FXR troubles... help!

[grob23]

First off, I'm running a single FXR, 3S Lipo, and a HS645. No BEC, no dig, no winch, nothing extra!

A bit about my FXR: I bought it used, and added motor/battery leads. I run it inside of the Axial SCX-10 radio box (unsealed, with no attempt at waterproofing). While soldering on leads, I managed to burn through the clear part of the FXR decal (above the LEDs). I also shorted the on/off switch inside the box, close to the circuit board.

My problem: Every time I plug in a battery and turn on my Tx, I get 3 flashing LEDs on the FXR. I've tried two different radios (both work, and both have new batteries). I recently made the switch to 3s Lipo, but I re-programmed the ESC via a Hotwire.

I found the instructions to the FXR online, and under "troubleshooting" it says that a neutral signal cannot be found, and recommends re-calibrating the ESC to the radio. I did the re-calibration, and still nothing. After messing with the Tx's throttle trim, and finding a sweet spot, the ESC finally finishes it's setup and I hear the chime from the motor indicating that the radio has been found. So basically, at this point, every time I want to run my rig, I must re-calibrate my FXR. I'm not fond of doing this, Plug and play is what I'm after

Let me know if you may have a suggestions, or if this has ever been heard of.

Thanks in advance for any replies/help I receive
-Greg

[grob23]

So since I posted this thread I've tried: Different batteries (I tried my old NIMH packs), I've swapped between the 2 radios I have available to me, I've re-wired my truck, and I've re-positioned the wires (thinking that it could be an antenna interference problem) I think I've exhausted all options that I can think of.

I've finally found a rig that I can enjoy and be proud of, and now this... maybe it's just time to drop some coin on a BRXL!

I was kinda hoping to have this bug worked out before out G2G Saturday afternoon, but I may just give up

[difflocker]

Not trying to tell you what to do or trying to be mean, but I would personally steer clear of buying used electronics unless you are sure of the source. I have learned this lesson myself years ago before getting into rock crawling. I bought used electronics from someone online, and it turned out the stuff was junk. If things do not get sorted out on your own, contact Tekin and ask them if they have non-warranty services available for their products.

[BC-Brian]

Get or borrow a Hotwire from a friend and make the Neutral Band (in the FXR) larger. It could be that the person you borrowed it from tightened this way up, for whatever reason.

You may be able to adjust the neutral band without the hotwire by using the button setup.

[grob23]

Originally Posted by difflocker

Not trying to tell you what to do or trying to be mean, but I would personally steer clear of buying used electronics unless you are sure of the source. I have learned this lesson myself years ago before getting into rock crawling. I bought used electronics from someone online, and it turned out the stuff was junk. If things do not get sorted out on your own, contact Tekin and ask them if they have non-warranty services available for their products.

I usually don't buy used electronics, but I got it in a trade... and for a smokin deal IMO

Originally Posted by BC-Brian

Get or borrow a Hotwire from a friend and make the Neutral Band (in the FXR) larger. It could be that the person you borrowed it from tightened this way up, for whatever reason.

You may be able to adjust the neutral band without the hotwire by using the button setup.

I have a Hot-Wire, I'll mess around with it, but do you have any more information about making the neutral band wider? That kinda sounds like my problem...

[grob23]

Originally Posted by BC-Brian

make the Neutral Band (in the FXR) larger.

I figured it out, and that corrected my problem! Thanks a ton yo!

[filotr14lsdude]

I have similar issues with me fxr. But they wont calibrate.

I brought them brand new. I'm now going away from fxrs and replace all the fxrs for something better.

Good to here you got yours sorted. Dealing with tekin for warranty was always a PITA

[AreCee]

Originally Posted by filotr14lsdude

I have similar issues with me fxr. But they wont calibrate.

I brought them brand new. I'm now going away from fxrs and replace all the fxrs for something better.

