Wiring a ESC hot.
 

This may seem like a dumb question, but since I don't know how, I'm going to ask.

I've got a Mongoose brushless system that the the wires to the on/off switch keeps falling out of. Instead of screwing around with this all of the time, I just want to be able to plug the battery in and have it on.

Is it as easy as turning it on and cutting the wires? (doubtful) How can I do this?

Solder together the red and black wires that go to the switch. That's all that you have to do.

I hate power switches too, they are always the first to fail.

Thanks, Ashton!

no prob, bob "thumbsup"

I hard wire all my ESCs on too. The TorqueMaster doesn't even come with an on/off switch.

you should with no issue be able to cross the wires and be on. There are some ESC's that the switch is NC instead on NO and if you cross the wire it shuts the ESC off. I came across one not to long ago that was set up that way.

That blows! I'm guessing it isn't a crawler esc. I've had a Rooster CE, Mongoose Micro, Sidewinder 1/10 & FXRs done this way with no problems.

You just cut them off and be done with it, no soldering involved"thumbsup" I think it be easier/better

Nice to meet bob"thumbsup"

Really? I've never heard of that.

+9 on chopping off the switch and shorting the wires, I do this to most new controllers as they come outta the box. Some controllers have cal buttons on the switch so no choppy, been trying to stay away from those anyway

Thanks jrh for omitting the switch on the brxl, now where's the brushless controller and sensored outrunner? :mrgreen:

I believe you need the switch with the Castle Sidewinder to calibrate the radio. Same thing with Novak that you need the on/off switch to program the ESC.

So before you go chopping off wires check the manual to see if the switch is used for calibration or programming. I do know that the Kyosho RTR ESC uses the switch to program the reverse and Lipo cutoff.

The switch helps with radio calibration, but if you have an extra set of hands or if you are really good with your fingers it can be done without. You just have to hold your throttle down and figure out a way to plug your battery up at the same time. :ror: "thumbsup"

Pull the trigger before you connect battery. It gets easier to do after the first time and well worth the trouble to do with the lack of headaches a switch causes

and to add, make sure your truck is on jackstands to avoid any mishaps. A 5.5lb rock crawler at full throttle right into the wall off of your work table is no fun. :ror:

Or doing an endo off the work table after letting the throttle go from 2nd gear with 213% drag :lmao:

Yeah.. it gets pretty violent. Before you know your are trying to catch it in mid-air, tools and parts are flying everywhere, other people in your home duck for cover to hide from the impending doom, you know.

+1, I do this all the time on my rigs, all their on/off switches have been deleted. One less failure mode."thumbsup""thumbsup"

PS, all the ESC's I have, the on/off switch is "NO" (normally open) and to delete is to chop the wires, strip a little insulation and solder the wires together.

Well Duh, see what happens when work distracts you.

Of course I forgot that plugging in the battery is the same as switching it on.

Here's some pictures of a switch removal: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...tekin+chopping