GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

[losikid]

Originally Posted by Chevdog

I switched rx's out since I have another, and now my esc try's to calibrate but says that the signal is too weak. I am trying to hook into 2 fxr's with a cc bec set at 6 volts and a fluent 3 channel rx.

How is a signal too weak?

[Chevdog]

Yes, steering works

[Chevdog]

On the fxr it will blink 3 LEDs if radio signal is found but lower than expected.

[losikid]

Originally Posted by Chevdog

On the fxr it will blink 3 LEDs if radio signal is found but lower than expected.

have you calibrated the esc's to the radio?

One Touch Radio Calibration
1) Turn on transmitter.
2) Turn on speed control.
3) Press and hold the MODE button on the speed control for
3 seconds. All LEDs will blink red 3 times with 3 chimes.
The speed control will make a pulsing chime as it looks
for a neutral signal—you do not need to do anything yet.
4) When NEUTRAL position is found and recorded, LED4
will flash and a confirmation chime will sound.
5) The pulsing chime will begin again and LED6 will flash;
pull transmitter trigger to the full thro le position and
hold until the confirmation chime sounds.
6) The pulsing chime will begin again and LED1 will flash;
push transmitter trigger to the full brake position and hold
until the confirmation chime sounds.
7) Release trigger to return to the neutral position. LEDs
will flash and the Arming Sequence chime will sound.
8 ) LED4 is now on, flashing to LED1. Calibration is
complete and you are ready to drive!

[Chevdog]

That's what I'm grind to do, it will initiate the sequence, but then it will either flash three LEDs or it will just keep blinking the 4th led trying to find neutral. It seems very inconsistent.

[Chevdog]

I don't know what I did, but it finally armed and everything seems to be working, thanks.

[benoj]

Originally Posted by losikid

Yes, this is because the channel starts to overlap into the 2nd channel.

Its not a firmware issue, its a hardware issue. Which can't be fixed cheaply (it be alot cheaper just to get a adapter from servocity)

ok thats fine, i just wanted to be sure there wasnt a problem with it. thanks

[cyprinhunter]

losikid , i have one of your GT3B , it s a very good radio and a very good job, thanks a lot !

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by losikid

ok well when i broke mine in two it gave me worse fits than when they were together. So if you have broken yours in two, and it still won't read swim, here's the procedure i have had to do.

Plug in radio to programmer
Plug programmer into computer
open up stvp
open up your new firmware
click program tab (it will say couldn't read swim)
Now turn your power button on (nothing should happen (your radio should have batts in it))
Click program tab again
Your done, now unplug the radio and setup your models.

Ok, I got my GT3B, and my programmer, and did all the mods to it (bearing, VR, film flip, etc.)
I broke the STM8S in two (because up till yesterday nothing I saw showed anyone having any issues with broken boards) and configured STVP correctly, but STVP wont read it.
I tried the newest version of STVP 4.03, and then tried 4.02, then with the 4.02 patch, still nothing. (Windows 7 64 bit)
I tried the above procedure, still nothing. I get the red light on the ST8MS showing that STVP can detect it, but when I try to program or anything I get:

"Error : Cannot communicate with the device !
Check the SWIM cable connection and check all the needed pin connections on the SWIM connector."

I made sure the pins were correctly connected in the right way. Still nothing. Tried everything on the GF's Win7 64bit computer, still nothing. So, I got XP mode working on my computer, and still same error.

I have two of these radios, so I tried all these procedures on both radios, still same error.


So, any ideas on what I am doing wrong? Did I mess up the board when I broke it in half, and now I need to get a new STM8S?

[losikid]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

Ok, I got my GT3B, and my programmer, and did all the mods to it (bearing, VR, film flip, etc.)
I broke the STM8S in two (because up till yesterday nothing I saw showed anyone having any issues with broken boards) and configured STVP correctly, but STVP wont read it.
I tried the newest version of STVP 4.03, and then tried 4.02, then with the 4.02 patch, still nothing. (Windows 7 64 bit)
I tried the above procedure, still nothing. I get the red light on the ST8MS showing that STVP can detect it, but when I try to program or anything I get:

"Error : Cannot communicate with the device !
Check the SWIM cable connection and check all the needed pin connections on the SWIM connector."