Good to here you got yours sorted. Dealing with tekin for warranty was always a PITA

Finding something better will be very difficult, finding something similar will be easy. Bottom line is that most of the problems are user error, making an error in the set up or from not reading the set up sheet correctly. I've had Castle products and have been dissatisfied with them too. Recently I bought a NIB CC SW2 and it wouldn't take any programming at all. Called CC and they admitted that they had a large number of defective ESCs that could only be programmed with a CC Link. I said I didn't have one and they sent one to me without the cable.

Tekin worked worked with me to resolve a Hotwire issue with 2 RS ESCs, it turned out that my computer was at fault and killed both. Tekin replaced both within a week (shipping time).

Their CS is excellent as is their warrantiy service. I only had to use it once in over ten years and for a user error that they fixed at no charge. I can't understand what your problem was.

[grob23]

I have nothing bad to say about any brand. I've been crawling for 7+ years and have ran everything from 30 dollar un-programmable esc's to high-end Castle and Tekin stuff... I've had a few problems along the way, but most were user error and/or resolved. My personal thought about ESC's is that people really need to do research before complaining about it... and that means myself too!

[AreCee]

Originally Posted by grob23

I have nothing bad to say about any brand. I've been crawling for 7+ years and have ran everything from 30 dollar un-programmable esc's to high-end Castle and Tekin stuff... I've had a few problems along the way, but most were user error and/or resolved. My personal thought about ESC's is that people really need to do research before complaining about it... and that means myself too!

I didn't get a chance to reply that you need to open up the neutral band so the ESC can read the radio signals. I usually keep it between 20 and 40 myself and that seems to work well with most radios.

[grob23]

Thanks for that info too! I bumped it from 1 up to 100 maybe I should tone it down a notch...

[AreCee]

Originally Posted by grob23

Thanks for that info too! I bumped it from 1 up to 100 maybe I should tone it down a notch...

OMG a 1. No wonder it kept losing contact with the radio. I believe default is 50 but I can't remember and I'm at work.

[BC-Brian]

Wow, it was set to 1.... I can't imagine that is even usable. Maybe now you know why the other guy sold it. He probably changed that number without knowing what it means and could never get it to work again.

[rockhugger]

Hey all you guys talking abut the neutral band, this is great information and now that I'm reading your experience on it's affects, I'm realizing it might also be the problem with my fxr also. The strange thing is I never changed anything in my fxr, it just one day would not arm completely... steering works, throttle flares up the led's but no motor response.

Is this the same problem you were having grob (op)? Thanks

[Ty@Tekin]

Originally Posted by rockhugger

Hey all you guys talking abut the neutral band, this is great information and now that I'm reading your experience on it's affects, I'm realizing it might also be the problem with my fxr also. The strange thing is I never changed anything in my fxr, it just one day would not arm completely... steering works, throttle flares up the led's but no motor response.

Is this the same problem you were having grob (op)? Thanks

Yep, if the Neutral Width is set too low (narrow) then you will have arming issues when you power the FXR up. Most radios' signal tends to wander a bit, they aren't perfectly true at the pulse width we are looking for. This feature was added to prevent runaways, if we don't see a solid neutral signal, you go nowhere until we do. I have found that about 12-15 is the lowest I can go before I start having the same issues too, on most of my ESCS, with a DX3R Pro.

Adjust the NW will change the feel of the trigger too, the larger the number, the more dead space there will be around neutral, meaning the trigger has to move further to start moving the rig. If you like the trigger to be really sensitive and throttle to be applied with the smallest movements, start bumping the NW down lower until you start seeing the arming problem, then go back up until it stops.

[rockhugger]

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

Yep, if the Neutral Width is set too low (narrow) then you will have arming issues when you power the FXR up. Most radios' signal tends to wander a bit, they aren't perfectly true at the pulse width we are looking for. This feature was added to prevent runaways, if we don't see a solid neutral signal, you go nowhere until we do. I have found that about 12-15 is the lowest I can go before I start having the same issues too, on most of my ESCS, with a DX3R Pro.

Adjust the NW will change the feel of the trigger too, the larger the number, the more dead space there will be around neutral, meaning the trigger has to move further to start moving the rig. If you like the trigger to be really sensitive and throttle to be applied with the smallest movements, start bumping the NW down lower until you start seeing the arming problem, then go back up until it stops.

