Tekin FXR
 

I am about to get a new esc and aim to Tekin FXR. I got a question :
what is the factory default of setting such as Drag brake, driving profile..etc. I know they have plenty of programing setup via Hot Wire.

As you know hot wire is sold separately, so if I don't want to buy a hotwire , what do I get FXR at factory default. If anyone know, pleae kindly advice. Thank you.

the fxr is awesome, you don't need the hotwire, it can me programmed by you pretty fast by a button on the esc!

How about reading the manual?
http://www.teamtekin.com/manuals/FXManual.pdf

how about reading his post, he doesn't have it yet!

Seems the factory settings are in the middle not to much not to little. Cool thing is you don't need the hotwire to program them and programing is supereasy with the two buttons on the ESC. I set mine up in about 10 Minutes. "thumbsup"

I am extremely happy with my Tekin FXR's. I do not have the "HotWire"... but it has more than enough tuning/adjustability for me to dial it in"thumbsup"
I love the Tekin FXR8)

thank you for such a quick response. Seems like
FXR will sit in my rig soon. thanks again.

I would like to know what you set your settings-
I heard someone set the brake a "4" and works well
I heard another set the reverse with no delay.
What do most there throttle at?
I have one on the way-I READ directions allready!
getting 45t with speed control FRX-Matt

heres what i have for settings. now at full throttle if you let off the trigger my truck will do a nose stand..."thumbsup"


#1 drag brake set at 11
#2 neutral width set at 3
#3 current limit set to off
#4 push control set at 2
#5 brake reverse set at 2
#5 throttle profile set at 1
#6 voltage cutoff set at 3 i run a 3s lipo


its so easy to change setting just play with your truck and try different things... i like the way mine is working for me right now but i may try different things...

:roll: You do know that reading a manual to a device can educate you on what its capabilities are even though you don't own the damn thing?

"thumbsup"

Thats probably why he put a link to the PDF file of the manual in his post."thumbsup"

Keep in mind that the settings will vary depending on the rig, terrain, temperature, foam, tire wear and type. For example;

On my Berg with Losi's/memory foam at Little Moab, mid day, I run a 36 on my drag brake. At Black Rock I run a 34 as there is more traction. Temperature makes a huge difference too as the tires work better or worse depending how cool things are.

I pretty much only fiddle with Lipo Cutoff, Reverse Delay and Drag Brake. Drag Brake is the one that I work on the most and with a little testing, you'll find the right setup for your rig "thumbsup"

8)

You know the Drag Brake and Push Control are completely opposite each other right? The drag brake is increasing the off throttle braking and the push control is trying to push the motor when you let off throttle, so pretty much what it's doing is acting like you have a little less drag brake set than you actually do on the unit.

"thumbsup"

Wouldn't it just smooth out the application of drag brake, but not decrease the final amount applied?

When I experimented with Drag Brake and Push Control parameters, I found that a low Push Control setting (2-3 LEDs) let the truck "coast" a little after throttle release before engaging the drag brake, which stops the truck practically on a dime. Push Control seems less useful for crawling, but better for rock-racing.

It would be nice if the Drag Brake could be made progressive, instead of "on/off". For example, Push Control could be used to set the time it takes for Drag Brake to fully engage when you release the trigger. In other words, when you release the throttle, drag brake starts to engage immediately, but at a low value, like 1%. If Push Control is set to 3 seconds, then it would take 3 seconds for the drag brake to reach 100%. Conceivably the Hotwire could be used to program the shape of the Drag Brake response curve.

That would be nice.

I agree that a gradual ramp of the drag would be useful.

Very helpful thread, thanks to all


What's the design deal with the HUGE Cap you have to solder on OUTSIDE the box why no put it inside.:?: :?:

Because it makes it's "footprint" even smaller. If they put it inside it would make the esc bigger.
I have never had a single issue with the capacitor.... and i've landed directly on it multiple times during bodyless rollovers:shock::ror:

I got a tekin FXR and the hotwire... Not sure if any of you that have posted have used this to program your settings... Programming on the fly is easy enough with this thing that it is hard to justify spending the money on it. The two big things that I do like about programming via the hotwire is that you can see the definite settings which makes it easier to get an idea where you need only small adjustments. And you can set the lipo cutoff via the hotwire to any custom level in .075 volt increments. If anyone is local to colorado/north denver area and needs to use a hotwire pm me.

It can not operate with out the cap, so why leave it out.
IT IS Bigger, Poor Dumb a$$ design ! . Just put what it needs in the box :roll: