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Old 02-16-2012, 05:14 PM   #1
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Default Ae-2 and 3s

So I've searched and looked but there is no one thread pertaining to just the esc and running 3s, there's the wiring a bec and if it's a must have upgrade, my question is, what is the percentage of risking it catching fired or frying it on 3s? And also I read you can either just plug and play and it'll detect the 3s or use a castle link to set it to 3s? Which is safer to go. Just wanting to make one thread so people can go to and get solid fact about it using 3s.
1. What are all the modifications needed to make it safe using 3s?
2. What is the ratio of esc out there that are just fine and which fried?
3. If you do 3s what is the lowest turn motor you can go before frying it?
4. Does C rating on the 3s affect the outcome of frying it? Lower C rating safer?
Hopefully people can also add questions and answers and maybe make this a sticky for all to see.
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Old 02-16-2012, 05:34 PM   #2
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To run 3s you need to run an external Bec like a cc/bec. Motor limit idk. Guys run 35t on them. Higher C rating would be better, or so I would think. More efficient energy transfer.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:01 PM   #3
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

I run a 27t motor on mine on 3s, no issues I am using an external BEC though (just a cheap $3 hobbyking unit)
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:28 PM   #4
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

They list the motor limit at 19t but I cant say that would work well on 3s. Down to 27T you should be good to go.

All the information is here:
Axial AE-2 Forward Reverse ESC w Drag Brake
And
Axial AE-2 ESC Set-up and Programming
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:07 PM   #5
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

i'm running mine with a cc bec on a 800mah 3s 40c batteries. doing good so far!! it's pushing a HH 55t pro handwound motor. before in my wraith i ran 3s 4400mah batteries on an integy 35t and it never even got the esc warm. the stock settings is for auto lipo cutoff, so when you plug in the 3s battery just listen and make sure it beeps 3 times. if you run 2s it'll only beep 2 times. never had a problem with the auto lipo cutoff.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:20 PM   #6
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I know and I've read both of those, problem is, they say it can do 3s but no specs with it, and I've read alot of post talking about other people frying their esc on 3s so something isn't right with the setup, like teken, their esc shows the motor limit on 3s is 35 but on 2s I believe you can go to a 27 or 21 and it says it on the web page, I'm wanting to learn the hard facts so people can get it right and not fry them, hopefully bender or someone who knows the esc really well can put some input in it
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:21 PM   #7
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

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Originally Posted by demonoid369 View Post
4. Does C rating on the 3s affect the outcome of frying it? Lower C rating safer?
No, a high "C" rating of a pack will not hurt the ESC.
The motor & ESC will only draw what they need, you can't "shove" amps into them.
A low "C" rating (along with a low mah) will likely lower the ESC/motor performance. But, it still won't fry either of them.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:29 PM   #8
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

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Originally Posted by demonoid369 View Post
I know and I've read both of those, problem is, they say it can do 3s but no specs with it, and I've read alot of post talking about other people frying their esc on 3s so something isn't right with the setup, like teken, their esc shows the motor limit on 3s is 35 but on 2s I believe you can go to a 27 or 21 and it says it on the web page, I'm wanting to learn the hard facts so people can get it right and not fry them, hopefully bender or someone who knows the esc really well can put some input in it
it's a 2s speed control, people choose to run it on 3s accepting the fact it might not last, so far so good (for MANY people) lots of people are having good luck with this ESC on 3s, it's really up to you if you want to try it or not, you must use an external BEC for it to work on 3s, but in the end it does have a 2s lipo limit.

there are countless threads on the same matter, going over the exact same shit, search noob.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:34 PM   #9
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I have searched, and read alot, as stated in my first post, problem is, none go into depth as to the safest way of using 3s, they just say bec.... Yes you can add a bec but so far some are still frying, meaning something else is causing it, even on the axial site shows it saying that the ae-2 can do 3s but needs a bec. But nothing more like motor limit, or control setting that could affect it.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
No, a high "C" rating of a pack will not hurt the ESC.
The motor & ESC will only draw what they need, you can't "shove" amps into them.
A low "C" rating (along with a low mah) will likely lower the ESC/motor performance. But, it still won't fry either of them.
Cool,
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:00 PM   #11
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

