RCCrawler Forums

meanbgreen · 10-16-2011, 04:35 AM

So I have a stock axial motor in my scx10 and tok it out for only like 15mins and the motor got really hot. Didn't affect operation but is it normal for it to get realy hot? I can't say I payed attention to it before now as my hand just happened to touch it and was like golly that is frickin hot. Maybe get a heat sink plate?

Charlie-III · 10-16-2011, 04:37 AM

If the motor is lubed, gear mesh is correct & no binding in the drivetrain, you may want to drop the pinion by a tooth or 2.
You lose a little speed but unload the motor which reduces heat.

meanbgreen · 10-16-2011, 09:10 PM

cool thanks for the help

Charlie-III · 10-17-2011, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meanbgreen

cool thanks for the help

Check things out, then get back to us with the outcome. It will help the next person down the road if they find this thread (because everyone "always" searches before posting....

).

meanbgreen · 10-18-2011, 05:34 AM

well I think my drive line is bindin awee bit. By the looks of it the little set screw on the rear driveline is loose on the output shaft. Went to tighten it but couldn't get the allen thinkin there looked like dirt I took a pick and got the dirt out but looks as though t was stripped and I haven't even touched that screw yet. Lame. So now I may drill it out and find me another set screw. Prob going to upgrade my drivelines as wel as I can see the ins are startin to waller out the joint. I tell ya for a stock RTR setup sure seems to take alot of upgrade parts. NOTE: next time just buy a kit since everything on a RTR needs to be replaced anyhow

z71baja · 10-19-2011, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

If the motor is lubed, gear mesh is correct & no binding in the drivetrain, you may want to drop the pinion by a tooth or 2.
You lose a little speed but unload the motor which reduces heat.

I was wondering about my motor running like this too, but since i bought my honch new, i thought what the hek...that's how it came out of the box!!!!

. but this is where i would like to ask for your help.....it appears that my motor took a dump, stock 27T.....what would you reccommend for a replacement? i like how the stock on handled but i have no idea what all these 27T to 55T motors really do. i'm not a scale comp guy...just go out and look for tough places to crawl. i like to see my tires spin and throw up dirt do this may give someone an idea as to what turn motor i should swith to. thanks for the feedback

Charlie-III · 10-19-2011, 07:56 AM

For brushed motors, the lower the "T" number the faster the motor spins but also the less torque it makes.
So, a 27T brushed motor spins a lot faster than a 55T brushed motor but has less torque.
The gearing in the transmission or axle will have an effect on what wind you want. I run 2 35T brushed in my 2.2 Bully MOA, but my gear reduction is likely different than yours.
Keep in mind, some of the stock 27T motors come with some timing advance in forward (and they are locked there although you "may" be able to adjust it), thus they are slower in reverse. Most comp rigs run close to "0" timing so we have roughly equal power in either direction.
I would look to see what others are running in a Honcho and see what they like/dislike about various motor wind's.

z71baja · 10-19-2011, 08:46 PM

thank you Charlie...very useful info. I have decided to go with axials 55T, unless another brand is recomended - thanks again

Charlie-III · 10-20-2011, 07:04 PM

No problem. Once you find something, post back in case another Honcho owner has a similar question.

hoghead5150 · 10-20-2011, 08:07 PM

i'm no expert but i wouldn't go to a 55 turn motor if you want any kind of wheelspeed. i have a wraith and burned up the stock 20 turn motor. switched to a 35 turn and noticed a huge drop in speed. i think that if you go to a 55 turn you will be SLOW!

i would look around locally and see what other people are running. my personal suggestion would be a 35turn (or maybe 45 turn) and drop a tooth or two on the pinion gear.

and for general knowledge, you get what you pay for in these motors. the axial motors are not very well built. they are cheap for the rtr trucks. i'm running an integy 35t lathe motor. it's also a cheapy, but better built than the axials. for a good motor look at the tekins or integy v motors. if you want something NICE look into holmes hobbies, and brood motors. they are fantastic.

meanbgreen · 10-28-2011, 04:19 PM

Decided to go with a Tekin 45T and Esc (part # TT2105)
They have awesome support for the military

crawlhog · 10-28-2011, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z71baja

thank you Charlie...very useful info. I have decided to go with axials 55T, unless another brand is recomended - thanks again

a 55 will be slower than molases, a 35t gives good wheel speed and torque. just something to think about

meanbgreen · 11-07-2011, 06:32 AM

yea turned out to be the 35T Tekin esc combo. I think it was bindin with the stock axles. I have MIP's on there now but haven't had a chance to run it yet. Plus I think I want to lower it a wee bit to prevent another chance of this.

