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11-06-2011, 10:01 AM
| #1 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Co,Cork..Ireland
Posts: 579
|  WOW ! This works...
Wanna get more out of your cheap brushed motor . . .  RC ADVENTURES - Water "Break-In" Brushed RC Electric Motor - No need to "Waterproof" - YouTube .... Last edited by West Cork Basher; 11-06-2011 at 10:41 AM. |
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11-06-2011, 10:19 AM
| #2 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Mid Mo.
Posts: 544
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This technique works ok for cheap bushing motors. I would not use it for handwounds though. Water is abrasive and it will shorten the life of the motor. It is better to break them in slow and it will last longer. |
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11-06-2011, 11:06 AM
| #3 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA
Posts: 8,314
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1-Yes, it "works".  2-Yes, if done wrong, it's about the fastest way to kill a motor.  3-I wouldn't worry about it.  It made more difference years ago with very hard brushes & light brush spring tension on high RPM/low wind count (small "T") motors. Most crawler motors today run softer brushes and higher brush spring tension (it helps with mechanical drag brake). |
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11-06-2011, 11:21 AM
| #4 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 2,213
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Thats a very common method and works great. Just blow out the motor with compressed air, then spray out the motor with motor cleaner. Then oil bearings when finished. I do the slow break-in method on mine but there's nothing wrong with the water method |
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11-06-2011, 12:07 PM
| #5 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
Posts: 2,303
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I wouldn't say this works great... This is a trick from back in the slot car days. It carried over into RC. It really only should be used to break in sealed can motors with hard brushes. The kings of this were the silvercan guys (mostly tamiya races).....and even they don't do it anymore. A rebuildable motor should never be broken in with this method.....most brushes do not like the water for break in. Serrated brushes REALLY dislike water break in, as the serrations already are designed to speed up break in. Many of todays motors come with brushes that are NOT very water break in friendly. Soft brushes are what come on many of the LATHE motors....soft and water don't mix well. What often happens, if you manage to not kill the brushes/comm, water ends up stuck in the motor in every nook and cranny, which then leads to rust and other problems. Ask yourself, what do you really GAIN with water break in? Do you save time? Well, I guess when you actually start the process it's faster per se, but the setup and cleanup afterwards sure take longer. Keep in mind, the more people that do this, the quicker your motor will wear out or be screwed up.....so I sell more motors. So by all means, keep trying the water method. I've repaired numerous motors from people on here that destroyed motors trying this method. Sometimes I hate youtube.....any idiot can make a video and often it ends up gospel. So, 5 minutes, 3 volts....check brushes, go a minute more if needed....check again. Repeat until seated.....install in truck. Keep this in mind, minus sealed can motors, 25 years in RC......after 30+ national titles in racing and multiple in crawling, I can count on one hand how many times I broke a motor in with water..... Later EddieO |
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11-06-2011, 12:24 PM
| #6 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA
Posts: 8,314
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YouTube or EddieO, YouTube or EddieO, YouTube or EddieO,.......I pick EddieO!! I used to do water break-ins 25+ years ago, I no longer do (I also do my own motor rebuilds ).
