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Thread: New to BEC,4PL+FXR+CCBEC=?

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Old 06-05-2011, 12:42 AM   #1
Rock Crawler
 
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Default New to BEC,4PL+FXR+CCBEC=?

like the title states im new to having to use a bec,ordered a 4PL,FXR ESC,Brood motor and CCBEC and was wanting to get some reasurance as to how to wire it?

would hate to fry my new awesome gear with a super noob mistake ya know?

Before posting this thread i did do a bit of reading on cc BEC wiring and saw a few different ways to wire but some cause problems and id like to avoid those problems.

So the one I'm most likely to try was to

#1) solder +/- bec to battery plug on ESC end.

#2) swap the servo male harness for a female and plug the cc BEC directly into the servo.

#3) then isolate the servo sig wire away from the bec and hook that up to a male harness and plug that single sig wire into the Rx servo port

Thus bypassing the bec from having to power the Rx so the FXR can.

sound about right?

I shouldn't have any glitch then yeah? also read that some glitch problems was due to the bec Amperage being dialed too low and needing to be hooked up to the castle link?

is the castle link a absolute must when owning a cc Bec?

Last edited by Mr. crawl; 06-05-2011 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:29 AM   #2
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Sounds good, basically what I have (I made a "bridge" from the servo plug to the BEC instead of a harness) in my 2.2 Bully.

As to the CClink, you don't change the amps, you change the voltage. What it should be set to is based on your servo. Look up the specs to determine the voltage setting.

I have a CClink, but then again we have 2 CC BEC's & 4 (?) CC ESC's, thus worth it. If you only have the BEC, check your local clubs to see if someone has one that will program your BEC for you.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:55 AM   #3
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Sounds right except you need to maintain a common ground by wiring the ground from the BEC to the receiver. I failed to do this once and burned up the BEC.

The positive from the BEC should be wired to the servo.
The negative from the BEC should be wired to the servo and receiver.
The signal from the BEC does not need to be connected to anything.
The signal from the servo should be wired to the receiver.
The positive,negative, and signal from the ESC will be wired to the receiver.
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scbroder View Post
Sounds right except you need to maintain a common ground by wiring the ground from the BEC to the receiver. I failed to do this once and burned up the BEC.

The positive from the BEC should be wired to the servo.
The negative from the BEC should be wired to the servo and receiver.
The signal from the BEC does not need to be connected to anything.
The signal from the servo should be wired to the receiver.
The positive,negative, and signal from the ESC will be wired to the receiver.
I have no objections to having the BEC ground (black or brown wire) connected to the servo & RX.
I have not had an issue with the BEC ground direct to the servo and no other connection.
You could do either way.

In general, I try to leave the power from the BEC OUT of the RX, let the ESC power the RX up.
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Old 06-05-2011, 10:43 AM   #5
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Thanks Charlie-III and scbroder.

so say I hook bec up minus the black/brown wire hooked up to the Rx and don't get glitch then all IS ok and I have no worries?

and if it does glitch I should thus try hooking that wire into the loop?

love the awesome info you guys dropped down,and cannot wait to put it to practice,thank-you.

edit:servo specs-Control System: +Pulse Width Control 1500usec Neutral
Required Pulse: 4.8-7.4 Volt Peak to Peak Square Wave
Operating Voltage Range: 4.8-7.4 Volts
Operating Temperature Range: -20 to +60 Degree C (-68F to +140F)
perating Speed (4.8V): 0.18 sec/60° at no load
Operating Speed (6.0V): 0.15 sec/60° at no load
Operating Speed (7.4V): 0.13 sec/60° at no load
Stall Torque (4.8V): 344oz/in. (22kg.cm)
Stall Torque (6.0V): 402oz/in. (29kg.cm)
Stall Torque (7.4V): 486oz/in. (35kg.cm)
Operating Angle: 45 Deg. one side pulse traveling 400usec
360 Modifiable: Yes
Direction: Clockwise/Pulse Traveling 1500 to 1900usec
Idle Current Drain (4.8V): 9mA at stop
Idle Current Drain (6.0V): 9mA at stop
Current Drain (4.8V): 220mA/idle and 3.8 amps at lock/stall
Current Drain (6.0V): 300mA/idle and 4.8 amps at lock/stall
Dead Band Width: 1usec
Motor Type: Coreless Carbon Brush
Potentiometer Drive: 6 Slider Indirect Drive
Bearing Type: Dual Ball Bearing MR106
Gear Type: Titanium Gears
Connector Wire Length: 11.81" (300mm)
Dimensions: 1.57" x 0.79"x 1.50" (40 x 20 x 38mm)
Weight: 2.40oz (68g)

So 7.4V is what I'm looking to set the bec to yeah?

