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| | #1 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: (rock garden) Tempe
Posts: 55
| like the discription says I am a noop here and I was wondering if I can run lipo batts with my stock esc, can I program the stock esc? Or do I need to get a better esc for it to work right? Thanks |
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| | #2 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 234
| Everyone is ging to say NO, ou can't use a LIPO with this, but I am here to tell you that you can... I have been running a 3 cell lipo for a afew runs now, and it is just fine as long as it does not get too hot on there. The stock ESC can NOT be preogrammed. If you do want a better ESC get a sidewinder or a Mamba Max. DIma |
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| | #3 |
| Frontside Jones! ![]() Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Scappoose OR
Posts: 1,356
| Get a better ESC with a built in LVC. The Castle Creations Sidewinder is affordable and programable. Also the Tekin FX-R or the Novak Rooster Crawler although I dont like Novak. But don't go lipo just to do it. In my signature there are some batt buying tips. |
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| | #4 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: (rock garden) Tempe
Posts: 55
| I want to go lipo to get longer run times with less weight, and lipos size will make it easier to make a place to mount the battery. right now I have a standard stick pack 7.2 mounted on the back axel and I don't like it so I am trying to figure out how to mod my truck with as little money as possible. I know there are lipo regulators and lipo cut offs would one of these make it so that I won't kill my lipo? |
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| | #5 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: San Jose
Posts: 282
| If you're using a stick pack now, do you have a charger that will charge lipos? If you want to spend as little money as possible, I would recommend spending less than $20 on a front axle servo battery plate, and modifying your stick pack by cutting off two of the end cells and remounting them beneath the 2 center cells, so that the plug-end of the battery is 2 cells wide by 1 cell deep (and sits on top of the servo), and the butt-end of the battery is 2 cells wide by 2 cells deep, and sits on top of the battery/servo tray. I did this to my RTR last week and it helped a lot; I only had to spend money on the battery tray. |
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| | #6 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: (rock garden) Tempe
Posts: 55
| yeah I do have a charger, I have the 2c/3c that came with my cx2. but I like that Idea I will look into doing this. is it a hard mod to change the packs like that? |
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| | #7 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: San Jose
Posts: 282
| Here's a helpful tip: to keep information clutter limited, try to keep your future responses in this thread. It's considered bad forum etiquette to have 2 threads on the same topic. Therefore, I'll only reply to this one. Modifying the battery pack is quite simple. Use a razor blade or utility knife to sllice open the heat shrink tubing around the bottom 2 cells on the pack and then gently pull them away from the others. There are thin metal "bars" soldered between each cell. Use scissors or another narrow cutting implement to cut the bars, leaving enough remaining bar on each cell so that you can solder to it. Cut only ONE AT A TIME, or you will cause a short in the battery. When you cut, note the polarity of the cells and how they were attached to each other. When you've separated the 2 end-cells, solder a short length of 10AWG wire to each of the cells. Make sure the 2 wires are long enough so that when you put the end cells under (or over) the middle cells, the wires reach the bars on the 2 middle cells. Then, solder the remaining ends of each wire to the appropriate cell in the middle pair of cells. Wrap the newly configured cells in battery shrink wrap or electrical tape. You may need to place something between the cells when you start to secure them so that they sit on top of each other. Last edited by XPLORx4; 09-17-2008 at 04:17 PM. |
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