GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

[erikblank]

I've ran 2 MMPs', 2 Sidewinders, 2 BRXLs' and 2 FXRs'. All work perfect. Are channels 2 and 3 reversed under the servo setting on the radio? I did have set them to reverse to get the MMPs' to work.

[BELADOG]

LOl! I told him that his answer was a surprise, especially since there are many people on multiple forums running the same combo.

He was reluctant to help me any further after I said the name FlY Sky, and it was obvious I was going to get nowhere with them at that point.

I'm determined to get this to work! My programming skills are atrocious and I'm gonna need some help.
I really appreciate the help and feedback so far. Thanks.

The calibration #s are
fwd:29
Neu:617
Rev:879


I have no Idea if that's normal or not but it's where they landed after I held position for a few seconds before entering them in.


And yes, Ch.2 is set to rev.

[squatch71]

two MMP's, one Micro Sidewinder, one side winder V2.....flawless.....they are feeding you crap...

[BELADOG]

OK! Tried Syncing with model #4 and it took calibration!
No luck on 1, 2 or 3 but for some reason 4 is a jem.

My B/N 18.5 Ballistic is shorting on the sensor board or something...(cogging and making awful noise) but the MMP is now rounding third base with the GT3B

Just got a email from Novac, said they would send out a new motor tomorrow!

any ideas why model numbers 1,2 and 3 wont allow sync? If they are useless thats cool, but I would like to be able to use them if possible.

My faith has been restored. I shall never doubt my sweet GT3B again

Im gonna put in a call to Castle in the morning

[losikid]

Originally Posted by BELADOG

OK! Tried Syncing with model #4 and it took calibration!
No luck on 1, 2 or 3 but for some reason 4 is a jem.

My B/N 18.5 Ballistic is shorting on the sensor board or something...(cogging and making awful noise) but the MMP is now rounding third base with the GT3B

Just got a email from Novac, said they would send out a new motor tomorrow!

any ideas why model numbers 1,2 and 3 wont allow sync? If they are useless thats cool, but I would like to be able to use them if possible.

My faith has been restored. I shall never doubt my sweet GT3B again

Im gonna put in a call to Castle in the morning

Model's shouldn't be causing any issues unless you have corrupt data in there somehow and the radio can't output a good signal...you could try flashing an older firmware v0.3.0 for example, then flash 0.4.1 again and this should wipe the slate clean and give you fresh firmware to work with....there's been afew cases where re flashing fixes issues

[BELADOG]

Originally Posted by losikid

...you could try flashing an older firmware v0.3.0 for example, then flash 0.4.1 again and this should wipe the slate clean and give you fresh firmware to work with....there's been afew cases where re flashing fixes issues

Will do! Thanks again.

[BELADOG]

just curious. Do the cal #s above sound ok?

[losikid]

Originally Posted by BELADOG

just curious. Do the cal #s above sound ok?

Yea, perfect...numbers are steady and consistent correct?

Reason i mentioned it is because i got a bunch of radios in with bad throttle pots

[BELADOG]

they stay fairly steady after a few seconds. They bounce between two or three digits in either direction once held. but its not sporadic or fast.

I heard about your mis-fortune with the radios. If you need any help let me know.

[losikid]

Originally Posted by BELADOG

they stay fairly steady after a few seconds. They bounce between two or three digits in either direction once held. but its not sporadic or fast.

yep, perfectly normal

[titaniumlegz]

What will be the eta for the hacked radios that are ordered? Just trying to get an idea of when I could expect mine.

Sent from my ATRIX 4G

[losikid]

Originally Posted by titaniumlegz

What will be the eta for the hacked radios that are ordered? Just trying to get an idea of when I could expect mine.

Sent from my ATRIX 4G

1-2 weeks...the radios that are currently ordered and thats out 1-2 weeks will see about a week delay because i had abunch faulty units come in

[Francois]

Originally Posted by losikid

I never got around to posting this last night...but some of the pre-hacked orders may take abit longer than normal. I had 10 gt3b's coming from hobbypartz and 6 of them didn't work! 4 of them had fawked up power buttons and 2 of them had fawked up throttle pots. So i have more on order and still trying to figure out the best plan of attack to get hobbypartz to replace them. Anyways, there may be a delay in getting these out, sorry.

I haven t seen....10 units and 6 inop......means 4 are good so I ll going to have mine.....quickly...LOL


---
I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=30.078801,-95.460116

[titaniumlegz]

Originally Posted by losikid

1-2 weeks...the radios that are currently ordered and thats out 1-2 weeks will see about a week delay because i had abunch faulty units come in

Thanks man. That is what I needed to know. I can't wait to get it!

Sent from my ATRIX 4G

[The Doktor]

Hi, losikid. I recently ordered a programmer, voltage regulator, and steering bearing kit for my GT3B, and was quite impressed by the speed with which you delivered it. I installed the header and the software for the programmer, and flashed the 0.4.1 6ch firmware without any problem. I am running Win7 Ultimate x64, and did not require any software patches or compatibility modes. It just installed and worked as it should. I have not yet done the voltage regulator mod, I wanted to see if I like the radio before doing that. I also haven't done the steering bearing mod, because I do not have the proper reamer, so I have to wait until I get another job off my Bridgeport and then I can do it with the boring bar. It's not exactly a critical modification, so I can wait.

The first thing I am trying this in is a Kyosho Blizzard SR. In case you are not familiar with this vehicle, it is a tracked snow vehicle with a plow. Blizzard SR

Anyway, I got it hooked up and working, but I can't get the mix to work quite as I think it should. There are two things which I believe are wrong. First, the tracks will not move just by turning the steering wheel, even if you turn it all the way to it's stops. The tracks only move if you pull the trigger. Second, the steering is extremely sensitive. Even at full throttle, one of the tracks will stop moving when you turn the wheel about a quarter of its travel in either direction.

