Is it "Normal/bad" clod stall or electronic(s) issue?

[OhioCrawler]

I dont wanna call it "Normal" clod stall because to me its started acting up or getting worse the past couple weeks...

Heres what was going on...
XR10

BEFORE:
Single fxr with punk dig and tekin 55t's.

After many many many batteries i started having issues with my front motor "stalling" out when there was a small load put on it. Meaning when i would give it throttle the rear would kick on and the front would need about 10-15% throttle to get it to kick on. Or if i went to climb something or even creep up a wall where there would be a higher load it would require about 20% or so throttle.


Anyways, i figured this would be a perfect time to ditch the punk and get another fxr and upgrade my motors.


NEW SETUP:
Dual fxr's and HH 35t torquemaster's(expert)

Seems like it has gotten worse with the new setup. I have to overdrive the front by 30% to the get it to act better.

Is 30% normal? Is it because im running wheel weights and not knuckle weights? Ive double checked my 4pl programming per Harley's tips/tricks etc. Only thing i havent done electronic wise is do a rebind to the rx or check firmware since i dont have the tekin hotwire. And the only thing different programming wise is the front drag brake is set to 9 and rear 11.



Any other ideas? Comments? Thanks!

[Tonysmini]

Could it be a tired motor? I had this on my Clod and swapping them round after giving them both a good clean seemed to fix it.

Either that or maybe something is binding somewhere. I would try swapping first the motors front to back, and then the ESC's to try and narrow the problem to either the electronics or the running gear.

[OhioCrawler]

Originally Posted by Tonysmini

Could it be a tired motor? I had this on my Clod and swapping them round after giving them both a good clean seemed to fix it.

Either that or maybe something is binding somewhere. I would try swapping first the motors front to back, and then the ESC's to try and narrow the problem to either the electronics or the running gear.

When i had the single fxr and punk dig i swapped the old tekin 55t's front to rear and the issue followed. So thats why i figured it was motor related. So i bought NEW HH 35t's with only the two batteries I ran through them last night.

[new2it]

30% is too much. I would recalibrate both ESCs (I've always done them separately, but I've heard people have good luck doing them both at the same time). I would also get your hands on a Tekin Hotwire and make sure they have the exact same settings and that they are running the same firmware. The Hotwire is pretty cheap or you can see if your LHS will do it for you.

[OhioCrawler]

After looking closely at the esc's while giving a very fine throttle input it seems the leds on my rear esc is getting the signal first and moving to the "low throttle" position while the front esc is still flashing leds like theres no input, then giving more throttle the front esc starts to acknowledge the input.

Front esc is ch2, rear is ch4. I tried swapping esc plugs at the rx to see if maybe the issue would change front to rear. The same esc's still act the same no matter if their on ch2 or ch4, the original rear esc still has the leds move/acknowledge throttle input first.

The only things i havent tried is removing the motors and checking the drivetrain for binding, or use the tekin hotwire to check firmware and such. Ill get one on order asap.

[indiana mudcat]

Sounds like a simple calibration is the cure. Not sure about Tekin but usually you turn the ESC on while holding full throttle, wait for chimes, them pull full reverse, wait for chimes and the hit neutral and wait for chimes again. Did you do this yet?

[OhioCrawler]

Originally Posted by indiana mudcat

Sounds like a simple calibration is the cure. Not sure about Tekin but usually you turn the ESC on while holding full throttle, wait for chimes, them pull full reverse, wait for chimes and the hit neutral and wait for chimes again. Did you do this yet?

Yes. A couple differents times. Even both esc's to double check

-power up esc's, hold mode for 3-5secs. Chimes. Record neutral. Chimes. Record full throttle and chimes. Record full reverse and double chimes then returns to normal operation.

[Tonysmini]

I wonder if they have different dead band settings? (The range where they see the stick position as neutral) sounds like one may be narrower than the other. I think you'll need the Hotwire to confirm this. (Never owned an FXR myself)

[OhioCrawler]

Originally Posted by Tonysmini

I wonder if they have different dead band settings? (The range where they see the stick position as neutral) sounds like one may be narrower than the other. I think you'll need the Hotwire to confirm this. (Never owned an FXR myself)

Heres what else i noticed………

When the rear esc acknowledges the input before the front esc and then more throttle is given to get the front esc to acknowledge the input to where now both escs have their first led lit up. Give alittle more throttle and the front esc moves to led#2...3...4...etc... before the rear esc moves to 2...3...4...wtf? How is that possible? ^^^hope that makes sense^^^

After recalibrating a few times and looking over the drivetrain it has gotten slightly better. I have been able to go from 30% to 20% front overdrive.

I did order a hotwire so ill give it all a look...

[mammoth]

Ok I think I have this figured for ya, the problems to me sound like:
1. your firmware in each esc is going to be different as you have metioned you have had the first esc for awhile then picked up another.
2. Your deadband setting is different in each esc. This is why it appears to be stalling then when you get going the front moves to led 2,3,4, before the rear.
3. Once firmware and deadband are set the same then recalibrate and you should be good to go.

Let us know what you found once you get your hotwire.

[OhioCrawler]

Originally Posted by mammoth

Ok I think I have this figured for ya, the problems to me sound like:
1. your firmware in each esc is going to be different as you have metioned you have had the first esc for awhile then picked up another.
2. Your deadband setting is different in each esc. This is why it appears to be stalling then when you get going the front moves to led 2,3,4, before the rear.
3. Once firmware and deadband are set the same then recalibrate and you should be good to go.

Let us know what you found once you get your hotwire.

Thanks! I will post back for sure. Should have the hotwire in a couple days.

[OhioCrawler]

I just got my Hotwire in the mail, and this is what i found...

Front ESC: Firmware 028
Rear ESC: Firmware 030

I updated firmware and also made sure all the other settings matched. Well, I did set the front esc's drag brake to 75% and rear to 100%. All other settings are the same via hotwire.


Plugged in the battery, and problem SOLVED. It must have been the firmware. Thanks everyone!!!

[mammoth]

Glad to hear its all worked out for ya!!!