quick radio interference question,HELP!!!!!

[rckjeep]

Is there a problem mounting a RX or ESC on aluminum?

[DUDE]

As long as the rx is a suface type mount with the reciever wire away from the sides if there is a lip there should be know problem.

On the esc just do the traditionall three wrap on the motor wires and you should be fine.

The only interference I have come across is the power drain on an esc with no reciever batt. I sniped the middle red wire on the novak and hooked up the 1800 rx batt and now mine is real fine, torqey servo's are cool.

With a gear reduction and higher motor speeds all the power goes mostly to the motor and the servo's can freak out everything when too low on power.

[Destroyer]

I've been running my reciever on an aluminum sheet and aluminum chassis for 2 years with no problems. The antenna wire even touches the alu chassis and there hasn't been a problem yet. No shielding to the motor wires or even capacitors on the motors. Rebellion!! No, actually i'm to lazy to solder the stupid things on.

Destroyer

[rckjeep]

On the esc just do the traditionall three wrap on the motor wires and you should be fine.

Call me stupid but what are you talking about?

I need to do that wire snipping thing to my ESC also .

[DUDE]

Originally Posted by rckjeep

Call me stupid but what are you talking about?

I need to do that wire snipping thing to my ESC also .

you twist the motor wire's(+@-) three times around each other before soldering them to the motor, cut's the feedback on the motor.

On a pulse drive system all it is doing is turning the motor on and off thru a frequency. Sometimes there is motor feed back freq and screws with the esc if it is pulse driven and not true digital.

The three wrap prevents frequency feed back from the motor some how.

It is motor interference in lamin.

[badger]

rckjeep, just mount that shit up and worry about it later! You need to get that truck running by tomorrow morning... and you have been sleeping WAY to much! I saw a post from you at around 1:30 am, then the same morning you posted around 7:00 am.

Where's the dedication?

[rckjeep]

OK, well yesterday everything worked and then it stopped. I got nuttin'. I come home change my RX pack make some susp. changes, take out the rear servo solid mount the drag link, dive it for a minute(literally) and the front servo isn't getting any info all of a sudden. Then the motor gets nuttin'. WTF!? Is the RX toast? Was following the hobby shop guys advice and cutting the red from my ESC to the RX a bad idea? I'm a little pissed off right now. I get the susp. worked out. no twist good flex and sittin level. and I can't drive it. Could I have fried the RX?

[badger]

I have a 2 channel Novak XXL receiver that takes Hitec crystals that you can borrow to trouble shoot your problem.

Let me know, I can over night it to you.

And what do you mean you cut the "red" wire from the esc?

The only wire that should be cut off is the yellow wire that is coming from your receiver pack switch.

Here is a picture of my receiver pack connector in my receiver.

[rckjeep]

Ok, the hobby shop guy told me if I run a RX pack to cut the red wire from the ESC to the RX. It's the power wire powering the RX from the battery. With the rx pack powering the rx it will screw up the rx. so I cut it. it worked yesterday with it cut. Can I get the futaba connector and cable crimp ends? Or did I already fry the rx. I have a rx and a ESC but in another car. Now, I'm wondering about the rear servo too. I'll try and hook it up tonight and check it out.

[rckjeep]

ok new radio and rx. motor works, no steering still. Does the ESC have anything to do with steering? Man I'm confused.

edit: oh and the front servo was getting hot in 15-20 secs.

[badger]

No, the ESC does not have anything to do with the steering. You should be able to just plug in your receiver pack to the receiver and not even have a 6 cell pack in the car and also not have the ESC switch turn on and you should be able to steer.

I have never hear about cutting the red wire from the ESC.

If you want, give me a call tomorrow after work.

[rckjeep]

alrighty, I will. I just tried a different servo with esc & rx from my TXT and it works. So I guess I fried both servo's I'm gonna try and get a plug tomorrow and re-do the red wire on the ESC. then see if I can get another servo. I'm gonna try and send them to Hitec for service. I'll call them tomorrow and see.

[DUDE]

I run a rx pack with a novack esc. The red wire that is cut or removed is the little red wire in the middle of the group of three that plugs into the rx.

If you run power from your drive pack and rx pack in at the same time you go over the recommended voltage and fry out the servo motor's.

Power from the drive pack off the big red wire carries power to the rx and energizes everthing on the + side of the power circut in the rx.

You have to seperate the rx power and the drive power buy sniping the little red wire on the rx plug when bypassing the BEC with a
rx pack.

