himark cobalt motor issues

[bikerpyro]

I got a himark 13t cobalt from a fellow crawler and put in my class 3 rig. I am running a tekin fxr on 3s and 18-87 gearing. The issue that I am having is the motor is running on the hot side, and very slow in reverse. I am not sure if I have the timing off, or to high of gearing? or some other issue.

[WIDELOAD]

Slower in reverse generally indicated that its got advanced timing. Being very slow in reverse makes me think that its got alot of advanced timing, that coupled with too high gearing and/or binding will lead to running hot.

To check the timing of a puller have a look at the first post in this thread: Caring for your new Brushed motor

If that doesn't solve it, try dropping a couple of teeth off the pinion as well a make sure there is no binding in the drive-train of you rig.

Let us know how you go.

[mtdriver]

Dont have any experience with Tekin ESCs, but some ESCs have a 50% reverse profile. If you have not used this ESC before it could be programmed wrong. Just a thought.

[bikerpyro]

So i moved the timing to what I think is zero, the endbell had a red dot on it, I set that at zero. I found out why my reverse was so slow, one of the nobs on the radio had gotten turned. The motor is still getting hot a slow speeds. up to 200f. I also went from a 18t to 14t pinion, do you guys think if I went up a couple teeth on the spur that may help with the low end heat issue? I was thinking some where around 90 tooth spur

[mtdriver]

200 is pretty warm. The red dot is to signify the positive terminal. You need to read the motor thread Wideload posted. It will help you figure out how to properly set the timing.

[bikerpyro]

I read that link before he posted it and have been looking at again again, seems my can is a little different than the holmes motor. I have the motor out right now, Ill take some pics and look at it a little more, I maybe just missing some thing simple.

[WIDELOAD]

200°f is a bit past warm. Bumping up in spur size along with a smaller pinion should also slow things down/cool them off.

There are a few different brands of cobalt pullers out there...So i pic of the end bell would help. But if its the without the round black plastic brush holders, 0° timing should be when the brushes line up with the middle of the magnet pack, which is also usually the middle of the 'big window' in the end bell...

The other thing could be it just doesn't like 3s.

[bikerpyro]

so I got some pics here.

this must be the divider.

[WIDELOAD]

That should be the 0° mark.
So try lining the brushes up with the center of the lighter coloured strip in the pic and you should be golden.

If its still running hot after that, drop the gear ratio/and or voltage lower.

[bikerpyro]

sounds good. Do you think go to a 90 tooth spur from a 87 will be enough of a change? Or should I go higher with the spur?

[WIDELOAD]

With 48p gears every 3 teeth change on the spur is equal to 1 tooth on the pinion. So going up to a 90t from a 87t spur is the same as dropping 1 tooth off the pinon (eg. 14t down to 13t).

[bikerpyro]

ok thanks, maybe ill get a 90,93 and maybe a 96. I ran out of adjustment, to move the motor closer to the spur.

[WIDELOAD]

Just watch going too big on the spur or you will run into issues with the spur hitting the drive shafts.