02-16-2010, 03:34 PM | #41 |
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02-16-2010, 03:37 PM | #42 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
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02-16-2010, 03:38 PM | #43 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: St.Louis
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Good stuff, just broke out my old motor rebuild gear from back in the carpet oval days. Rebuild 2 Integy motors for a guy I crawl with. Took me a while to remember all of the tricks I learned from the past. I relay miss building motors. That was part of the hobby for me. Now with all this brushless stuff coming out... Blah. These new guys don't know how easy they have it! Same thing goes for batteries! Discharge trays, dead shorting the battery, Raising the voltages. All of it was a lot of work! Now just get a brushless setup and a lipo and go to the track.. Its not the same! |
02-16-2010, 03:41 PM | #44 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
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No, its not. But brushless is headed in the same direction now. They are about to release (if they have not already) rebuild-able motors......they are putting them on dyno's now also. I started this hobby racing carpet oval. | |
02-16-2010, 04:25 PM | #45 | |
Custom Carbon Fiber Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Connecticut :(
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same here, Oval racer at heart myself. if theres a tenth of a second to be saved or 5 more rpms to be gotten an Oval racers is always looking for it | |
02-16-2010, 05:50 PM | #46 |
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You nerds talking about aligning the brush hoods with this tool? I use one of those to get everything together and as a starting point. Then I do the tweaks to the hoods one side at a time, like I showed earlier in the thread. Rarely have I seen the comm hit the center of the brush using that alignment tool alone. Oh and yeah, I've serrated some brushes, and not some. |
02-23-2010, 12:57 AM | #47 |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
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ok,this is what I'v been looking for. I have searched lathes but all I get are larger ones. where do I find these lathes and all tools needed. also I assume I can do 380 and micro motors aswell with it? I think cutting the comms wil be easy enough,but aligning the brushes sound like it may take some practice. I really want/need to learn this. but I cant drop 300 for a harbor frieght micro lathe right now. and thats about the smallest I found. glad I found this here,rcc freaking ROCKS |
02-23-2010, 01:06 AM | #48 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Arat Alabama
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Good place to start http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...ode=0&showt=on |
02-23-2010, 01:17 AM | #49 |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
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damn it man,basically I cant afford it,hell just the cutting tool is around 150 nope not gonna be learning it yet. anybody want to cut some comms for me? 380 sized |
02-23-2010, 01:28 AM | #50 | |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
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I like the fantom the best I think. but not sure yet. can you break your motor in on em as well? and will these work on 380's and micro motors? I assume so,but would like assurance first. Last edited by rock hard; 02-23-2010 at 01:33 AM. | |
02-23-2010, 11:23 AM | #51 |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
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ok found a entigy xipp perfect comm lath 2 it says from 180-540 sized motors can be cut. 129 on thier web site 90 new on e-bay but I cant get muck detail about it. does it come with the bit/pully's belts,motor ect? but this is what I'll shoot for I guess since it does 380's also is it possibale to remove a comm and replace it with a larger diam. comm? and if so where to buy the larger comm. and whats the process of removal ect. |
02-23-2010, 12:15 PM | #52 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew.
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Don't forget to search Cobra and Huddy on fleabay but don't even think you can live without a diamond cutter it's a must have IMO.
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02-23-2010, 12:31 PM | #53 |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
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the only hudy and cobra's I see are for 540 sized motors. I talked to fantom,they said the 380's wont work in a typical comm lathe the integy is the only one I have found that will do the 540 and 380 but I like the looks of the fantom lath the best. |
02-23-2010, 01:41 PM | #54 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Arat Alabama
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Bit of info from the master, Big Jim: Choosing A Bit First, the benefits of carbide supercede that of a diamond. Here's why. If you've never used a diamond tool bit before, you will probably chip it before you figure out how to set it up. Then you won't know it's chipped and you'll keep trying and trying and you'll look like Big Jim and Hank by the time you stop pulling your hair out. They chip very easily. Then you're out of a bit of money and have a whole lot of frustration ahead and behind you. Diamond bits are for experienced pit lathe users or machinists. I have been cutting toy motor comms for 30 years and I use carbide bits. Diamonds can go bad if you take too big a cut, if you hit the tabs, even if it was cutting fine when you packed it away, a diamond bit can be bad the next time you take it out. Don't ask me why. I have even chipped a diamond just by using the wrong kind of brush to clear the chips away. I figured out later that the steel band around the small paint brush I was using must have hit the tip. And no two diamond bits are the same as far as setup goes. Some bits need no shims. Others of the same brand and type will require 2 shims. Don't ask me why on that either. Carbide bits of the same brand always seem to setup the same. Another reason to use carbide is when it's dull, the finish looks like crap. A diamond will just start cutting out-of-round and you won't know it until your start putting your motors together because the finish looks fine. Unless you are extremely experienced, stay away from diamond bits. Use carbide until you gain that experience. Then you can either buy a tool sharpener like I did to do the job right, keep honing the tip with a diamond file until it is so distorted it (you unintentionally change the angles a little each time if you won't work anymore then sharpen by hand), throw it away and start with a new $4 bit or use a diamond. Here's the tool sharpener I use. I've had it since 1980 and it still works fine. www.glendo.com. | |
02-23-2010, 05:33 PM | #55 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Lowell, Arkansas
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I use carbide bits all the time. Get the cheapo set of them from Harbor Freight, just swap the tips around or replace them when they start cutting poorly. Diamond is nice, but not necessary. Search the rctech.net classifieds for used comm lathes. Needing to cut 380 motors will really limit the selection, as you have found. |
02-23-2010, 05:45 PM | #56 |
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02-23-2010, 05:49 PM | #57 |
owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
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02-23-2010, 08:03 PM | #58 | |
dnf Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Under a big fkn rock.
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hey man.pm me. I need to talk to you about 380's if you notice nobody really has any advice on the 380's Last edited by rock hard; 02-23-2010 at 08:44 PM. | |
02-28-2010, 12:21 PM | #59 |
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This is a nice looking motor, I'll have to see if I can drag this out long enough so the guy will forget he gave it to me to tune up. Yokomo based 12 turn double, laydown brushes, four magnet can, perfect for flooring it in the scaler! |
02-28-2010, 01:50 PM | #60 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Arat Alabama
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Looks like your having fun EP. I got my little cobra lathe in Friday evening, now I'm going through old storage bins, closets, shelves, etc... hunting motors to tinker with. Cut on them first to get the hang of it again before I start cutting all the high dollar handwounds.
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