Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks

[schiesz]

I've been grabbing motors to practice on, and i'm not quite sure what to do with this one.



I saw Cordwood had one with an endbell like this that he rebuilt back on page 63, but I don't see a good way to pull out the brushes for removing or replacing the endbell. I thought this one had screw caps like the checkpoints when I bought it on the bay, but now see that it has no such thing.

Are these hard to take apart and put back togather? I'd love to get a new arm from EddyO and get this thing rolling in my scaler, but i'm not sure where to go here.

[ultimate_monkey]

Originally Posted by TEDROCKZ

I guess your budget would be a factor.

You want the best of the best
Holmes Hobbies / Holmes Bikes :: Motors :: Brushed Replacement Parts and Service Tools :: Fantom Factory Commutator Lathe

EddieO @Br00d had some really good one at one time to. The H.A.R.D. brand. No link

Probably the best bang for the buck for new
Motor Lathes & Parts for Slot Cars, RC Cars & Trucks R/C or RC - Team Integy

Best of new and used and my favorite place. Good deals come through pretty regular
lathe | eBay

thanks for the reply, i saw the integy one on ebay, but i wasnt sure if i would be getting somthing "OK" or just buying intefy junk haha, relaistically ill prob be cutting 7-10 coms a year, if not less, so it should do me alright for that?

[TEDROCKZ]

Keep an eye out on ebay or any of the rc forums for sale sections. $50 deals come through quite frequently. Well worth the waih if you are in no hurry

Originally Posted by ultimate_monkey

relaistically ill prob be cutting 7-10 coms a year, if not less, so it should do me alright for that?

[ultimate_monkey]

are you talking about 50 for the integy one?? the one iv found is 47.99 + the 10 S&H up here to canada. so 50 new would be worth it?

[TEDROCKZ]

Nah! I was just throwing out a sometimes good price on a deal on ebay. Seen many good ones go for @ $50

I have never used an integy but for that price I would try it.

Originally Posted by ultimate_monkey

are you talking about 50 for the integy one?? the one iv found is 47.99 + the 10 S&H up here to canada. so 50 new would be worth it?

[TEDROCKZ]

@ schiesz on that motor the spring are held in by a ridge probably a 1/8" below the top of the brush tube. Take a little pointy tool of some sort and it will pop out. Pretty simple to catch the idea once you've done it. They are sorta a pain because of having to unsolder the brush to change the spring. It is a good motor

[schiesz]

Originally Posted by TEDROCKZ

5 volt will most likely cut a bit smoother than the 3.3. You may have to shim the bit up or down. Most instructions I've seen say .001-.005 above the center of the arm.

I was a tiny bit below the centerline with a new bit in the chuck, but I just shimmed it up so it is just barely over center and can tell my cut looks a lot better. I'll probably leave it at 3.3V now that I have the bit properly placed. It seems like that did the trick for me.

I see what you meant about the ridge for the spring as well. Time to cut

Thanks for the help!

[Cordwood]

Originally Posted by schiesz

I've been grabbing motors to practice on, and i'm not quite sure what to do with this one.



I saw Cordwood had one with an endbell like this that he rebuilt back on page 63, but I don't see a good way to pull out the brushes for removing or replacing the endbell. I thought this one had screw caps like the checkpoints when I bought it on the bay, but now see that it has no such thing.

Are these hard to take apart and put back togather? I'd love to get a new arm from EddyO and get this thing rolling in my scaler, but i'm not sure where to go here.

You can also pull the brush by the shunt, compressing the spring, and then hook the shunt in one of the slots in the brush hood. Do it to both, holding the shunts in the slots with two fingers, and you can pop the end bell right off. Just be gentle hooking the shunts so you don't damage them.

When you order an arm, he has stiffer springs, too.

[65BAJA]

I have an old 15T Team Checkpoint Platinum motor with the tiny brushes. I would like to try rewinding it for my crawler. Is there somewhere I can order new brushes for this thing? Also where can I order wire and how do I figure out wire diameter vs number of turns? One more question, what does it mean when a motor is a double wind or a triple wind?