10-16-2011, 04:35 AM	#1
meanbgreen Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Incirlik AB, Turkey Posts: 605	stock motor heat So I have a stock axial motor in my scx10 and tok it out for only like 15mins and the motor got really hot. Didn't affect operation but is it normal for it to get realy hot? I can't say I payed attention to it before now as my hand just happened to touch it and was like golly that is frickin hot. Maybe get a heat sink plate?

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10-16-2011, 04:37 AM	#2
Charlie-III I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA Posts: 8,314	If the motor is lubed, gear mesh is correct & no binding in the drivetrain, you may want to drop the pinion by a tooth or 2. You lose a little speed but unload the motor which reduces heat.

10-16-2011, 09:10 PM	#3
meanbgreen Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Incirlik AB, Turkey Posts: 605	cool thanks for the help

10-18-2011, 05:34 AM	#5
meanbgreen Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Incirlik AB, Turkey Posts: 605	well I think my drive line is bindin awee bit. By the looks of it the little set screw on the rear driveline is loose on the output shaft. Went to tighten it but couldn't get the allen thinkin there looked like dirt I took a pick and got the dirt out but looks as though t was stripped and I haven't even touched that screw yet. Lame. So now I may drill it out and find me another set screw. Prob going to upgrade my drivelines as wel as I can see the ins are startin to waller out the joint. I tell ya for a stock RTR setup sure seems to take alot of upgrade parts. NOTE: next time just buy a kit since everything on a RTR needs to be replaced anyhow

10-19-2011, 07:56 AM	#7
Charlie-III I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA Posts: 8,314	For brushed motors, the lower the "T" number the faster the motor spins but also the less torque it makes. So, a 27T brushed motor spins a lot faster than a 55T brushed motor but has less torque. The gearing in the transmission or axle will have an effect on what wind you want. I run 2 35T brushed in my 2.2 Bully MOA, but my gear reduction is likely different than yours. Keep in mind, some of the stock 27T motors come with some timing advance in forward (and they are locked there although you "may" be able to adjust it), thus they are slower in reverse. Most comp rigs run close to "0" timing so we have roughly equal power in either direction. I would look to see what others are running in a Honcho and see what they like/dislike about various motor wind's.

10-19-2011, 08:46 PM	#8
z71baja Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: SD Posts: 535	thank you Charlie...very useful info. I have decided to go with axials 55T, unless another brand is recomended - thanks again

10-20-2011, 07:04 PM	#9
Charlie-III I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA Posts: 8,314	No problem. Once you find something, post back in case another Honcho owner has a similar question.

10-20-2011, 08:07 PM	#10
hoghead5150 Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: poteau Posts: 996	i'm no expert but i wouldn't go to a 55 turn motor if you want any kind of wheelspeed. i have a wraith and burned up the stock 20 turn motor. switched to a 35 turn and noticed a huge drop in speed. i think that if you go to a 55 turn you will be SLOW! i would look around locally and see what other people are running. my personal suggestion would be a 35turn (or maybe 45 turn) and drop a tooth or two on the pinion gear. and for general knowledge, you get what you pay for in these motors. the axial motors are not very well built. they are cheap for the rtr trucks. i'm running an integy 35t lathe motor. it's also a cheapy, but better built than the axials. for a good motor look at the tekins or integy v motors. if you want something NICE look into holmes hobbies, and brood motors. they are fantastic.

10-28-2011, 04:19 PM	#11
meanbgreen Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Incirlik AB, Turkey Posts: 605	Decided to go with a Tekin 45T and Esc (part # TT2105) They have awesome support for the military

11-07-2011, 06:32 AM	#13
meanbgreen Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Incirlik AB, Turkey Posts: 605	yea turned out to be the 35T Tekin esc combo. I think it was bindin with the stock axles. I have MIP's on there now but haven't had a chance to run it yet. Plus I think I want to lower it a wee bit to prevent another chance of this.

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