GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

[jaloos]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

When you post up a "programming template" (like Jaloos just did), please also list the TX firmware it's for.
1-It may make it easier to search for
2-Some peeps (like myself..... for now) are running different versions of firmware.

If they have V0.4 and try to program a V0.6 template, things won't look correct and then the questions start.

As to peeps asking questions, listing your firmware when asking for help would be nice.

Not trying to be a PITA.

Thanks.

PS, lots of work travel keeps me from updating my TX firmware.... sigh....

Thanks for the kick in the nuts bud, JK. My bad shoulda had it in there.

[Docwolf]

Is a very good idea

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by jaloos

Thanks for the kick in the nuts bud, JK. My bad shoulda had it in there.

Way back when this thread started, it was not an issue. Now, there are several firmware versions out there. Not everyone has the kit to go to new firmware, others (like myself) may have the kit, just no time.

Of course, this means I should, "Practice what I preach" and make sure the couple templates I have posted also have the firmware version listed.



[Sorry Jaloos, your post was just the closest...... that's all..... ]

[jaloos]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Way back when this thread started, it was not an issue. Now, there are several firmware versions out there. Not everyone has the kit to go to new firmware, others (like myself) may have the kit, just no time.

Of course, this means I should, "Practice what I preach" and make sure the couple templates I have posted also have the firmware version listed.



[Sorry Jaloos, your post was just the closest...... that's all..... ]

Doesn't take long bud, esp with the pin header for the GT3C from losikid, the thing is great.

[norcalmk2]

I'm getting a pop up when I try to flash. Cannot connect to board please check connection or power supply. Green led blinks when when I connect. The only thing is I noticed this the other day. from all I've seen, sb1 and sb2 should be solid without the break in the solder.

Any thoughts?

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

[jaloos]

Try it again using the battery in the TX. I snapped my board so I only use the one side and I use the battery for power.

Got this from somewhere don't remember where but try it.

Plug in radio to programmer
Plug programmer into computer
open up stvp
open up your new firmware
click program tab (it will say couldn't read swim)
Now turn your power button on (nothing should happen (your radio should have batts in it))
Click program tab again
Your done, now unplug the radio and setup your models.

[robertjpjr]

Since this thread is so long this may have been discussed... anyone know the downside of running the gt3b on 2s? Reduced range? Dont care about runtime of radio, more the negative effects of less voltage.

[jaloos]

Originally Posted by robertjpjr

Since this thread is so long this may have been discussed... anyone know the downside of running the gt3b on 2s? Reduced range? Dont care about runtime of radio, more the negative effects of less voltage.

Has your radio been hacked?

If your radio has been hacked and the voltage regulator been done then there is no issue. You can set your low voltage alarm to a lower setting.

If it hasn't I would stick with a 3s LiPo and save any troubles.

[losikid]

Originally Posted by norcalmk2

I'm getting a pop up when I try to flash. Cannot connect to board please check connection or power supply. Green led blinks when when I connect. The only thing is I noticed this the other day. from all I've seen, sb1 and sb2 should be solid without the break in the solder.

Any thoughts?

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

Make sure to follow the install instructions word for word....order is very important.

Plug radio into the programmer
Plug the progammer into the computer
Run STVP
Open the Firmwarefile
Press program then current tab

Originally Posted by jaloos

Try it again using the battery in the TX. I snapped my board so I only use the one side and I use the battery for power.

I recommend against breaking the board...

Originally Posted by robertjpjr

Since this thread is so long this may have been discussed... anyone know the downside of running the gt3b on 2s? Reduced range? Dont care about runtime of radio, more the negative effects of less voltage.

You have to run a new VR (like the one i sell) to run 2s. However, the VR i sell will only work down to 6.5 volts so you need to set your LVA to 6.5V.
Otherwise there are no other consequences.

[norcalmk2]

[QUOTE=losikid;4530240]Make sure to follow the install instructions word for word....order is very important.