[Cordwood]

Originally Posted by 65BAJA

I have an old 15T Team Checkpoint Platinum motor with the tiny brushes. I would like to try rewinding it for my crawler. Is there somewhere I can order new brushes for this thing? Also where can I order wire and how do I figure out wire diameter vs number of turns? One more question, what does it mean when a motor is a double wind or a triple wind?

I think those motors use 1/24 slot car brushes. Cant remember for sure. If anyone on here has brushes and springs for it, or knows where to get them, it'll likely be EddieO.

You can buy magnet wire anywhere with a quick google search. Look for the 155C rated stuff as it has a thinner coating. A 35 turn motor will need somewhere around 25ish feet to wind. Ebay has 75' spools for less than 10 bucks. What turn motor do you want to wind? Depending on the arm web thickness, an average 35T will use 21-22 awg wire. Read up on circular mills.

A 35 turn double will have 35 turns of a smaller awg wire wrapped on each segment twice. So wrap 35 turns around a segment, terminate at the comm tab, then wrap 35 more turns. You can also wrap 35 turns on each segment, then go around and wrap another 35 turns on each after, as well as wrap two strands of wire around a segment at the same time on each segment. In the end, you'll find that the total amount of circular mills for 35 turn single will be similar in value to a 35t double that used a thinner wire. Probably not something you want to attempt if you're just starting out.

[65BAJA]

Well I'm running a 55T lathe right now. It's too slow. I was thinking 35T would be good. Thanks for the info.


Edit: found 200 ft of 21 Gauge 155C rated for $11.15. It comes in green or red. I wonder which one is faster?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Red!

I also carry checkpoint springs and brushes. Holmes Hobbies / Holmes Bikes :: Motors :: Brushed Replacement Parts and Service Tools :: 540 motor Springs and Brushes

[Cordwood]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Red!

I also carry checkpoint springs and brushes. Holmes Hobbies / Holmes Bikes :: Motors :: Brushed Replacement Parts and Service Tools :: 540 motor Springs and Brushes

I don't see the small slot car brushes that 1980's checkpoints used on your website?

[JohnRobHolmes]

Missed that part, I have the newer version with round brushes. Whoops! Eddie would probably know about the smaller ones indeed, he is keeping up with the slot car scene.

[EddieO]

They use a 36d slot car brush....pretty common. Good luck finding one with shunts though.......most slot motors don't use them or if they do, they are simply wedged between the brush and the spring.

Springs, umm...I think they are slot too...never had to replace any....

Trip to the slot car track may be in order.

If thats a big jim wound arm in it, you are gonna destroy the armature before you get it unwound. Even if you manage to get the wires off, you will destroy the comm tabs, as they are welded....

My suggestion....sell it to Tedrockz and buy a new motor

Later EddieO

[TEDROCKZ]

Originally Posted by EddieO

My suggestion....sell it to Tedrockz and buy a new motor

Funny but true! These are victims of my latest internet rc scavenger hunt binges.

[65BAJA]

Hmm. Well I will take a few pics of it when I get home. I don't think it has been run since being rebuilt by the guy that used to own checkpoint back in the 80's.


Eddie, I also have a Trinity 11T double "Flatwire Cobalt" motor that's about 5 years old. Very low time. Could this be used or do you sell an arm that would fit it?

[EddieO]

Your cobalt would make an EXCELLANT motor for crawling. They are very good motors.

You just need to put a crawler type arm in it, any 7.5mm comm arm will fit....PM me and I can get ya setup...maybe even trade ya an arm for the Checkpoint

Later EddieO

[Robbob]

I got out of racing just before the cobalts came out. ROAR didn't allow cobalt mags so my question is did they change the rule for real cobalt magnets? Are they real cobalt/rare earth magnets or something stronger Ernie used in the motors?

Also what was the benefit from flat vs standard wire? And is there a benefit we would see in crawling from flat wire?

Sent from my HERO200 using Tapatalk

[65BAJA]

Checkpoint Platinum.