GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

[losikid]

Originally Posted by Jwebb2.5rs

havent got the m2 yet was thinkin about it im just not that good with the whole electronics part of crawling

Dual esc is alot better option, and takes about 30 extra seconds to setup in the gt3b

Not much harder to wire in a crawler.

and gives you alot more options

[highlandcrawler]

So it looks like my biasing demons followed over to the fresh model just the same. This clip is just a very minor example of what is going on. When the truck is on the rocks with a load the strange things are far more drastic. Like when the biasing decides to catch up sometimes it will leap it comes on so hard. Sometimes the front or rear motor wont wanna come back until 3/4 throttle or so. This video is very bad as I just dont have enough hands to work with lol

http://youtu.be/xVv570V5RtU

[highlandcrawler]

Originally Posted by losikid

Dual ESC Mixing Template: (0.3.2 and 0.4.0 fw's)

Ch3 trim-Momentary 3 postion dig
D/R-Bias with 20% step rate

• Turn radio on
• press enter
• scroll till E. Points highlighted
• Press and hold enter for 1.5 seconds
• E. point should now be blinking
• scroll so "d" is blinking (far left)
• press enter
• scroll till 3 is blinking
• press enter
• make sure 0 is blinking, if not scroll so it is
• Press and hold enter for 1 second
• Scroll so REV is highlighted
• Press and hold enter for 1.5 seconds
• Rev should now be blinking
• Scroll so 3 is blinking
• press enter
• Scroll so DIG is blinking
• press enter
• scroll to MOM
• press enter
• Scroll so NOR is blinking
• press enter
• scroll so PRV is blinking
• press enter
• scroll so d is blinking
• press enter
• scroll to DIG
• press enter
• scroll so RES is blinking
• press enter
• scroll to 20
• press enter
• scroll so NOR is blinking
• press enter
• scroll so N00 is Blinking
• press enter
• press and hold enter for 1.5 seconds
• press end

Plug front into CH2
Plug rear into CH2

Plug your battery in, and calibrate your esc's

That is awesome. I think the only thing you could do would be hold my hand . At the bottom where you say what to plug into you have both escs going to ch2

[losikid]

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

So it looks like my biasing demons followed over to the fresh model just the same. This clip is just a very minor example of what is going on. When the truck is on the rocks with a load the strange things are far more drastic. Like when the biasing decides to catch up sometimes it will leap it comes on so hard. Sometimes the front or rear motor wont wanna come back until 3/4 throttle or so. This video is very bad as I just dont have enough hands to work with lol

http://youtu.be/xVv570V5RtU

I want to say your motors, or esc's are f'd up or you have a bad connection somewhere.

have you tried 0.3.2?

[losikid]

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

That is awesome. I think the only thing you could do would be hold my hand .

I was thinking about it, and to increase it further i should do it harley style with a video.

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

At the bottom where you say what to plug into you have both escs going to ch2

i fixed it

[losikid]

i'll flash 0.4.0 tomorrow to mine, see if it does it to me.

But i think your problems are elsewhere.

[highlandcrawler]

Originally Posted by losikid

I want to say your motors, or esc's are f'd up or you have a bad connection somewhere.

have you tried 0.3.2?

Speedos are new in the mail yesterday direct from castle still with new stock labels. Motors are Holmes motors with 1 comp and a couple hrs practice. they have new brushes also. Im using bullets for motor connection and deans at the battery all have good joint and no cold joint either. I haven't tried the other firmware yet.

[losikid]

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

they have new brushes also. .

did you install the brushes? did you break them in..do they fit tight in the hood?

[highlandcrawler]

Originally Posted by losikid

did you install the brushes? did you break them in..do they fit tight in the hood?

Yes I installed them. I had a problem with the stock ones. I got ahold of Eddieo and he told me the best ones to get for my application. Com was cut fresh for its first time then broken in on 4v. They are not tight in the hood but they are correctly seated and move in and out freely. Where can I get the other firmware you suggested?

[losikid]

I just reflashed mine to 0.4.0 and copied your settings.

I don't have these problems...i'm running hh br-xls (basically castle, i think) and rebadged broods

[losikid]

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

Yes I installed them. I had a problem with the stock ones. I got ahold of Eddieo and he told me the best ones to get for my application. Com was cut fresh for its first time then broken in on 4v. They are not tight in the hood but they are correctly seated and move in and out freely. Where can I get the other firmware you suggested?

I asked if they're tight to see if the brushes are sticking


here's an archive of all the old fw's...

http://www.overkillrc.com/apps/links/

[losikid]

Turn off the mix, and see if ch 2 will work each esc without it only working part of the time

I'm pretty confident you have problems else where...

[highlandcrawler]

I will skip the software then if yours didn't do it. I will swap in a set of broods i have here and see if than makes a difference. The motors don't do anything odd or any of the electronics really until the biasing comes into the picture. I can drive around and dig just fine until I start mixing.

[losikid]

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

I will skip the software then if yours didn't do it. I will swap in a set of broods i have here and see if than makes a difference. The motors don't do anything odd or any of the electronics really until the biasing comes into the picture. I can drive around and dig just fine until I start mixing.

then how do you explain 0:35 to 0:52???

[highlandcrawler]

Originally Posted by losikid

Turn off the mix, and see if ch 2 will work each esc without it only working part of the time

I'm pretty confident you have problems else where...

Long click on e.point, scroll to d press enter then turn it to off? Is that correct?

[losikid]

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

Long click on e.point, scroll to d press enter then turn it to off? Is that correct?

yes

[highlandcrawler]

Originally Posted by losikid

then how do you explain 0:35 to 0:52???

exactly I cant. That is one of the biggest problems. I can drive all over just fine with both front and rear dig and drain a battery with 0 issue. But if I start using the mixing things do just like in the video.

[highlandcrawler]

Originally Posted by losikid

Turn off the mix, and see if ch 2 will work each esc without it only working part of the time

I'm pretty confident you have problems else where...

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

Long click on e.point, scroll to d press enter then turn it to off? Is that correct?

Originally Posted by losikid

yes

When I do that my rear esc wont arm when I turn them on

[losikid]

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

exactly I cant. That is one of the biggest problems. I can drive all over just fine with both front and rear dig and drain a battery with 0 issue. But if I start using the mixing things do just like in the video.

but at :32-:52 there isn't no bias, your at zero.

so what do you mean by you can drive around with no mixing?

[losikid]

Originally Posted by highlandcrawler

When I do that my rear esc wont arm when I turn them on

test 1 esc at a time in ch 2 port...this is to test to see if you have problems else where in your system