Splitting a Battery

[Hopuprtr]

i was wondering if I could split a 3000 nimh an wondering how thanks.

[Krawler Freak]

youll need some battery bars, wire and a soldering iron, resin core solder, flux, ow ya and some battery shrink wrap

[LoveToROCK]

Yes to the above...especialy the battery shrink wrap. I made a spilt from a stick a few days ago and found out why they give it to you in a kit. Without shrink wraping each cell from a stick they will short out. I layed a bar across two batteries and then used my finger to adjust it's position for soldering and it burnt my finger good.

[hcssbd]

I have done it to get the battery on the front axle.

You need big soldering iron/gun, battery bars, insulating washers would be good as well, plenty of tape, solder, and glue.

I had to wrap each cell as they were from a stick pack reusing the fiber washers. I had some heavy duty S&K bars I used to hold the shape well. It ended up 4 cells on top of 2 to get it on the front axle plate I fabbed up. Only catch is it's almost too much weight, afraid I may snap a C hub if I have a sudden drop/impact.

I am looking at a similar configuration for my Losi MRC, just using 2/3A cells instead of sub C. The plate is fabbed and servo moved, just have to do the battery next.

[hcssbd]

Originally Posted by LoveToROCK

Yes to the above...especialy the battery shrink wrap. I made a spilt from a stick a few days ago and found out why they give it to you in a kit. Without shrink wraping each cell from a stick they will short out. I layed a bar across two batteries and then used my finger to adjust it's position for soldering and it burnt my finger good.

Heat shrink wont always stop that short. :-(

You need the insulating washers on top of the cell to prevent shorting individual cells with the bar (easy to do when putting bars on), the heat shrink is more to stop cell shorts when they are touching (placed side by side) since the can of the battery is the NEG.

[Mic]

If you are planing on putting it on the axel you would be better served by getting a 2/3a pack already made as the sub Cs are to large to fit on the front axle.

[LoveToROCK]

Originally Posted by Mic

If you are planing on putting it on the axel you would be better served by getting a 2/3a pack already made as the sub Cs are to large to fit on the front axle.

I agree with going with the 2/3 size.

But the sub C's will work, as I did below.

[pantherr]

when u turn the tires dont rub against the battery?

[LoveToROCK]

Originally Posted by pantherr

when u turn the tires dont rub against the battery?

Not with them standing up.

Here's another pack that I made last week and some info on building packs.
CLICK HERE

[SeanD]

Here's another pack made from sub c cells. I used these for a number of months with great success - they are a bit heavy but the runtime was close to 1.5 hours @ 4600 mAh. There was no rubbing at all - even at full steering lock. This is on a WK axle which is a bit wider than the AX-10.



I now run a 7 cell 2/3a saddle pack that I made a few days ago and its working out fine so far.

[whitetshirtguy]

i just pull apart my battery to make a saddle pack and i cant get it to work out it is meatling the soilder but it not sticking to the battery and i fell that im getting the battery to hot i really hope i didnt mess up my perfectly good pack that only has a couple charges on it someone shot me a pm adn give me some help

[LoveToROCK]

Originally Posted by whitetshirtguy

i just pull apart my battery to make a saddle pack and i cant get it to work out it is meatling the soilder but it not sticking to the battery and i fell that im getting the battery to hot i really hope i didnt mess up my perfectly good pack that only has a couple charges on it someone shot me a pm adn give me some help

Did you follow the link in my post above? There's some help there.

[whitetshirtguy]

Originally Posted by LoveToROCK

Did you follow the link in my post above? There's some help there.

read link after i tryed it but im goin to try again tommrow and see what happened

[trainer]

You need to scuff the ends of the cell and a really hot soldering iron. I had the same problem with my old iron, could not get the battery bars to stick. The cell acts as a heat sink, be careful or you will overheat and destroy the cell.

I got another iron, a cheap 60w and wow what a difference! The bars were no problem and infact I do most of my soldering with the new iron, I like the fact that I can sort of "tack" the joints quickly. Just be careful with small things (Deans for example), a hot iron will get the parts hot fast.

[toiboi808]

Originally Posted by LoveToROCK

I agree with going with the 2/3 size.

But the sub C's will work, as I did below.

this setup works great i ran it on my ax10 and never rubbed:-P untill i made the jump to lipo