Plug radio into the programmer
Plug the progammer into the computer
Run STVP
Open the Firmwarefile
Press program then current tab




Thank you. I will try it again....does the board look ok. I didn't burn it up or anything?

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk

[jaloos]

Originally Posted by losikid

I recommend against breaking the board...

I had issues connecting till I snapped the board. In hindsight probably wasn't a great idea but it did enable me to connect.

[losikid]

Thank you. I will try it again....does the board look ok. I didn't burn it up or anything?

SB1 and SB2 are supposed to desoldered

[robertjpjr]

Ya my radio is hacked, with the voltage regulator also. I know how to lower the alarm cutoff. Just wondering if there are any adverse effects in doing so. As I said, less range, interference of any sort..
Side note - when I use my servo winch on channel 3 trim buttons I get motor lunge. The vehicle jerks forward or backward for a split second.
I calibrated the TX. Reset my throttle calibration on the ESC (Castle Sidewinder SCT) still happens. My antenna is free of obstructions. Near the ESC though. Not super close.
Any thoughts or input would be appreciated!

[jaloos]

Are your winch and servo running off the bec in the esc? or are you using a separate bec like the castle bec?

If your running both of the esc bec power you may be drawing too much current and leaving the receiver low on power causing glitches.

[robertjpjr]

Thats a good point. Castle and BEC's.. I havent heard great things about them. This is my first Castle ESC (Got in trade used) Anyways, I'm sure thats it. It happens all the time. When crawling or activating the winch. I was just messing around with it now. Lunges forward or backward at will.
Ill have to try and get a bec or run my servos off a battery direct. Ease some of the current load.
Thanks for the hint, didn't remember about the BEC.

[jaloos]

Originally Posted by robertjpjr

Thats a good point. Castle and BEC's.. I havent heard great things about them. This is my first Castle ESC (Got in trade used) Anyways, I'm sure thats it. It happens all the time. When crawling or activating the winch. I was just messing around with it now. Lunges forward or backward at will.
Ill have to try and get a bec or run my servos off a battery direct. Ease some of the current load.
Thanks for the hint, didn't remember about the BEC.

The standalone BEC is well worth the 20 buck investment.

Try it without the servos connected. You will be able to test the esc without the added load, you will only be able to go in straight lines for the test but it will tell ya if the problem is power draw off your esc's bec.

[robertjpjr]

Ya thats what I was doing. Unplugged both servos, seems fine. Using channel 1 for either servo seems mostly fine. Maybe a time or two only. Used channel 3 for either servo and it twitches. I imagine its because its 0 to 100% to -100% and its pulling more amp load than the bec can handle. The battery is a 3s at the moment 25c but it was happening on all my other batts of different c value and 2s. I appreciate your quick responses guys! Guess I'll be buy a BEC or two for my rigs. These Solar servos are cheap but strong as nails! Maybe thats why theyre so stinking noisy?!!?

[jaloos]

Originally Posted by robertjpjr

Ya thats what I was doing. Unplugged both servos, seems fine. Using channel 1 for either servo seems mostly fine. Maybe a time or two only. Used channel 3 for either servo and it twitches. I imagine its because its 0 to 100% to -100% and its pulling more amp load than the bec can handle. The battery is a 3s at the moment 25c but it was happening on all my other batts of different c value and 2s. I appreciate your quick responses guys! Guess I'll be buy a BEC or two for my rigs. These Solar servos are cheap but strong as nails! Maybe thats why theyre so stinking noisy?!!?

I got a few Savox high end servos that probably make your Solar seem quiet lol.


Try knocking the 3rd channel down to say 75 instead of 100 and see where that lands ya. You may be winding the servo past where it really wants to go.

[robertjpjr]

Its on a continuous rotation. I think its the bec like you suggssted. Ordered castle bec and link programmer. Hopefully it all clears up.

[jaloos]

Originally Posted by robertjpjr

Its on a continuous rotation. I think its the bec like you suggssted. Ordered castle bec and link programmer. Hopefully it all clears up.

Let me know how it works out for ya.

John