I made sure the pins were correctly connected in the right way. Still nothing. Tried everything on the GF's Win7 64bit computer, still nothing. So, I got XP mode working on my computer, and still same error.

I have two of these radios, so I tried all these procedures on both radios, still same error.


So, any ideas on what I am doing wrong? Did I mess up the board when I broke it in half, and now I need to get a new STM8S?

when did you get your board? I did have a bad batch that went out. Why did you break your board?

and there are batteries in your radio when turning it on correct?

When the board is broken off, the programmer doesn't power the radio on its own. But if you don't "activate" the programmer before turning on the radio then it can't communicate because it can't interrupt the radios computer chip. So you have to press program to get the red led, then turn the radio on (with power) and press program again.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by losikid

when did you get your board? I did have a bad batch that went out. Why did you break your board?

and there are batteries in your radio when turning it on correct?

When the board is broken off, the programmer doesn't power the radio on its own. But if you don't "activate" the programmer before turning on the radio then it can't communicate because it can't interrupt the radios computer chip. So you have to press program to get the red led, then turn the radio on (with power) and press program again.

I ordered the board from mouser on the 18th, and got it right before Christmas. Wonder if it was from the same batch. I thought I read on this thread that the package looked different, do you happen to have a pic of both packages so I can compare to what I have here?

I broke the board because the instructions on the GT3B hacks page on rctech said to do that, and I thought the rest of the board was pointless for this purpose. I guess I could try to resolder the board back together, there's only a few tracks that need to be reconnected. (Might be worth it to just buy a new board.)

There are fresh batteries in the radio when I am trying to program.

When I plug the programmer in, the red led is off, then I press program, the red led comes on (to activate it), but still nothing, so I turn the radio on (although when I do this, the display does not come on) and try to program it, still says it can't connect. If I have the radio on, then plug it in, the backlight immediately turns off, but the display stays up.

[losikid]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

I ordered the board from mouser on the 18th, and got it right before Christmas. Wonder if it was from the same batch. I thought I read on this thread that the package looked different, do you happen to have a pic of both packages so I can compare to what I have here?

I broke the board because the instructions on the GT3B hacks page on rctech said to do that, and I thought the rest of the board was pointless for this purpose. I guess I could try to resolder the board back together, there's only a few tracks that need to be reconnected. (Might be worth it to just buy a new board.)

There are fresh batteries in the radio when I am trying to program.

When I plug the programmer in, the red led is off, then I press program, the red led comes on (to activate it), but still nothing, so I turn the radio on (although when I do this, the display does not come on) and try to program it, still says it can't connect. If I have the radio on, then plug it in, the backlight immediately turns off, but the display stays up.

Old packaging is just rectangular for the most part with a small bump for the usb. New packaging has a more intricate pop out for the board.

There's a reason why i don't use the rctech instructions . I spent alot of time making sure everything was as simple as it could be and look good.

Your board doesn't act like its bad, I'd say its a bad connection somewhere or the computer. are you sure all the connections are correct? and good

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by losikid

Old packaging is just rectangular for the most part with a small bump for the usb. New packaging has a more intricate pop out for the board.

There's a reason why i don't use the rctech instructions . I spent alot of time making sure everything was as simple as it could be and look good.

Your board doesn't act like its bad, I'd say its a bad connection somewhere or the computer. are you sure all the connections are correct? and good

Here's a quick cell pick of the package:





I got lost in the hundreds of posts on this and the other thread. I didn't realize the RCTech instructions were that bad.

I bought a brand new USB A to USB B cable, and the 4 pin cable came from my old desktop computer, but I checked connectivity on all 4 pins, and it's fine. I was going to make a new cable, but the connectors I ordered didn't come with pins (even though the vague description appeared to) and I had the other one lying around.

I don't think it's the computer, since I tried it on the other computer. I guess I can try a new USB A-B cable from my printer, and try to find a way to make a new 4 pin cable. (Unless you think the above pic is a board from the bad batch.)