Thanks Ty... I will definitely try this later after work before heading up to G-6 at the cantina event.. I hadn't seen anything posted about this in the other fxr threads on the same issue... but I'm going to say it makes the most sense since I really don't think there is anything wrong with my 3 y.o. fxr (original release v2 that's been flawless, but I'm running a gt3 radio so maybe that's part of the gremlin.

thanks again

[rockhugger]

Ty, do you recommend using v31 over v28, or should I just leave it alone?

Thanks

[Ty@Tekin]

Originally Posted by rockhugger

Ty, do you recommend using v31 over v28, or should I just leave it alone?

Thanks

031 is smoother, email the Prez for the download. We don't have it in the HotWire package on the site yet, still adding a few things before it goes up.

jcampbell@teamtekin.com

Also I forgot, you will probably end up needing a BEC running 3S. If your servo starts stalling out or shutting your receiver down, adding one will cure the problem.

[grob23]

Originally Posted by rockhugger

Hey all you guys talking abut the neutral band, this is great information and now that I'm reading your experience on it's affects, I'm realizing it might also be the problem with my fxr also. The strange thing is I never changed anything in my fxr, it just one day would not arm completely... steering works, throttle flares up the led's but no motor response.

Is this the same problem you were having grob (op)? Thanks

My problem was almost exactly the same. I'd start it up and get the initial chime, then only 3 LED's would light up, and blink. (Indicating that it couldn't find a neutral signal) The LED's would flash either the top 3 or bottom 3 depending on my throttle trigger position. I had perfect steering (and a winch with my 3ch.) but I got no throttle. Now, with the NB bumped up, I have no issues with getting it to completly arm and sync up with the radio. It works FLAWLESSLY!

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

031 is smoother, email the Prez for the download. We don't have it in the HotWire package on the site yet, still adding a few things before it goes up.

jcampbell@teamtekin.com

Also I forgot, you will probably end up needing a BEC running 3S. If your servo starts stalling out or shutting your receiver down, adding one will cure the problem.

That reminds me: I need to eventually grab the download for the new software. But I'm lazy so it might be a while...

I have noticed that I need a BEC. I've been crawling for long enough to know when they should be used. Plus, when someone with a status such as yours recommends it, it's a no brainer!

[rockhugger]

Originally Posted by Ty@Tekin

031 is smoother, email the Prez for the download. We don't have it in the HotWire package on the site yet, still adding a few things before it goes up.

jcampbell@teamtekin.com

Also I forgot, you will probably end up needing a BEC running 3S. If your servo starts stalling out or shutting your receiver down, adding one will cure the problem.

I actually already did all the emailing prez and got my 031, just have not done it yet... I used this esc for years without a hotwire, and just bought when it started acting up, turns out I didn't have to, but I'm now glad I did. I never gave any background on my rig when I jumped in this thread ... but I'm running 2s for past 3 yrs. and a ccbec... gt3b radio. I actually just picked up a spare fxr 2 days ago... lol can't be down that long, but that'll go in another rig now... I love these things !!!!!

thank again ty..

Originally Posted by grob23

My problem was almost exactly the same. I'd start it up and get the initial chime, then only 3 LED's would light up, and blink. (Indicating that it couldn't find a neutral signal) The LED's would flash either the top 3 or bottom 3 depending on my throttle trigger position. I had perfect steering (and a winch with my 3ch.) but I got no throttle. Now, with the NB bumped up, I have no issues with getting it to completly arm and sync up with the radio. It works FLAWLESSLY!



That reminds me: I need to eventually grab the download for the new software. But I'm lazy so it might be a while...

I have noticed that I need a BEC. I've been crawling for long enough to know when they should be used. Plus, when someone with a status such as yours recommends it, it's a no brainer!

yep, that's what mine and many others were going through, I might go back to those threads and put a link to this ultimately helpful thread!!! .
it's cheap insurance to run the bec either way.

off to the G-6 guys thanks