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Old 01-12-2011, 12:13 PM   #1
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Default peltier cooling

Anyone ever tried using a peltier cooler to cool an esc that is mounted inside a waterproof box? I am guessing it wouldn't keep it completely cool, but might help. I saw this and the price/size seemed reasonable, also the voltage would work for up to 3s lipo:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ource=googleps

Rod
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:15 PM   #2
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only one side of a peltier gets cold, the otherside gets burning hot, so you will still need a way to cool that with a heatsink/fan or other.

I had a friend that watercooled a computer, and had peltiers under the water blocks, and the water coming out the otherside was hot.
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:18 PM   #3
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yeah I don't know much about them, I figured a heat sink would be required. The question is would it cool enough to be effective. We have one of those coleman coolers that has a peltier unit, and it doesn't get so hot as to be dangerous, but again I don't know in this case. Just opening a discussion . thanks!
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:22 PM   #4
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either way your trying to cool something in a closed unit, I dont see the point in adding a peltier as it doesn't solve your cooling issue at all.. just moves it about 3mm lol.

then theres the fact that they can draw alot of power, I personaly would rather have that power going to my motor, but I see your point on opening it for discussion, maybe someone else thinks its a good idea.

for those who don't know what a peltier is.

it looks like this, the TLDR version is this: pos. neg. wires, messes with electrons, one side gets cold, one side gets hot.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling

Last edited by fred0000; 01-12-2011 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:27 PM   #5
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Ah, I see your point. I didn't fully explain what I had in mind. I was thinking maybe you could cut a hole in the bottom of the box, and seal this to it with the hot side on the outside. Then you would have a cold surface on the inside on which to mount the ESC. Okay, realizing the ESC probably has a case around it, etc, but since there are no moving parts and it should be possible to make a waterproof seal with it....Maybe??
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:28 PM   #6
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Oh, this unit says 3a max, which is basically like a servo, so not a lot of power draw. But you are right it would use some power. I dont' know if the temp difference would be enough to make it worth it.
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:30 PM   #7
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why not cut slots in your box and seal the heatsink thats laready in it with the fins going through? again with only moving the issue,

I forgot to ask, are you even having heat issues? alot of people run there ESC's in boxes anyway.

if you are, I don't know how much room is in your car, but you could try a larger box, it would hold a larger volume of air and take longer for it to get hot.

make an aluminum box, or a box with an aluminum plate, remove the heatsink and seal where the heatsink is to the aluminum box side, the box would then be your heatsink, there are alot of options, just gotta think.
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Old 01-12-2011, 12:34 PM   #8
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No problems yet But thanks for the suggestion. My esc is in the mail. Yeah I am not trying to spread fear of heat or anything, just thought it might be fun/informative to discuss it.
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Old 01-12-2011, 01:34 PM   #9
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Not very feasible for in car use really.......to get any type of cooling worth a crap, they suck a lot of power and you need a very big heatsink/fan combo, which is going to be heavy.

I had custom ones made years back, while they helped keep it a little cooler.....we could not overcome the weight issues nor the power consumption, not to mention we had condensation issues......with LiPo now, power is not a problem, but I don't see how you can overcome the weight....



Later EddieO
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Old 01-12-2011, 01:41 PM   #10
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I remember using a peltier cooler back when I raced touring cars. Froze the bejusus out of the motor but as EddieO pointed out... lots of condensation. Plus, any advantage I may have had being able to run a taller gear, etc went out the window the first time I smacked the boards...
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:14 PM   #11
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I made one of the first motor cooling units out there for a RC motor, but all mine were designed for pre-race use. My brother in laws were big into computers, so I learned about them from them......I always cooled my motors with Ice, aka the Big Jim Ice Trick....when I saw these things on my brother in laws overclocked CPU, I was like AWESOME.....when I started Team Brood, I developed one of these......problem was, short of handbuilding each one and with the constant failure rates on the Peltiers, I wasn't so gung ho on releasing them. A guy, named PharrisWheel started hand making them not long after pics of them by people started showing up on the net. I think he sold a good 500+ of them......until Much More purchased the rights from him to make them (why they paid him, I dunno). The much more units worked ok (I have a couple), but nothing like my hand built unit that worked with the motor still in the car. I had a unit for outside the car, used 4 peltiers and was made out of huge hunk of copper (copper is a better heat transfer device than aluminum).....going to a race one time, I brought it with me to show off for the magazines......never made it with my luggage. TSA took it for whatever reason. I tried to get it back and they claimed they didn't know where it was.....never bothered making another one....

Later EddieO
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:31 PM   #12
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Great concept but that being said they use alot of power its a pure inductance coil. kill a battery fast think of this heat is wasted energy this produces alot of heat now you are useing this now add a large volume fan and a heavy heatsink alot of wieght to. This all together a 5000mah lipo would drain in about 5 t0 15 depending on the efficancy and size of the plate. and last to much condensation
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