Last edited by Mr. crawl; 06-05-2011 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:27 AM   #6
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Yep, 7.4VDC is what you want. The CC BEC's come pre-set at a lower voltage (5VDC??) unless you order from some of the vendors here and REQUEST a higher set voltage.
Otherwise, either ask around in your local crawler group or LHS.
As I mentioned, between myself & my son, we have a number of CC units, thus the cost of the CClink is cheap.
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Old 06-05-2011, 11:57 AM   #7
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thanks charlie,I'm just gonna plan on grabbin a CClink because I much rather have that in my box at my disposal.

Plus dont know any clubs in my area,only met one dude that is on here other then that no one i know is into rc what so ever,well my 8mo. old is he just doesn't know it yet.
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. crawl View Post
thanks charlie,I'm just gonna plan on grabbin a CClink because I much rather have that in my box at my disposal.

Plus dont know any clubs in my area,only met one dude that is on here other then that no one i know is into rc what so ever,well my 8mo. old is he just doesn't know it yet.
That dude will help you out. Save your money and skip on the castle link. You are gonna be using the fxr and getting the hotwire so spend the money there instead. I will set the voltage up for you. Pretty much your gonna set the bec to 7.4v and that will be the last time you ever mess with it. We can get your wiring all set up for ya also. On all my fxrs i personally like to eliminate the internal bec of the fxr and run the bec to power my system. It really helps take the load of the esc and helps keep your temps a lot cooler. With your futaba receiver you can run very high voltages through them reliably. Upwards of 9v iirc.
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:14 PM   #9
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Thanks Dude

4PL Specs-
Number of Channels- 4
Servos included- None
Receiver- R2104GF
Frame Rate- 6.8ms (Operating On S-FHSS)
Model Memory- 40
Fail Safe- All Channels
Display- Backlit 128×64 LCD
Transmitter Powered By- Four AA’s
Input Voltage for Receiver- 3.5 to 8.4 volts DC
4 Wheel Steer- Yes
ABS Braking- Yes
Transmitter Weight (As Measured by BSRC including AA’s)- 511 grams
Street Price- $250

Last edited by Mr. crawl; 06-05-2011 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 06-05-2011, 02:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highlandcrawler View Post
That dude will help you out. Save your money and skip on the castle link. You are gonna be using the fxr and getting the hotwire so spend the money there instead. I will set the voltage up for you.
Thanks for stepping up....this is part of the "sport" of RC.
OP, hope you get the help you need locally, post back here if required.
Have fun.
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Old 06-05-2011, 02:34 PM   #11
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Thank all you guys for at the least taking the couple mins stopping in and offering any info at all.

I will post a pic of the set up after we get it all up and wired,maybe take a few pics along the way hopefully that will help anyone in the future with this set up.
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:16 PM   #12
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so i got most of my electronics and was wondering it the ditstance between the battery-bec-servo really matter?

can it all be short and compact?
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Old 06-09-2011, 07:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. crawl View Post
So, I got most of my electronics and was wondering if the ditstance between the battery-bec-servo really matter?

can it all be short and compact?
Yes it can, for electrical noise issues (or to avoid them) the shorter the wires the better.
You could just coil up the extra wire length & ty-wrap or tape them to keep them compact.
It makes no real difference in performance regarding wire length or spacing/distance.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:15 PM   #14
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Sweet thanks dude!! also was wondering can I wire the BEC strait to the ESC battery post? or do I want it as close to the battery as possible?
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:13 AM   #15
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Does any one can draw a pic about link connection schemes as Mr. crawl said ?...because I'm not come from a English country and it's better to see a pic much easier to me..
Thanks guys.
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:02 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. crawl View Post
Sweet thanks dude!! also was wondering can I wire the BEC strait to the ESC battery post? or do I want it as close to the battery as possible?
No problem.
As to power to the BEC, wherever works for you, the distance is too small to make any real distance.
I always run my BEC output direct to the servo, skip feeding the RX.
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:04 PM   #17
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thanks for all the info!

lol had another Q,is there a micro thermostat i could hook up to a mini fan to kick on at a certain temp?
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