Tekin says no!

[mudbeast2]

After reading about BEC here in the forum I contacted Tekin for advice on which model BEC to buy. They informed me that unless I'm running a 3 cell Lipo I don't need one. My future will just have a 3 channel for a 2 speed trans & that's it. Please advise!

[Charlie-III]

Typical dig or trans servo is small (low torque), thus fine on most ESC internal BEC's.

So I agree with Tekin in this case.

You have to get to ~200inoz+ on a servo before you really need an external BEC.

[ickabob]

Originally Posted by mudbeast2

After reading about BEC here in the forum I contacted Tekin for advice on which model BEC to buy. They informed me that unless I'm running a 3 cell Lipo I don't need one. My future will just have a 3 channel for a 2 speed trans & that's it. Please advise!

Well what servo are you running and are you running 3cells?

[Ty@Tekin]

In some cases you may need one. My 2.2 Jeep has one because my servo is just power hungry and it takes the load off the FXR.

[mudbeast2]

At the moment I am using 7.2 volt nimah 4600 battery. I am running a Futaba S3305 High-Torque Standard Servo w/Metal Gears. But I am going to go to Lipo 2 cell after the holidays. I don't have the 2 speed trans yet but I will just use a standard servo for that.

[johnnyh66]

Get the bec, it won't be long before you'll want to upgrade that servo and move up to 3s for your 2 speed... or get it then.
Summit trans or RC4WD 2 speed?

[JeremyH]

But Ted says YES!
Yes you need an external bec

[RcBro]

Whether the esc can handle it or not shouldn't matter. What you must remember is the servos power and speed are usually always based of a 6.0v testing.

Most esc bec's don't put out near that amount of voltage. Therefore your servo is usually only operating at 50% of its possible potential.

With a properly setup external bec your servo gets the power it needs to operate at its fullest potential meanwhile easeing the load off your esc which in return reduces heat as well.

Wiring your servo straight to the bec then takes the power load out of your RX and straight to your servo.

All your electronics will benefit from one and any possible surge issues from an over loaded servo are minimized to near zero failures.
Worth every bit of $20.

[bigemike]

on no the bec thread, lol

Trust me just add the bec, its alot easier. Everyone is right about it taking a load off of the fxr

[stickys]

For what it cost to do it well worth it for external bec. Honestly probably the biggest bang/buck upgrade on the market.

[T3rry]

if you're running 2s and a HV servo you can just wire the servo to the battery and don't need a bec.

[The Violator]

Yeah you know more than the tens of thousands of people who say to run a bec. I say prove them all wrong. Just make sure to not post about how your car has all these strange issues when you turn. Because then i will call you a douchebag when you do.

[Chris_The_Battery_Man]

I would always run a BEC simply because it's better to be over powered than under powered. It wont hurt anything to run one. For the extra $25, and little bit of soldering, its totally worth it.

William(RC Bro) is right. Your internal BEC wont put out the proper power needed. Im sure that the internal one would "do" but so would a lot of things.

With any upgrade, you need to weight the benefits to the price. In this case, $25 is a small price to pay for the power. To some people, $25 is a lot, but this hobby is not a cheap one, so in the scheme of things, its minimal.


Conclusion:

Spend the $25, install it, set it to about .3v above the servo's highest advertised operating voltage, and call it a day.

[mudbeast2]

I will be ordering a Castle BEC tomorrow. Thanks for the advice. This is why I like forums, I use HD Forums for all my Harley questions & you guys are just as helpful. Thank you.

[Olle P]

I don't use an external BEC simply because my steering servo is fed straight from the battery.
As Chris put it, better to be overpowered!

Your servo doesn't seem very strong to start with, so a BEC feeding it 7.0V is a good start. (The 6.0V rating of your servo means it can be fed straight from a 6V battery supplying >7V when fully charged.)

[mudbeast2]

Castle BEC is on its way! Thanks guys.

[mrG]

Originally Posted by Chris_The_Battery_Man

set it to about .3v above the servo's highest advertised operating voltage, and call it a day.

Can you expand

[Chris_The_Battery_Man]

I do it simply because of voltage loss over the small wire, and distance. Under a load, DC voltage can drop the longer it travels, and the smaller wire it has to go through. Plus, I am known for pushing my stuff to the limit with voltage

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by Chris_The_Battery_Man

... I am known for pushing my stuff to the limit with voltage

Come on... 0.3V above nominal isn't even close to the limit (unless the nominal limit is 2.4V or less, or the servo is very low quality).

- If the nominal limit is 6.0V the "acceptable" voltage is 7.0V (a fully charged 6V NiMH battery) and the actual limit... takes some damaging tests to determine.
- If the nominal limit is 7.2V or 7.4V the "acceptable" voltage is 8.4V (a fully charged 7.2V NiMH or 7.4V LiPo battery) and the actual limit... takes some damaging tests to determine.

[The Violator]

Originally Posted by Olle P

Come on... 0.3V above nominal isn't even close to the limit (unless the nominal limit is 2.4V or less, or the servo is very low quality).

- If the nominal limit is 6.0V the "acceptable" voltage is 7.0V (a fully charged 6V NiMH battery) and the actual limit... takes some damaging tests to determine.
- If the nominal limit is 7.2V or 7.4V the "acceptable" voltage is 8.4V (a fully charged 7.2V NiMH or 7.4V LiPo battery) and the actual limit... takes some damaging tests to determine.

I have been running my Hitec servos at 9 volts for years without any issues.