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Old 02-25-2012, 11:38 AM   #1
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Question Turnigy high current wires

I ordered 2 turnigy 4000mah, 3s, 40c lipos with the plan to use them in my FOFF rig. I also planned on using traxxas plugs because that's just what everything else I have runs. The problem is that the wires are too large to be able to work with the traxxas plugs.

Anyone else run into this already or know of a solution?
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:41 AM   #2
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

cut the top of the "hump" on the TRX plug off to allow the wire to come in (the part above where the wire would be), insulate with silicon/hot glue, shrink wrap over the whole deal if you have some big enough
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:16 PM   #3
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

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Originally Posted by brianw View Post
I ordered 2 turnigy 4000mah, 3s, 40c lipos with the plan to use them in my FOFF rig. I also planned on using traxxas plugs because that's just what everything else I have runs. The problem is that the wires are too large to be able to work with the traxxas plugs.

Anyone else run into this already or know of a solution?
use 4mm or 5.5mm bulet connectors.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:38 PM   #4
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

The Turnigy's likely come with 4mm or 5.5mm bullets, so why not make those your dedicated FOFF LiPo's and get the correct mating connector?
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:39 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Solitaire View Post
The Turnigy's likely come with 4mm or 5.5mm bullets, so why not make those your dedicated FOFF LiPo's and get the correct mating connector?
come on guys, he asked if anyone knew any remidies for his issue, he even said he'd like to keep the TRX plugs since everything else he has uses them, makes perfect sence.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:07 PM   #6
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

Yes Fred, he did and you gave him your opinion and I gave him something else to think about. Any foul there?

Personally, I'm hesitant to cram a 160A capable LiPo into a 30A connector. Seems like a waste of available power, but this is a free country and the OP can decide which way he/she wants to go.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:56 PM   #7
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

i'm just saying i'm sure he's well aware that he can change the connector thats just common sence, he was asking if there were any known tricks to getting the TRX plugs to work. they are not 30a plugs, but more so 100a plugs. they are high current plugs and though I dont like them myself i'd argue that they are just as good as a deans plug.
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:59 PM   #8
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

ok - so if I decide to go another route, are they 4 or 5.5mm connectors? and where can I find them? the lhs did not have anything.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:10 PM   #9
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

You will have to measure them and then you should be able to order them from any online hobby shop. I like the castle bullets personally.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:17 PM   #10
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

or will dean's work? I don't want to but I could switch everything to deans...
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:34 PM   #11
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Castle connectors are good.
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:36 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by brianw View Post
or will dean's work? I don't want to but I could switch everything to deans...

I use hobbyking deans plugs on everything (compatible with deans), even my 1/8 scale race trucks running 120a ESC in one, and a 150a ESC in another, 4500mah 40c, and 5000mah 30c 4s lipos, the plugs don't even get warm, another race buddy uses the same plugs on all his RC's aswell.

hope thats enough info to help. (real deans will probably be better, but the cost of converting a fleet to genuine deans may be discouraging)

Last edited by fred0000; 02-25-2012 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:21 PM   #13
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

I only run Turnigy lipo's and HobbyKing knock off Traxxas connectors. Yes the wire is huge but if you have a good soldering iron that can get the heat into the wire there not bad to work with. I can swap a connector now is less than a minute cause I've ran them for years. What I do is strip the plastic off the stock connector which leaves you a bullet on each wire,heat the bullet where the wire exit's from it till the solder flows and the wire will come rite out. Now place the end of the wire just barely on the blade from the Traxxas connector and heat it up, add more solder if needed. A lot of the time the wire will have enough old solder still on it that it doesnt require anymore and just hold the wire against the blade out of the traxxas connector till the solder flows. As large as the wire is it's kinda hard to get enough heat into it to attach it to a deans without melting the plastic part of the deans connector. At least that's been my experience.

Last edited by transambill; 02-25-2012 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:29 PM   #14
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

I actually changed some over to traxxas connectors last night, had the same issue. So I just used a file and filed down the wire once I soldered it to the connectors until it fit in the traxxas connector.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:31 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rangercat23 View Post
I actually changed some over to traxxas connectors last night, had the same issue. So I just used a file and filed down the wire once I soldered it to the connectors until it fit in the traxxas connector.
thats a great idea, i've filed off solder from some poor soldering jobs in the past, it files very quickly and almost effortlessly.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:32 PM   #16
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Default Re: Turnigy high current wires

So Bill, yours are just barely attached to the ends of the blade on the traxxas connector? And I'm guessing that holds up well? Do you add heat shrink tubing or cut away part of the plastic connector like Fred suggested?

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(real deans will probably be better, but the cost of converting a fleet to genuine deans may be discouraging)
lol - to say the least!
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:46 PM   #17
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So Bill, yours are just barely attached to the ends of the blade on the traxxas connector? And I'm guessing that holds up well? Do you add heat shrink tubing or cut away part of the plastic connector like Fred suggested?



lol - to say the least!
I've never had a joint break.
I never cut any plastic from a new connector, I like traxxas connectors cause there big and I have big hands so there easy to work with. The blade from the traxxas style connector has an area thats roughly 3/16 to solder to, I only have a hair over 1/16 of the wire laying on the blade of the connector when I make my joint. I then use a "1/2 piece of shrink wrap over the connection for added insurence. 99% of the bare wire/solder connection is up inside the traxxas connector so there's no bare anything showing. I add the heat shrink as a little added protection in case moisture finds it's way into the connector.
When you remove the bullet part of the stock connector there should be roughly "1/8 of bare wire showing and thats all you need.
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