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Old 06-10-2012, 10:08 PM   #1
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Default Castle sv2 melted

I got a never used castle sv2 with 5700 kv motor combo for my son's slash. I 've been running it on a 5000 mah 3s lipo which it is supposedly rated for. I put about 2 packs through it but it was WAAAy too fast. So I bought an inexpensive 3900 kv motor off of ebay that was supposed to handle 3s as well. . I ran 2 packs through it but it got CRAZY HOT. I said screw it let's run it till it fries, which was by the end of the second pack. Tried to run it a third time but it barely moved. So I went back to the 5700 combo motor. Used the truck for 2 or 3 minutes just to check it. Everything was fine. The next day all my step son did was plug it in and POOF up in smoke. It melted the battery wires off the esc and the case is visibly deformed. I know he plugged the battery in correctly because I use deans plugs.

So my question is this, was it something I did to cause this to happen or are the sv2's prone to spontaneous combustion. Thanks all!
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Old 06-10-2012, 10:40 PM   #2
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

The axial scx10 esc with drag brake is acualy the sv2 without the 3rd wire, and its rated for 2s lipos, and 6 cell nimh. And if u were running contimuously through the packs, with out a break, that could have done it.
Also, and I'm just makin sure, u absolutly HAVE to let the battery cool before u charge it then let it cool after charging to run. And its problably a good idea to let the esc cool after runs, just so u don't let it get too hot.
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:54 PM   #3
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

sounds like your pinion was way too high in the slash with the motor/esc you were running, that would be my guess as it is rated for 3s not 2s max like fordrox97 said.

or you had the gear mesh way too tight or there may have been a diff problem
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:57 PM   #4
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

or its just castle smoldering like they are known for doing, lol.
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:43 AM   #5
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDROX97 View Post
The axial scx10 esc with drag brake is acualy the sv2 without the 3rd wire, and its rated for 2s lipos, and 6 cell nimh. And if u were running contimuously through the packs, with out a break, that could have done it.
Also, and I'm just makin sure, u absolutly HAVE to let the battery cool before u charge it then let it cool after charging to run. And its problably a good idea to let the esc cool after runs, just so u don't let it get too hot.

The brushless sv2 and brushed Ae3 are not remotely the same internally. They share the same case that is all. Additionally if you read my post you'll see that my set-up IS rated to handle 3s. As far as running the batteries continuously, no I did not. I only have one battery for it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by greggreg2011 View Post
sounds like your pinion was way too high in the slash with the motor/esc you were running, that would be my guess as it is rated for 3s not 2s max like fordrox97 said.
or you had the gear mesh way too tight or there may have been a diff problem
The 5700 didn't get very hot the first couple of times I used it so when I went to the lower kv motor it should have been able to handle the same gearing theoretically. But all of this should still have only made the motor blow not the esc right?

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Originally Posted by greggreg2011 View Post
or its just castle smoldering like they are known for doing, lol.
Didn't know this ...
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Old 06-11-2012, 07:38 AM   #6
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

Quote:
Originally Posted by greggreg2011 View Post
sounds like your pinion was way too high in the slash with the motor/esc you were running, that would be my guess as it is rated for 3s not 2s max like fordrox97 said.

or you had the gear mesh way too tight or there may have been a diff problem

dude, i just took my truck apart, and looked at the circut board. i already knew the esc is castle, and i had yet to find out. but when I looked at the circut board, there was a hole in it for the third wire. so i looked up the ae-2 esc, and there poped up the Sv2
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:24 AM   #7
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDROX97 View Post
Also, and I'm just makin sure, u absolutly HAVE to let the battery cool before u charge it then let it cool after charging to run.
The OP is using lipo.. The cells don't care if they are hot or not when you charge, and charging actually COOLS them down. Just a FYI.
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Old 06-11-2012, 10:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FORDROX97 View Post
dude, i just took my truck apart, and looked at the circut board. i already knew the esc is castle, and i had yet to find out. but when I looked at the circut board, there was a hole in it for the third wire. so i looked up the ae-2 esc, and there poped up the Sv2
Do u have a sv2 to open up? Likely not because if you hold them side by side they are different as the sv2 has more circuitry in it to allow brushless motor use. That's like saying the Holmes hobbies brxl is the same as the sidewinder as they look the same, but they only share the heats ink and case just like the sidewinder/sv2 and axial ae2.
As to the issue with the sv2, the issue was likely either the cheap motor u bought wasn't up to the task of 3s even if rated to it and may have caused some internal damage to the sv2 and then it gave up with the 5700 motor, or it just gave up as I have heard a fair number of issues with the sv2 that's why I always search for used original sidewinders.


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Old 06-11-2012, 03:11 PM   #9
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

I have to admit that this is my first go at the brushless stuff. What I don't understand is, how a motor can cause an internal failure of the esc?
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:24 PM   #10
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

Quote:
I have to admit that this is my first go at the brushless stuff. What I don't understand is, how a motor can cause an internal failure of the esc?

Brushed or brushless... a motor that has shorted windings or is stalled can take out an ESC faster than you can say "magic smoke"
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:54 PM   #11
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I know it's odd but can happen. I bought a cheap 4000kv motor and rant on 3s on one of my sidewinder (v1) and it made the esc quit working for brushless. Whenever it had a all 3 wires hooked up and just turned on it would heat up. Funny thing is I set it to brushed mode and it worked fine and is still in use on my xr10 a year later, just the brushless part of the circuitry fried (lucked out there). So for all my 3s brushless use I will only use a castle mamba max pro and even it gets almost to the borderline of hot


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Old 06-11-2012, 04:20 PM   #12
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bukwylde View Post
So my question is this, was it something I did to cause this to happen or are the sv2's prone to spontaneous combustion.
I would say it's safe to say that all ESCs are prone to combustion. I've fried Novak, Castle, Tekin, Holmes' and Traxxas. It's an electronics device sometimes running very close to its limits, especially on 3S pushing a 5700 KV motor. That had to be a rocket! Amp draw was probably huge and a little FET might have said no more.

Hard to say if it was a result of use/abuse, or just something that happened.

I gave a buddy a brand spanking new Tekin FXR and as soon as he plugged in a battery, poof.

Holmes recently posted somewhere that he triple checks his ESCs before he ships them to the customer, but as soon as the customer hooks it up, poof.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:40 PM   #13
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Default Re: Castle sv2 melted

So it's probably my fault because I decided to "kill" the cheap motor. Stupid mistake I won't make again. But yeah the thing was a "rocket". You couldn't reach top speed because too much air would get underneath and just cause it to flip over. It really was uncontrollable though... impressive but uncontrollable.

Thanks all for the info!
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:48 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Bukwylde View Post
So it's probably my fault because I decided to "kill" the cheap motor.
It's possible. But anything is.

I was trying to make you feel better.
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