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Old 05-18-2011, 01:28 AM   #1
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Default Breaking in crawler motors? yes/no?

I have 2 RC4wd 45t motors going on my RS10 moa crawler. These are the cheapy sealled cans. Should I break these puppies in or what? I hear many conflicting opinions on this for crawler specific motors. I've done water break-ins before, but what do the motor gurus say?

Don't tell me to just buy better motors unless your selling me novak 55s for $10 a piece. Thanks
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Old 05-18-2011, 01:30 AM   #2
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Yes you should break them in.....I would do about 5 min on them at about 4 volts.....should do the job, not that you can really check though.

Don't water dip.....

And I wouldn't tell you to buy a novak anyways....

Later EddieO
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Old 05-18-2011, 01:33 AM   #3
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I'm no guru but personally I wouldn't bother with a crawler motor unless it's some fancy high dollar unit.
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:51 AM   #4
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Thanks guys. I guess 5minutes on 3 C cell energizers couldn't hurt it. I'll rig it up tonight.
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:00 PM   #5
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just take it easy on the motor the first time. keep an eye on the temps,dont let it it get to hot. and it will be good to go.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:37 AM   #6
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Oh yeah, I Guess I need to solder a couple capacitors on these guys. they are ill-equiped at the moment. Forgot about that part. Anything I should know?
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:50 AM   #7
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Remember that you shouldn't run a motor without a load.

You can buy a small fan that press fits on the motor shaft to provide a load when running in the motor on 3 to 5V.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:38 AM   #8
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Definitely break em in. Im not quite sure why you should not water dip them as EddieO says. The sealed can motors take forever to break the brushes in. Water dipping would break them in just fine. I always water dip my motors after a rebuild to seat the brushes. You just have to know how to do it. People can ruin brushes and coms from improper water dipping.

The guys who race the Slash spec classes have to run the stock motor and one trick to get more power out if them is to water dip the motors to set the brushes, as they have sealed can motors too.

Who knows, maybe I don't know what im saying, but im sure you can break em in one way or another.
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:50 AM   #9
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There is no truth in this for a brushed motor. Often a load is unwanted, depending on the brush type.....the Checkpoint Infinity brushes were famous for this.......no load, 1.5 volts for 25 minutes......some stock brushes like a little load, others did not....

Your boy Deiter rarely put a load on the motor while breaking it in, neither does Oscar Jansen.......the orion V2 motors hate it also.

Now, a brushless motor in general should never be ran without a load on it.

Later EddieO


Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Remember that you shouldn't run a motor without a load.

You can buy a small fan that press fits on the motor shaft to provide a load when running in the motor on 3 to 5V.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:00 PM   #10
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...or a nitro for that matter.

Remember to lube well if you've used the water method.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO View Post
Don't water dip.....

Later EddieO

Why not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AreCee View Post
Remember that you shouldn't run a motor without a load.

You can buy a small fan that press fits on the motor shaft to provide a load when running in the motor on 3 to 5V.
No load for brushed motors is how you should always break them in. Fan is waste of time and adds load, if they are getting that warm, which they shouldn't a small fan pointed at the motors will keep them cooler.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:25 PM   #12
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Water dipping can be effective on certain motors with certain brushes....however, often people don't know what they are doing and do more damage than good......there was a user on here that water dipped his motors....he ended up having to replace the arms, it came out that bad. And often, the motor rarely gets cleaned correctly, which leads to rust inside the motor......which is bad news, especially on a non-rebuildable motor. Even the original kings of water dipping, the Silver can racers (usually ran in tamiya spec classes or at tcs) have pretty much stopped using it also....they have found using a slave motor for ungodly amounts of time at low voltages to be more effective.

Not all brushed worked well without a load though, there was multiple brushes we used in stock that peformed better and broke in better if we used a small fan (I had these amazing aluminum ones in two sizes).....in the end though, if you have to choose, no load is a safer bet. A fan blowing in on them is a good idea.....

Later EddieO
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:07 AM   #13
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hey EddieO

Breaking in these motors, and I noticed the brushes have a point at the top and a point at the bottom, giving them a C shape and contacting the comm at the 2 points only. The stock motors on the rs10 were the same.

Am I suppose to wear those right off so the brushes have full surface area on the comm?

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Old 05-20-2011, 01:40 AM   #14
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Default tekin t45 hand wound

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Jackalope View Post
Oh yeah, I Guess I need to solder a couple capacitors on these guys. they are ill-equiped at the moment. Forgot about that part. Anything I should know?
just got 2 tekin t45 pros for my bully build,whats the go with adding caps? a newbie question,cheers blingg.
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Old 05-20-2011, 06:23 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blingg View Post
just got 2 tekin t45 pros for my bully build,whats the go with adding caps? a newbie question,cheers blingg.
The caps on the motor are to filter electrical noise that might cause interference with your radio reception.

This is almost a must with AM systems, helps FM systems and doesn't do any harm to 2.4 systems.
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:47 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blingg View Post
just got 2 tekin t45 pros for my bully build,whats the go with adding caps? a newbie question,cheers blingg.
Your motors already have caps on them. No need for extras.


Breaking in a motor is always a good idea.
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:03 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
Your motors already have caps on them. No need for extras.


Breaking in a motor is always a good idea.
All the Tekin motors I bought did not come with the caps on them. I had to solder them on.
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:43 AM   #18
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The Tekin Pro motors have the little cap PCB already attached. Either you bought them years ago or you did not get the pro version.
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Old 05-20-2011, 12:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
The Tekin Pro motors have the little cap PCB already attached. Either you bought them years ago or you did not get the pro version.
Machine wound, I believe they're Yokomo cans, stand up brushes.
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Old 05-20-2011, 07:30 PM   #20
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Default tekin pro caps

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Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes View Post
The Tekin Pro motors have the little cap PCB already attached. Either you bought them years ago or you did not get the pro version.
With a closer look i see them.
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