I have the ESC's on channel 1 and 2, the servo for the plow is operated on channel 3. I followed the portion of the directions below which I have highlighted in green(at least if I posted this correctly).here is how I set it up:
I scrolled to E. POINT and pressed a long enter.
It started blinking, and I scroll to d. I hit enter.
I scroll it till the number 1 is flashing. I hit enter.
It is now flashing zero. I can select either 1 or -1, but I can't usually get it to select zero again. It doesn't really matter, whatever I selected, it will be zero again whenever I come back to it.
I give a long push to get out of this menu.

As D/R is mentioned, I try entering the menu, both by a long and a short enter. Regardless of whether I use a long or short enter to get into that menu, the only thing it does is reduces steering or throttle sensitivity, it does not seem to affect the mix at all. Am I missing something here, or will this mix not work the way I want to?

I really like being able to run that tracks in opposite directions without any forward or backward movement, is a fun thing to do when in deep snow. Can you explain to me how to achieve this, if it is possible?



- mixes 4WS, DIG, throttle brake cut-off (for boats with forward-only
throttle), Multi-Position (to set arbitrary up to 8 positions)
> choose menu EPOINT and press ENTER-long
> menu EPOINT will blink
> select one of mixes 4WS (4), DIG (d), brake cut-off (b),
multi-position (P)
for mixes 4WS, DIG:
> press ENTER and choose channel for this mix or OFF
- for dual-ESC steering (boat, tank, ...) select DIG channel 1 and
with D/R reduce required ESC travel (at 100% it will go to contra
to allow steering at place)
> press ENTER and set mix in range -100...0...100 %
0% is default and means both channel have same max steering/throttle
100% means 100% reduce on rear steering/throttle (eg. no steering)
-100% means 100% reduce on front steering/throttle (eg. no steering)


thanks
Ed

[skinner]

I owned a kyosho blizzard and had a traxxas am radio installed. If I remember correct the tracks only move when trigger applied. When you steer the servo pushes disc brake on side applied to make track slow down or stop creating it to turn. Some thing like that , its been awhile since sold it.

[skinner]

Edit--didn't realize the Sr version you have. You may have to tell us how the og radio that came with the kit worked ( if was rtr) so can get better idea how to get the Gt3b to work it.

[benoj]

when i used the dig steering on my gt3b on my tracked excavator (1 esc per side) you have to pull the trigger for it to move, the steering wheel changes the mix %. the way it should work is as you turn the wheel that track side should slow down with small steering input and around half or so stop and at full that sides esc should go into reverse allowing it to go in a circle. do the escs you are using have fwd/brake/rev? the escs i used did but didnt need a double tap to do reverse so that may be part of your problem. tomorrow if i remeber i will look at how i have my gt3b setting for the mix on mine.

[The Doktor]

skinner, your Blizzard was an older model which used just a single motor. You are correct, it could not turn in place, you had to pull the trigger to make it go. The Blizzard SR is more like the original Blizzard which came out back in the 80s, it has a pair of 380 size motors. On the SR, each track has its own separate motor and transmission, they are not interconnected in any way. Each motor is looked up to its own ESC, and each ESC plugged into its own channel on the receiver.

The SR is available only as an RTR, it is runnable but not very nice out of the package. The supplied transmitter is a two stick, four channel aircraft radio. Both sticks are centered by springs in each direction, it does not have friction on the throttle channel like most airplane or helicopter radios do. It is an extremely basic four channel transmitter, there is no mixing whatsoever. As it arrives, each stick controls one of the tracks. You move both sticks to the same position to go straightforward or straight backwards,move into slightly different positions for a gradual turn, or move them in opposite directions to just sit in place and spin. The plow is operated by the right sticks side to side "aileron" type of movement. To make things even less enjoyable, the ESCs are the type where you have to move the stick to reverse, back to neutral, and then back to reverse again to get it to go in reverse. I asked somebody at Kyosho if that "feature" could be disabled, they said it could not.

It is not a great deal of fun to drive in that stock configuration, I didn't even run a complete battery pack through it before I was tired of that. For my first upgrade, I used an OrangeRX 6ch receiver and my Spektrum DX6i TX. I use the throttle on the left stick to operate the plow, and use the right stick for forward/reverse and turning. The DX6i allows you to add two custom mixes. I mixed the elevator movement to both channels equally, and the aileron movement differentially. This provides very nice maneuvering capabilities, except I really didn't like driving with a stick radio. The original ESCs still suck!

Now I've got it set up with the GT3B as described above. Obviously, the original ESCs suck as bad as ever. Other than that, I like driving it best with this radio. A steering wheel and a trigger just feels more natural for driving a land vehicle. I can live with it as it is now, but would like to improve it. The description in the GT3B hack manual sounds like it describes a mix where it will turn in place. But I have not been able to achieve that, which is why I'm asking if it is possible with the current firmware.

I've got two brushless motors and two ESCs coming Wednesday, and I am hoping to have everything figured out by then. Set up in rock crawler mode, the new ESCs will go into reverse instantly. That will leave me with the only annoyance being the current mix not being exactly what I want. I also have a v-tail mixer coming with my order, I believe this will provide the exact mix I want, although I strongly prefer to leave the extra part out and do the mixing right in the transmitter.

Any help you folks can give will be greatly appreciated.


Ed

[losikid]

in the steering mix all the wheel does is slow down one side or the other creating a steering affect...

I've never played with this, but benoj said his goes in reverse so your double tap esc's are what's preventing that