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Old 05-12-2011, 10:53 AM   #1
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Default Motor glitchy at low speeds

I have a tekin 55, outcry esc, cc bec, 87t, 15t, and a flysky gt-2. When I go real slow the motor starts to bounce a little like it's not gettin smooth power. Drive train is smooth cant feel any binding. Where could i start lookin for problems? Thanks
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:56 AM   #2
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Could be the low end on the ESC, or it could be your radio. It could also be the comm hanging up on the brushes a bit.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:01 AM   #3
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I would say a combination of 4s and that ESC is what is giving you bad results. That ESC isn't all that smooth in comparison to something like Castle and the 4s is most likely exagerating it. Affordability and good perforamance are not usually hand in hand.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:08 AM   #4
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might need a bec I had a smilier problem and tore apart every thang to find out the my steering was make my motor glitching was caused by my staring servo pulling to much power
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:11 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by rockn View Post
might need a bec I had a smilier problem and tore apart every thang to find out the my steering was make my motor glitching was caused by my staring servo pulling to much power
His first post states he is using a Castle BEC.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:30 AM   #6
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Ya I know I have some budget electronics, just wondering if it could be anything other that oh well. It doesnt ruin my day crawling by no means because I usually don't have to go that slow. Other than that everything works great but I have been scoping out the classifieds for a better and smaller esc, we'll have to see if one hits me just right.

John- It's a fairly new motor maybe 2 months old and I have never dug into a motor yet. How can I check the comm and brush connection? What do I look for?
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RksPlz View Post
How can I check the comm and brush connection? What do I look for?
The "simple way" is to just pull on the brush wires (usually silver or copper colored & braided) and let the brush slide back in. Do this a couple of times.
Dust/dirt can make a brush "hang" and not make good contact to the comm.
Brushes need to be ~3/16" long or longer, depending on the motor.
Comm (copper colored thing that moves with the pinion gear) should be close to copper colored......if it's black and the edges between "segments" is jagged, you may need to service/replace the motor.

Look for the "cutting comm's....." thread here for a LOT more info.
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Old 05-12-2011, 02:55 PM   #8
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Are you supposed to break in a new motor somehow? Thanks Charlie-III I'll try that when I get home tonight.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RksPlz View Post
Are you supposed to break in a new motor somehow? Thanks Charlie-III I'll try that when I get home tonight.
It's best to break them in. However I rarely do. Break in is just a low voltage run for several minutes to get everything seated in you could say.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:12 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harley View Post
to get everything seated in you could say.
More or less...

Specifically, to FULLY seat the brush onto the commutator. If the brushes are new, they likely don't exactly match the diameter of the commutator, and need to be worn in so the entire face of the brush is in contact with the comm.
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:25 PM   #11
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Could it be a timing issue? Even though it doesn't look like it could be adjusted.
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