Glitchy Glitcherson (Bruiser/Mountaineer owners HELP)

[crawler]

still glitching?
matt

[badger]

Still glitchy.

I am looking for a static bag to try that.

I am really tired of working on it right now, I spent way too much time on it in the last couple of days. I got so frustrated with it that I slammed my fists down on it, good think it is steel. I am taking a break from it for it's own safety! 8O

[RandyatBBY]

Badger did you disable the BEC and install a reciever pack? Sounds like low voltage at a distance. With three chanels working you may need to use 5 cell reciever pack and no BEC.

[phillyb]

Originally Posted by badger

I got so frustrated with it that I slammed my fists down on it, good think it is steel.

well first you need to calm down, and not get pissed or panic or anything. this hobby is supposed to be fun, not evil and stuff.

im guessing you have some metal to metal rubbing, seeing as how everything is steel. from your description it sounds like it happens at speed? id say something is rubbing/vibrating/scraping/etc something else. i recommend covering any linkages with heat shrink to keep them from rubbing also check for loose screws or worn parts. wouldnt hurt to check all your wiring, a tiny hole in a servo wire can drive you nuts. if nothing fixes it, i think that dissasembly and cleaning is in order, then grease everything up.

sad to hear you are having problems i wish you luck.

[badger]

Originally Posted by phillyb

well first you need to calm down, and not get pissed or panic or anything. this hobby is supposed to be fun, not evil and stuff.

im guessing you have some metal to metal rubbing, seeing as how everything is steel. from your description it sounds like it happens at speed? id say something is rubbing/vibrating/scraping/etc something else. i recommend covering any linkages with heat shrink to keep them from rubbing also check for loose screws or worn parts. wouldnt hurt to check all your wiring, a tiny hole in a servo wire can drive you nuts. if nothing fixes it, i think that dissasembly and cleaning is in order, then grease everything up.

sad to hear you are having problems i wish you luck.

The thing that pissed me off the most is that I tried to do this thing correct from the start. I did tear the whole truck down and cleaned everything, I have checked my wiring and resoldered all the connections and made sure I had no exposed wires. I have spent a shit load of time rebuilding this truck up, wiring it all nice just to find the F'ing thing glitches like mad.

I will figure it out, I have great trouble shooting skills (working on computers for so long) and have not touched it in two days so I will go back at it tonight and tomorrow morning.

I know the electronics are all good because I tested them all in my TXT.

[fortressbeast]

another shot in the dark but has happened to me b4, if u have a xtra set of xtals try them i had this same issue with a vector once (low to the ground and a bumpy ride) and when i moved rx, servos, and pack to nitro quake (big tires/shocks so a nice smooth ride) it would work fine, it turned out the the vibration in the vector was causeing the issues (beleave it or not xtals can and will go bad from too many wrecks at high speed or cat knocking them off the table when changing rx's )

[SR5Dave]

Here is my favorite trick (since I suffer from sooooooooo much twitching..)

Get the rig w/ a full battery, including your radio batts. Go somewhere with ABSOLUTE total darkness, with the body off. Run the piss out of it and watch if it arcs anywhere. As we all know, the motors usually do, but only worry if that is in synch with the twitching. I've caught a few things this way.

I've also learned that running a reciever pack helps a lot. So does running good, new motors. My other downfall has been not fully charged batts in the radio.

[SR5Dave]

So?! Any luck?

[Lucus]

hey badger ive just been having a look at your pics and i notice that u have a cap soldered betwen +ve and -ve on your motor and one other cap half soldered onto the +ve termianl. correct me if im wrong but arent caps meant to be soldered from the +ve terminal to the can and from the -ve terminal to the can. this way brush arc in the motor is suppessed and prevents glitching? just a thought thats all as i had a similar problem with an ally chassis rc10 and it turned out i had broken a leg off the cap due to vibration.
Hope this helps!!

[badger]

fortressbeast - I know it's not the xtals, because my transmitter is synthesized and I have put the receiver in my TXT which worked fine. I have also installed my novak synthesized receiver in the Mounty and it still had problems.

SR5Dave - Yeah the motor is the only thing that arcs when it twitches. It is definitly the motor/tranny combo causing the problems. I have swapped them out for two other motor/tranny's and it still has the problem.

Lucus - You are correct, I over looked that and when I brought it down to the LHS he noticed it as well, so I corrected it hoping for the best and nothing.

I have a solution though.... I took the pile-o-metal they call a motor/tranny out and am going to install a Pede tranny and Lathe motor. No I really took it out because they just weigh too much and are soo large. Here's what I did with the extra space up front where the motor was.



The Pede tranny and battery pack are going in the middle of the chassis.

Thanks for all the help guys!

[Lucus]

one last question badger u know those crappy little green fibre discs that tamiya give u to mount between the motor and motor plate? are u meant to originally have one of those in there?

[badger]

Originally Posted by Lucus

one last question badger u know those crappy little green fibre discs that tamiya give u to mount between the motor and motor plate? are u meant to originally have one of those in there?

I think you only need one, from what I have seen in the manual. I tried using 2 but it did not work that well, they were too think combined.