Super Rooster

[PastryLikeDood]

Just got a super rooster today and got up to the part where your supposed to install capacitors onto the motors. Is this required cause im havin a pretty hard time trying to get them to stick. The solder just doesnt stick to the motor can or the pos and neg fins.

[Ace]

They only help with radio glitching, it won't hurt to run without'm.

I don't bother with caps on lathe motors or stock cans. 99% of the time no problems.

To solder the caps to the can ya need a healthy iron. 60 watt minimum. Also helps to file or dremel the chrome off the can and get down to the iron underneath.

[jturkey69]

im also installing my super rooster as we speak...anyways, if i wire it parallel how long of a run time do you think it willbe with 2 16x2 speed gem pros.....i wired in series, and noticed alomst no difference

[PastryLikeDood]

so i really dont need to solder on the capacitors? I mean with the stock 3 step i didnt have capacitors on it and it still ran fine. Whats the point in putting them on with my Super Rooster? I plan on upgrading to 55T lathe motors anyway. So is it required? If i dont could it potentially cause damage to my brand new $120(underlined 6 times) Super Rooster? CAUSE I AINT BUYIN ANOTHER ONE!

[Bow3022]

If it fries send it in to novak for a replacement or repair.

[PastryLikeDood]

i was reading the fine print.. they hardly support it if it malfunctions at all...

[SPEED_RACER]

besides keeping glitchs down the caps also keeps high spikes down that can damage the esc.run with out runs a chance to ruin the esc,as small as that may be it's still risky.
to solder a good 40w iron works real good.and i don't mean a $6 one from radio shack.brand name like weller

[Jeckler]

Sand the motor case to get a good grip. Heat the area you're going to solder to with a match. Worked for me.

[badger]

Originally Posted by PastryLikeDood

Just got a super rooster today and got up to the part where your supposed to install capacitors onto the motors. Is this required cause im havin a pretty hard time trying to get them to stick. The solder just doesnt stick to the motor can or the pos and neg fins.

Sounds like you need to learn how to solder. Or get a better soldering iron. It's really not that hard.

[BENDER]

Should motor be removed from chassis all together when soldering caps on? I'm installing SR today and for what I paid I don't want to take any chances. I agree w/ Ace I've personally never run caps on any motor I've owned. I've always been recreational r/c guy, never got into racing. Therefore all my chit so far has been plug and play.

But, Badger is right it's time for me to learn. I do have soldering iron somewhere, it's a POS 40 watter I think.

I swear there was a thread on caps somewhere. Sorry if I missed it.

[4RnrRick]

Originally Posted by Ace

They only help with radio glitching, it won't hurt to run without'm. I don't bother with caps on lathe motors or stock cans. 99% of the time no problems.

I had to put them on mine becasue of glithing.... but then I found out that I was suppose to break the motor in before you use it. so by not breaking the motor in I was creating a lot of extra sparks in the motor which could have been the problem. I'm actually thinking about removing mine.....

Originally Posted by Ace

To solder the caps to the can ya need a healthy iron. 60 watt minimum. Also helps to file or dremel the chrome off the can and get down to the iron underneath.

I call BS here. All I did was use some Radio Shack all purpose solder and a very old no name 35 Watt iron with a half burned tip and mine stuck just fine. now granted this was on a new motor but that shouldb't make any difference. I think the trick is to use the right solder personally....... althought I do know a good iron helps. Also I didn't do anythign to the surfaces, I just heated it up and melted solder to the tab, then to the wire and then stuck both together and melted them together......

[BENDER]

Just got back from LHS they told me not to worry about caps on stock 540. So I'm going to give it a try, w/out caps, we'll see if I get any glitching.

[badger]

Originally Posted by 4RnrRick

I call BS here. All I did was use some Radio Shack all purpose solder and a very old no name 35 Watt iron with a half burned tip and mine stuck just fine. now granted this was on a new motor but that shouldb't make any difference. I think the trick is to use the right solder personally....... althought I do know a good iron helps. Also I didn't do anythign to the surfaces, I just heated it up and melted solder to the tab, then to the wire and then stuck both together and melted them together......

I agree. I can solder extremely well with my cheap ($9.99) 45W. craftsmen soldering iron from Sears. I do spend the extra $$ when I get the Deans Solder.

[Ace]

Originally Posted by 4RnrRick

I call BS here. All I did was use some Radio Shack all purpose solder and a very old no name 35 Watt iron with a half burned tip and mine stuck just fine. now granted this was on a new motor but that shouldb't make any difference. I think the trick is to use the right solder personally....... althought I do know a good iron helps. Also I didn't do anythign to the surfaces, I just heated it up and melted solder to the tab, then to the wire and then stuck both together and melted them together......

I call double BS!

If your saying you soldered to tabs then your not getting the point...

Some motors require soldering the caps to the case. It can be done with a lightweight iron but usually the solder joint is cold and suspect.

When I solder caps to the can I grab my 100watt soldering iron. Makes the job easy. Could I do it with a 35watt? Probably but it would look like SR5dave welded it on ( cause Dave gets pissey when ya use )

[badger]

Originally Posted by Ace

I call double BS!

If your saying you soldered to tabs then your not getting the point...

Some motors require soldering the caps to the case. It can be done with a lightweight iron but usually the solder joint is cold and suspect.

When I solder caps to the can I grab my 100watt soldering iron. Makes the job easy. Could I do it with a 35watt? Probably but it would look like SR5dave welded it on ( cause Dave gets pissey when ya use )

I see your point. Using the 100watt iron makes that job easy.

But I can make an extremely clean solder joint that is not cold with my 45watt iron.

My point is, if you practice and learn good technique you will not need a couple different Irons to do the job of one.

[BultacoJim]

I’m sorry but I have just got to take Ace’s side. I too thought I could solder until I had to be NASA certified when I worked for Kitt Peak Observatory as an undergraduate EE student at the University of Arizona. Try passing one of their certification courses.

35 W to 45 W is OK for copper wire & PC boards, but we are talking about soldering to the motor case right?

Standard 60/40 wire melts between 361-376°F. If you have a temperature-controlled soldering iron, the wattage doesn’t mean the tip is any hotter (melted is melted). Wattage is the Power or ability to maintain that temperature in the presence of a heat sink (like a motor case).

When you solder, you want to “quickly” apply the heat, the solder and then remove the heat quickly. This is called the “dwell” time. Holding a little 35 Watt iron on the motor case until solder can flow (dwell time) is not something I would want done on my new motor.

Don’t think Ace is correct? Take a 100 watt iron and have your buddy hold the motor in his hand while you use the 100 watt iron to solder one leg of a capacitor. Should take about 5 seconds max if the side of the motor case is sanded and fluxed correctly.

Now, use your 35 watt iron and watch your buddy drop that hot motor in about 30 seconds before you can get it soldered.

Sure, you can lay that motor on the table and get it soldered, but what damage did you do to the capacitor, the motor winding insulation, or the plastic bell housing while heating it up to melt the solder? And like Ace said, you’re probably still going to get a “cold” solder joint. Your money and time, so use whatever wattage iron you wish.

[MOTORRAD]

I use the lead iron I inherited (ment for doing the lead work on stained glass windows) makes very fast work of soldering to the motor can..

[Highmark]

This guy has always worked for me:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPR36&P=7

I use Dean's racing solder, I've never had a joint on a motor can or anything else "not stick", and even if I did I would think adding some flux would fix the problem