bare wire, solder, reinsulate.

[TheHeadHunter]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Yes, exactly. The wires are connected at the X. The easiest way to solder it up is to take two wires and strip a bit from the middle, cross the bare wire, solder, reinsulate.

Thanks again !!!!!! Ill post up the results soon!!!!!

[TheHeadHunter]

Actually I just tried the ESC/LiPo/Motor separately and found some different behavior in the ESC's after following the Quick Start Guide ...

Whilst doing the basic programing as advised in the booklet one ESC didn't flash the RED or multiple lights

now one is always flashing the multiple colors whilst in use and the other is not flashing at all but is working fine as it seems

one more difference is in the appearance of the wires ,they look slightly different from one ESC to the other ,could this all mean that they might be from different batches or (hopefully not:-() that they are programed differently by default of the batch ????

[CD13]

Unplug one and set them up one at a time,you may find one isn't set up right or not working right.

[TheHeadHunter]

Originally Posted by CD13

Unplug one and set them up one at a time,you may find one isn't set up right or not working right.

I'll try that ,thanks CD

Damn the motors heat up real quick too ...I guess its not too unusual with inrunners.....

[JohnRobHolmes]

Are you crawling with inrunners?

[TheHeadHunter]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Are you crawling with inrunners?

not really

[JohnRobHolmes]

They will warm up fast, but they will get really hot if you try and crawl with them.

Bashing, tooling around, what are you doing with it?

[TheHeadHunter]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

They will warm up fast, but they will get really hot if you try and crawl with them.

Bashing, tooling around, what are you doing with it?

Just bashing around the park with the daughter...

Took it for the first run and broke the front right knuckle then replaced it for another one and broke the servo horn in the next 2min then bashed some more in the dust without steering and ended up braking the left knuckle too
(possibly because the plastic was a bit old and brittle on some of the stock knuckles I had lying arround)
Damn this thing is fast its does a back flip if I hit full throttle on asphalt ...

The motors are OK (pretty hot) ,the ESC's are getting pretty damn warm ...I might have to install fans



Next thing is that the lights are behaving differently again on both ESCs ,one has a constant orange light lit while its on and the other only lights the yellow light when throttle is used I wonder which one is not set properly???

(I might have to set them again separately????)

and on the first start run the Front was spinning the opposite way to the front so I just switched the front motor wires around, is this OK?

[JohnRobHolmes]

all sounds good. Just recalibrate the throttle and retry.

Keep the motors under 180f and they are safe.

[TheHeadHunter]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

all sounds good. Just recalibrate the throttle and retry.

Keep the motors under 180f and they are safe.

One has a constant orange light lit while its on and the other lights yellow only when throttle is used ,I wonder which one is not set properly???



Lucky to be getting the best advice around!!!!!!!!!

[JohnRobHolmes]

I can't remember which is correct. They might have a few different versions of LED indication as well. Max throttle lights solid green (or red for reverse). The controllers I have just blink the red and green for partial throttle with no LEDs lit for neutral. The orange LED may be a change in the build.


If it works and both light green for forward throttle you are all good.