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Old 06-14-2011, 07:06 AM   #1
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Default AE-2 Question

I just got a new Honcho for my nephew and I read the manual before I got it. I noticed that it was defaulted to lipo cutoff and I needed the castle link to change it. I didn't want my sister to have to buy that just to change that one thing so I called around to LHS and Axial and heard conflicting stories. So I ended up letting a LHS change it for me using the castle link and everything was good then. When I got home I took it out and binded the controler and messed around with it and was thinking I needed to caliberate the ESC and noticed that I was changing some of the setting just like my HH ESC. I could say yes or no to the setting. There were three different setting, but I am not sure what they are. I am thinking the first one is volt cutoff and the second drag break and the third reverse type. Is that right? This was a little frustrating because I called Axial and the guy said I needed to use the castle link and I asked him so "I could not change things with out it". and he said "no".

Last edited by LostCrawler; 06-14-2011 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:26 AM   #2
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As far as i know nothing can be changed without it thats why i has to purchase the castle link too
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:16 AM   #3
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Last night when I would hold the throttle and then plug it up it goes into the mode. What I think is reverse type which is the third setting I tried the first choice and the second. The first one lets me reverse and the second choice is no reverse. When I chose the second one and drove it I had no reverse. The second setting had a couple of choices so I am assuming it was the drag break and when I played with it, it change the strength.
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:32 AM   #4
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I believe it uses the same software as the sidewinder, you may want to try to use the TX programming sheet for the sidewinder, or the SV2(same method)
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:02 AM   #5
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Yeah I checked it out first thing this morning. The method is the same as far as changing things I just wondered if anybody knows for sure the different settings. If Volt cutoff is first, drag break second, reverse type third.
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:19 AM   #6
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Guy from Austraila just hacked the stick program for the AE-2!
"I have worked out how to program some features of the AE-2 without using Castle Link. Like the Castle Creation SideWinder ESC, the standard way of getting into the programming mode is as follows. You may want to disconnect your motor from the ESC first to avoid the chance of a runaway.

1. Switch off the ESC
2. Switch on the transmitter and hold full throttle
3. Switch on the ESC
4. Release the throttle AFTER the second series of tones

The ESC uses tones to indicate what Options you are currently accessing and its setting. eg. Option 2 setting 3 will be "beep-beep, pause, beep-beep-beep". You accept the setting for the option by engaging full throttle, or you can go to the next setting by engaging full reverse. Once you have configured the last option, the ESC will emit a series of tones and when that is finished the settings are stored.

There are 3 Options available and here are the Settings available:

Option 1 - LiPo CutOff (I think, please test first)
Setting 1 - Off
Setting 2 - On

Option 2 - Drag Brake
Setting 1 - Off
Setting 2 to 6 - varying degree

Option 3 - Brake/Reverse type
Setting 1 - Forward-Brake-Reverse
Setting 2 - Forward and Brake only
Setting 3 - Forward and immediate reverse

For a crawler using LiPo, the setting would be:

1-2
2-6
3-3
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:28 AM   #7
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Yep thats what I did. Glad someone else has done it. Why hasn't this been brought up or why does Axial say that we need the castle link when we can do it with out. I know there are more things you can mess with with the castle link I understand that and know that is the way to go. But if we don't need it I would rather not spend the $25.
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Old 06-14-2011, 11:45 AM   #8
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I do not own a windows based computer so this was the first question I asked as well. The first time I programed using a friends castle link and if i remember correctly cut off, drag break, and reverse type were the only variables. Now having the stick programing opened up allows me to change programing quickly and easily.
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:23 PM   #9
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Thank you so much for posting this.

I ran out and bought a Castle Link only to discover I can't use it. One of the holes used to plug in the Castle Link is covered by my heatsink.

Thought I was out of luck untill I found this!




Quote:
Originally Posted by grover View Post
Guy from Austraila just hacked the stick program for the AE-2!
"I have worked out how to program some features of the AE-2 without using Castle Link. Like the Castle Creation SideWinder ESC, the standard way of getting into the programming mode is as follows. You may want to disconnect your motor from the ESC first to avoid the chance of a runaway.

1. Switch off the ESC
2. Switch on the transmitter and hold full throttle
3. Switch on the ESC
4. Release the throttle AFTER the second series of tones

The ESC uses tones to indicate what Options you are currently accessing and its setting. eg. Option 2 setting 3 will be "beep-beep, pause, beep-beep-beep". You accept the setting for the option by engaging full throttle, or you can go to the next setting by engaging full reverse. Once you have configured the last option, the ESC will emit a series of tones and when that is finished the settings are stored.

There are 3 Options available and here are the Settings available:

Option 1 - LiPo CutOff (I think, please test first)
Setting 1 - Off
Setting 2 - On

Option 2 - Drag Brake
Setting 1 - Off
Setting 2 to 6 - varying degree

Option 3 - Brake/Reverse type
Setting 1 - Forward-Brake-Reverse
Setting 2 - Forward and Brake only
Setting 3 - Forward and immediate reverse

For a crawler using LiPo, the setting would be:

1-2
2-6
3-3
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hamfist View Post
I can't use it. One of the holes used to plug in the Castle Link is covered by my heatsink.
Strange. It's so simple:
  1. Plug the Castle Link into the receiver lead on your controller and attach the mini USB cable included in the kit.
  2. Connect the USB cable to your PC.
http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...stle_link.html

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Old 06-17-2011, 06:00 PM   #11
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Awesome,I've had my Honcho rtr since 6/13 and love it.I had picked up a used ax10 w/upgrades and had been having fun,now I need to re-think my rock course to include more scale stuff!I think (know) I've done more reading than playing,but I love the info and ideas.I must have spent an hour trying to find this prog. info in the scx10 forum and only found a link to a traxxas sit w/different info. This info worked ! Yeah!

Last edited by shoptech; 06-17-2011 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:47 PM   #12
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Edit - Got it to work! AWESOME

Last edited by Tuskan; 06-19-2011 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:13 PM   #13
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I have a Mac, so I can't use the Castle Link.

I am trying to get my drag brake to work. At some point, it stopped working. Though I can't seem to get it set with the intructions posted above. Am I missing something?
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:10 PM   #14
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There are a couple sets of beeps. I had to try a few times to get mine into the set mode. I had to hold WOT longer than I expected.
One note, for me, when the motor was unplugged there was no beeping from the esc. But if you follow the start up instructions above the wheels never turn (YMMV).
Ever since I have gone into this when I start the truck some times I have to blip the throttle a few times for things to start happening. Occasionally I have to flip the switch again. Might have been better to just leave it alone since I am going to switch to LiPo. I too have a Mac so the link won't work for me. Not that I couldn't load windows on the mac but I really don't want to go that far.
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Daddy View Post
There are a couple sets of beeps. I had to try a few times to get mine into the set mode. I had to hold WOT longer than I expected.
One note, for me, when the motor was unplugged there was no beeping from the esc. But if you follow the start up instructions above the wheels never turn (YMMV).
Ever since I have gone into this when I start the truck some times I have to blip the throttle a few times for things to start happening. Occasionally I have to flip the switch again. Might have been better to just leave it alone since I am going to switch to LiPo. I too have a Mac so the link won't work for me. Not that I couldn't load windows on the mac but I really don't want to go that far.
Thanks for the reply. I tried a few times and I felt like I was doing it right, but still no drag brake. I'll keep trying.
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Old 07-13-2011, 07:59 AM   #16
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Can anyone verify that the lipo cut-off setting mentioned above is the correct one? I just bought some lipos and I want to make sure it is set right so I don't have a CarBQ.
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