[Jeckler]

I thought you just left the ESC power switch off, and use a switch on the external RX pack.

[MUD4FUN]

You can also fry your ESC if you're not careful. I have a 6 channel setup which I am building into a crawler. I was testing the 4WS and all of a sudden my (cheap) ESC burst into flames. I forgot that I was powering the RX from its own pack and I hadn't snipped the power lead from the ESC to the RX.......My Super Rooster ESC had been snipped but I'd borrowed that for another project so was using a cheap futaba one for testing......there is always something you forget to do

[DUDE]

Originally Posted by Jeckler

I thought you just left the ESC power switch off, and use a switch on the external RX pack.

Thats what I thought to untill it didn't work, I don't run a switch either. I did some thinking and that is what it had to be, because it works now.
The nitro guy's use rx packs and we all know that, but there isn't an esc on a nitro. So thats what got me thinking it thru.

Beside I remember when BEC was invented!!!! (42 years young)

I just figured it out and it works, thats all. I freak out LHS guys all the time with my understanding of RC electronics.

[rckjeep]

DUDE, I've been running it with both pwer for a month and no issues, then I hear about this and cut the wire and one run both my servo's take a sh!t. I narrowed down to them last night. I still can't figure out why my ESC quite yesterday but it's working now. So why did my servo's crap out with the wire cut?

I'm so confused.

[DUDE]

Originally Posted by rckjeep

DUDE, I've been running it with both pwer for a month and no issues, then I hear about this and cut the wire and one run both my servo's take a sh!t. I narrowed down to them last night. I still can't figure out why my ESC quite yesterday but it's working now. So why did my servo's crap out with the wire cut?

I'm so confused.

If you have been running it the way you said, then I am kinda confused myself.
It could be one of a few things
1) I have never used a dual motor esc so that I don't know too well.

2) it could be your servo, you use the H brand right?? I had more than one crap out and yes they will fix them untill you get sick of sending them.

3) useing a modified esc from a dual motor to a single can't be right. I am not saying it is wrong but who knows. The thermal could of kicked in because of the servo failer.

4) Not enough power will heat up servos real fast. That is why you see nitro racers always topping off the rx pack between races, and for the good fresh power for torqy servo's

5) If your motor and servos and esc run hot than something is not right.
Running an electric motor out of 0 timing and in reverse rotation will generate alot of heat fast and when that happens the whole electricall circut works overtime.

6) your crwal ratio could be too high wich causes alot of heat when the motor can't run at higher rpms like it should. If it is a standerd wind of 27 turns on down to 6.
These motors are desighed for 17000 to 31000 rpm . Thats why the slow rpm motors work better. A lower rpm motor = more in the power range of a motor when you crawl, thats why a 55 turn motor works so good.

Like I said before I was a RC racer and I am new to RC crawling, but not 1:1 crawling. The two combo's work great for me on the learning curve.


BTW: when I was building motors I had a 27 turn epic hit 30,000 rpms @ 6 volts, ya it would eat small block nitro's.

[Jeckler]

I emailed Novak regarding this. Here's my question, and their response. Now, this could apply to my specific ESC and receiver, so....

Originally Posted by Jeckler

I am running a Hitec Laser 6 radio with a Super Rooster ESC in a twin motor Monster Truck. I am planning on using an external RX pack to power the receiver and two hi-torque steering servos. I've run into conflictinginformation as to how to implement the ESC. I've heard situations ranging from just leave the switch on the ESC off, and use the switch on the RX pack to power the system, to going as far as snipping (or removing the wire from the plug) the red wire on the ESC harness to the receiver. What is the proper way? Does it depend on the type of receiver being used and whether it supports BEC? The reciver in question is the Hitec Supreme 8-channel.

Originally Posted by Charlie from Novak

You can leave everything alone, and simply leave the ESC switch turned OFF at all times. You will use the receiver battery switch to turn the truck on and off.

[rckjeep]

1) I have never used a dual motor esc so that I don't know too well.

I'm not. Here's my set up.

Futaba 3pm-fm radio and R133f RX
Novak Rooster ESC
2 Hitec 645MG servo's
single 55t Integy motor
GD600 @ 2.5
9t pinion
crawl ratio 149:1
5 cell RX pack.

When the RX pack died I kept running the truck without steering for a few more minutes.

sunday I replaced both batt's, disconnected the rear servo which was dead and drove it for a few minutes then both front steering and motor stopped getting signal(so it seemed)