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11-06-2011, 01:16 PM
| #7 |
| owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC   Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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Want to rile up Eddie? Tell him you just did a water break in on a new motor from him!!! I agree, mostly a waste of time and a good way to ruin a motor quickly if you don't do it right. I only do water break in on a silver can. I just drive my rig through water  |
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11-06-2011, 01:29 PM
| #8 | |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
Posts: 2,303
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Oh it's happened....even though every motor leaves the shop broken in already. I actually had a local guy who does not compete or anything buy a set of my motors and a set of yours. He saw on youtube to break them in with water. Even though he followed the instructions.....45 seconds, all 4 motors were pretty bad. The comms had more curves than a copy of Maxium magazine....brushes were toast. The guy only lived a few miles from me and had spent pretty much his last money buying motors for the trucks, which were for him and his nephew, who's dad died a while back. I felt pretty bad, so I rebuilt all 4 motors at no charge.....Luckily I only had to replace one armature....but I told him killed a lot of life on them, but they should be fine for a while....he emailed me a while back and said they were still going strong. I also made him promise to never put a motor in a cup of water again. Later EddieO Quote:
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11-06-2011, 02:10 PM
| #9 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Spring Texas
Posts: 209
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So John, is there something to do when I ll going to receive my new motor ( I ordered a combo from you, 35 turns) or it's ready to run? To clean motor, compressed air, cleaning motor and oil, correct? Is it really bad to use a brushed motor in water or not? I know that it' s very bad for a brushless motor so it's why I ordered a brushed one.... Axial Wraith and Losi SCTE |
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11-06-2011, 04:27 PM
| #10 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Co,Cork..Ireland
Posts: 579
| Quote:
So this is not as good as it sounds... .. | |
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11-06-2011, 04:28 PM
| #11 |
| owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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If you got an expert or Pro motor from me they are ready to go, minus soldering it in. A sport motor would be good to break in, run it at 3v for 3 minutes or so until the brushes are contacting the comm at least 90%. Any motor can work well in water, but all motors need to be cleaned afterwards. Compressed air and oil in the bearings is about the best way to do it at home. |
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11-06-2011, 04:42 PM
| #12 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Co,Cork..Ireland
Posts: 579
| Quote:
 Ansmann Racing Drift Kenjo 21t Motor, there only £15. Which I use in my AX-10.. Sean... . | |
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11-06-2011, 04:43 PM
| #13 |
| owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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As long as you got the water all out and relubed the bearings you are ok. Since that is a rebuildable motor there is no need to use water break in methods.
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11-06-2011, 04:58 PM
| #14 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Co,Cork..Ireland
Posts: 579
| Quote:
Yep all the water is out.. used a turbo hair dry then left it in the hot press for a few hour's , just relubed it now , with silicone oil which is water repellent.. .. | |
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11-06-2011, 09:13 PM
| #15 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Lincoln
Posts: 740
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I'm really not convinced as to why you would have to "break in" a motor in the first place. Outside of seating the brushes on certain motors- I really don't see the upside... these are Crawlers and Scalers-- you don't need optimum horsepower from the first run, not like a high rpm racing motor, IMHO. Seems like you could get the same results with a couple of mellow runs to start. ( similar to breaking in a nitro motor.) That guy on youtube just drives me nuts. Just because 99% of the info on his channel is just plain wrong.   I just cant help but picture all these guys around the globe dunking electric motors like tea bags. Just say'in.... |
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11-06-2011, 09:50 PM
| #16 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Arlington, Washington
Posts: 2,303
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Properly broken brushes producing optimal power is a positive side effect to breaking in the brushes....don't think of it as the main goal really. Break in your brushes not only will you see optimal power, but the brushes and comm will last longer. Don't break in your brushes properly and you will see premature wear on them and the comm, which not only will effect power output, but you will see other bad effects like piss poor drag brake, hung brushes, etc. While breaking in while the truck is installed works, its still not optimal. You really don't want any load on the motor while you do it. Even at minimal throttle with the tires off the ground, that's still quite a bit of amp draw. However, its still a better choice than water break in! I don't see what the big deal is about breaking in the brushes.....hook em up while you paint a body to a couple of C cell batteries...call it a day after they break in.....I can tell ya, I can break in a motor faster than people can mount a set of tires and foams to beadlocks.... Later EddieO |
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11-06-2011, 10:07 PM
| #17 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Lincoln
Posts: 740
| Quote:
) I hope I have'nt shortend the life of 14t cobalt puller I just installed. and the c-cell idea is a good one, probably a good idea too start doing that. | |
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11-06-2011, 10:35 PM
| #18 |
| owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down!
Posts: 20,290
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Pullers are already seated, ready to run.
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11-06-2011, 10:37 PM
| #19 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Lincoln
Posts: 740
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11-07-2011, 04:20 AM
| #20 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Spring Texas
Posts: 209
| Quote:
Axial Wraith and Losi SCTE | |
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