Quote:
Originally Posted by demonoid369 View Post
So I've searched and looked but there is no one thread pertaining to just the esc and running 3s, there's the wiring a bec and if it's a must have upgrade, my question is, what is the percentage of risking it catching fired or frying it on 3s? And also I read you can either just plug and play and it'll detect the 3s or use a castle link to set it to 3s? Which is safer to go. Just wanting to make one thread so people can go to and get solid fact about it using 3s.
1. What are all the modifications needed to make it safe using 3s? external BEC
2. What is the ratio of esc out there that are just fine and which fried? 1 in 75 fry on 3s (just a guess)
3. If you do 3s what is the lowest turn motor you can go before frying it? I would say 27t is a safe "lowest" but I would be willing to try a 19-20t personaly
4. Does C rating on the 3s affect the outcome of frying it? Lower C rating safer? No, and no.
Hopefully people can also add questions and answers and maybe make this a sticky for all to see.
happy? this is my best guess, question number 2 is just stupid.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:48 PM   #12
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It's not stupid, it's all about numbers, say you just got a ae-2 and don't know much about it other than its POSSIBLE to do 3s, would you be more incline to try it if you found out it was a 50/50 chance or if it was truly a 1:75 chance?
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:44 PM   #13
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

You do know that AE-2 is re badged sidewinder correct ? Add a bec and run the highest C rating lipo you can.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:27 PM   #14
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

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You do know that AE-2 is re badged sidewinder correct ?
This is incorrect information. The AE-2 and sidewinder may share a similar outer casing but internally the two are very different.
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:45 AM   #15
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

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but internally the two are very different.
Proof of this ?

I don't see how the 2 can be internally different when they both use same firmware.

Last edited by eric113; 02-17-2012 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:59 AM   #16
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

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Proof of this ?

I don't see how the 2 can be internally different when they both use same firmware.
here you go AE-2 VS Sidewinder Not the same here's some Pics

also if they used the same firmware wouldnt all the tuning options the sidewinder has on castle link be available on the AE-2? I would think so, but no we only have 3-4 values we can change on the AE-2, while theres more tuning options then we need on the sidewinder.

Last edited by fred0000; 02-17-2012 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:04 AM   #17
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

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Originally Posted by demonoid369 View Post
It's not stupid, it's all about numbers, say you just got a ae-2 and don't know much about it other than its POSSIBLE to do 3s, would you be more incline to try it if you found out it was a 50/50 chance or if it was truly a 1:75 chance?
doesn't matter what the failure rate is it's a stock ESC you probably had planned to replace it anyway, people were doing it and it was working, isn't that proof enough? it was for me, i'm glad I did it. 3-4 months on mine with 3s, so far so good

there is enough information out there already that it should be easy enough to decide if you want to run it on 3s or not, you seem like the kind of guy that should stick with the 2s limit.

also, if and when mine fries, I will be replacing it with another AE-2 since they can be had for so cheap.

Last edited by fred0000; 02-17-2012 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:15 AM   #18
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

x2 if you are so worried about it just get a esc that is actually rated for 3s like an og sidewinder, sw v2, or sw sct all will cost about the same as a ae2
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:19 AM   #19
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Default Re: Ae-2 and 3s

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Originally Posted by fred0000 View Post
I run a 27t motor on mine on 3s, no issues I am using an external BEC though (just a cheap $3 hobbyking unit)
which brand 27T motor are you using on 3S?...how long does the 27T last?...
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Old 02-17-2012, 08:23 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by PipeDreams View Post
To run 3s you need to run an external Bec like a cc/bec. Motor limit idk. Guys run 35t on them. Higher C rating would be better, or so I would think. More efficient energy transfer.
This is partially untrue on a couple of fronts.

The AE-2's built-in BEC outputs 5 volts while being rated at something like 2-3 amps. If you're running any sort of steering load (anything other than flat ground, you should have a BEC installed anyway, right?

I've tested the AE-2 myself up to a 4s Lipo and it will handle down to the Wraith factory (yeah, yeah) 20 turn motor with ease. That motor won't hold up for long on 4s though. Even on 4s, the ESC's BEC still outputs 5 volts. I cannot say what kind of amperage it puts out, but my Futaba receiver never glitched once while powered by the ESC and feeding the lights as well.

The motor wind doesn't matter that much to the ESC's limit. It's a matter of how much current it can flow to feed the motor. Frying simply is overheating the individual circuits to the point the traces/transistors cannot handle it any longer. If you have the motor overgeared or are overloading the motor, you WILL draw far more current than that motor will normally consume.

The higher C ratings the batteries have, the faster they can give up their electricity to the circuit connected to them. Lower C rated packs can be used on the vast majority of crawlers as we do not draw nearly as much amperage as your average off-road competition vehicle or 1/8th scale.

If you run too low of a C rated pack for your given setup, you will notice the battery warming up as it's used. If you overdraw (Too large of a draw), that can cause a pack to puff or fail catastrophically dependent on how bad. Honestly, I cannot think of a single application where you can have too high of a C rating.


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