[Krawler23]

Hey guys, i just bought and received my hacked gt3b. I am running dual fxr's and am wondering what all the setting should be on it and basically the general setup. This is my first nice radio so i have no clue what i am doing. Thanks so much!!

[spoo76]

Originally Posted by Krawler23

Hey guys, i just bought and received my hacked gt3b. I am running dual fxr's and am wondering what all the setting should be on it and basically the general setup. This is my first nice radio so i have no clue what i am doing. Thanks so much!!

check out the link on the first page
GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

[losikid]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

Here's a quick cell pick of the package:





I got lost in the hundreds of posts on this and the other thread. I didn't realize the RCTech instructions were that bad.

I bought a brand new USB A to USB B cable, and the 4 pin cable came from my old desktop computer, but I checked connectivity on all 4 pins, and it's fine. I was going to make a new cable, but the connectors I ordered didn't come with pins (even though the vague description appeared to) and I had the other one lying around.

I don't think it's the computer, since I tried it on the other computer. I guess I can try a new USB A-B cable from my printer, and try to find a way to make a new 4 pin cable. (Unless you think the above pic is a board from the bad batch.)

Thats the new packaging

I'm just wondering...why'd you source all the parts else where for the hack?

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by losikid

I'm just wondering...why'd you source all the parts else where for the hack?

Maybe because he didn't know you were the DUDE on this radio/hack???

I have to say, you do a great job supporting this radio, especially not being on their staff.

[monkeyracer]

Originally Posted by losikid

Thats the new packaging

I'm just wondering...why'd you source all the parts else where for the hack?

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Maybe because he didn't know you were the DUDE on this radio/hack???

If you saw our TQ/CT6 threads, you'd know that I know Austin is a good guy.

I ordered everything from mouser since I thought you were out of stock of some of the parts, and I was able to get everything needed to do both radios, with the radios themselves for under $100 total shipped. (Although, looking back at my PMs, you were saying you had the stuff, just not packaged and ready to ship... damn.)

I was working all day, so I haven't tried to troubleshoot why mine wasn't working, so I will update what I find.
I did just get my steering wheel finally from China today, and the foam for it is nice. Softer than the rubber that comes with it, and the aluminum wheel is really nice. I'll take a pic when I get the programming figured out.

[losikid]

Originally Posted by monkeyracer

If you saw our TQ/CT6 threads, you'd know that I know Austin is a good guy.

I ordered everything from mouser since I thought you were out of stock of some of the parts, and I was able to get everything needed to do both radios, with the radios themselves for under $100 total shipped. (Although, looking back at my PMs, you were saying you had the stuff, just not packaged and ready to ship... damn.)

I was working all day, so I haven't tried to troubleshoot why mine wasn't working, so I will update what I find.
I did just get my steering wheel finally from China today, and the foam for it is nice. Softer than the rubber that comes with it, and the aluminum wheel is really nice. I'll take a pic when I get the programming figured out.

Yea, i've been behind lately, but most orders go out within afew days. I probaly ought to go change stock status. I forget todo this often. I'll have something in stock and forget my website says out of stock Right now i have 5 kits ready to go

[monkeyracer]

Ok, it was my damn 4 pin cable. I grabbed it out of my old ATX computer case, checked for continuity and figured each wire was in the correct order. Didn't check for cross-continuity though. Turns out pins 2 and 3 were connected to each other in the cable I had. Welp, I guess I should have just made my own from the beginning, and now that I know that was it, I am going to make one for future programming.

I ended up programming the radios with the pins directly touching each other (awkwardly held the programmer up to the header on the radio so that all 4 pins were touching...)

Now I get to read through Austin's manual about settings and start looking into Dual ESC, etc. I have a friend that was looking into getting a radio like this, so I am definitely sending him to OKRC to get it done.

I wish there was an easy way to get the steering wheel closer to the radio. I really don't like the drop that much, makes it a little far to reach the buttons on the top by the display for access to those channels. Maybe I can make something custom... I also don't like the throttle trigger that much, so maybe I can harvest one from the GT2 or another remote. Also, now I need to find a way to mount a camera for those solo runs that I want to tape...