GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

[squatch71]

ok, I know this was covered...and honestly I had it written down...but can't find my cheat sheets....we were running the other day and I wasn't really paying attention to what I was doing...I changed my controller between my slash and my summit tranny rig....and changed the two speed settings for the Summit tranny.....now I can't figure out what I did to make it work....it is on the channel three button (just the 2 position) on the GT3B controller....and its set to channel 4 on the receiver...cause channel 3 is for a winch.

any thoughts???

thanks in advance......

[squatch71]

ok...WTF....Now steering is moving my tranny servo...some how I set that up.......channel mix?? CRAP......

[squatch71]

got it.....................

[spillproof]

What was it?
I freaked out when I tried to calibrate my ESC's with a dead battery and posted all over the forums, then went DOH!

[monkeyracing]

Question about the internal voltage: Does the voltage regulator feed the whole remote, or just the 2.4ghz module? I'm wondering because once I install the new firmware, with modified low voltage alarm, I could run 2s lipos I already own, rather than buy 3s batts.

I'm looking to install a switching reg, as well, btw.

[losikid]

It runs the whole remote...you can run a 2s lipo with the vr mod, but you can't go below 6.5 volts with the vr i sell

[squatch71]

Originally Posted by spillproof

What was it?
I freaked out when I tried to calibrate my ESC's with a dead battery and posted all over the forums, then went DOH!

For starters didn't have the (long click) E. Point 4 set to off.....not sure how that happened....and on (long click) REV C was set to MOM and all screwed up.

and Monkey....I have the VR upgrade and I run a 2S 2100mAh in mine...get hours of run time....like we run 3-4 hours of trail riding....no problems at all...

[monkeyracing]

Looks like I'm on the way to setting this up. I've got a few really teensy 1000mah packs to play with for now. losikid, You'll be getting an order from me soon for the VR.

[spillproof]

I understand installing the VR, but how do you wire in the lipo instead of the AAA batteries? Is that another hack?

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by spillproof

I understand installing the VR, but how do you wire in the LiPO instead of the AAA batteries? Is that another hack?

Hardware hack. You need to put a connector on the existing power wires (inside the handle), remove the battery tray and drop in a LiPO. A mini-Deans would probably be a good connector.

[spillproof]

Nice. I guess I will put this on my list. Will the current VR take a lipo, or do you need the Recom VR that does the 6.5-32V input/5v output.

[Deerhurst]

I don't think the current vr will handle a lipo for long. Not will it be efficient.

You don't need to get the recom everyone always suggests. I found a vr similar to the original but just handled a slightly wider range of voltage and output 3 times the amperage.

[squatch71]

Originally Posted by spillproof

I understand installing the VR, but how do you wire in the lipo instead of the AAA batteries? Is that another hack?

Like Charlie said...I use a normal deans connector...that way I only need one plug for the charger.

[marc.]

When will you have the TXs in again?

[MiniMorris]

Originally Posted by spillproof

I understand installing the VR, but how do you wire in the lipo instead of the AAA batteries? Is that another hack?

It's in my hack video.

[JokersWild]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Hardware hack. You need to put a connector on the existing power wires (inside the handle), remove the battery tray and drop in a LiPO. A mini-Deans would probably be a good connector.

I use the futaba plug that came on my lipo to wire it in. You will also need to cut apart the stock battery tray and remove the sides..... Then epoxy them into the sides so the door will slide on and off. Heat up the tab on the end and slightly pull up so it will lock door shut. Looks completely stock on my rig

[Grundy]

If you use this lipo, you can keep the stock AA tray and this will fit inside so you can still use AA's if you get stuck without a charge on your lipo. I have this and it works really well.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...poly_Pack.html

[mudboggin3]

Okay, first I'm sorry if the answer my question is posted in one of the pages of this massive thread, I'm sure it is, but my brain is fried from sorting through so many post. The problem I'm having is getting my receivers to bind to the Tx. When i first got the radio it bound to the Rx with no problem. Now I am trying to bind it again with no luck. I have followed losikids instructions on binding the 6ch Rx to the Tx. I get the solid light, but when i remove power from the Rx and plug it back in I get a quick red blink one time as power is connected to the Rx and then nothing, no light, no response from the the truck. I have tried re-binding it over and over with no luck, I have tried using an extra 6ch Rx I bought use the radio and also the 3ch Rx that came with the Tx. I am stumped and about to throw my truck out the window. I'm sure there is a simple reason its not working and I'm just missing a step or something. Someone please help me out if you can. Also this is a hacked GT3C and it worked fine before. Maybe I need to reflash the radio?


Sorry about all the typos too. I suck at typing

[nappahdog]

OK,

I got the super working with rear steer and dig after chasing my tail and sifting through info , Like losikid said you have to long click NAME and tell the RX how many channels to run. this would be good info to have in the template as the number two thing to do when setting up a super, after 0.6.1 firmware.


NOW, I know i've seen it but i can't find it again how do I set up the ch3 button to center the rear steer on the super?

[losikid]

Why do you have to bind it again?

Your pulling out the bind plug and letting off the bind button before power down correct?