De casing my Mamba Micro Pros

[Nutternugz]

Hello all,

I have been thinking about de casing my Mamba Micro Pro's, is there anyone out there that have done it and can you give me a idea of how to do it.

Thanks in advance

[WooPigSooie]

What are you needing help with exactly? It's a pretty straight forward process. Take the case off, then separate the heatsink from the board. Just use a small flathead and pry up slowly making sure you aren't damaging anything on the board.

[Nutternugz]

Originally Posted by WooPigSooie

What are you needing help with exactly? It's a pretty straight forward process. Take the case off, then separate the heatsink from the board. Just use a small flathead and pry up slowly making sure you aren't damaging anything on the board.

Maybe strait forward for someone experienced with RC electronics, but for me it is scary as hell. Never did it before and was hoping someone out there had some pics showing the process.

Is it the same for MMP's as it is for other ESC's?

[WooPigSooie]

I'm not saying this is the best way but this may help you.

How to decase remove heatsink from your esc / speed controller

[Nutternugz]

Thanks bro

[Erin]

You can also decase and leave heatsinks. Just gently bend caps away from sinks until the sinks mesh together.

I was worried about our high temps here so I left them on.

[Oz Bruiser]

A better way to remove the heat sink is use a heat gun and a pair of long nose pliers and a vice or clamp.

Once de cased hold the esc in position to hold steady in a vice lightly or a clamp just to stop it moving around, but be gentle.

Then using a heat gun apply heat to the heat sink area only, it may be worth sheilding the wires so as not to melt the insulation on the wires.

Once you have heated it up, with a pair of long nose pliers gemtally pull upwards on the heat sink, you should not need force. It should just pop off.

If it dosent or feels still glued re apply heat and then try again.

Prying off with a screw driver can damage the components if the glue is set extra hard. It wont always but could cause dmage to the board prying it off.

Remember when using the Heat gun it does its job well and heats up the vice and surrounding areas or the heat sink and will be hot to touch. Let it cool a little befote touching with your fingers.

Ben

[spillproof]

If you want light, why not go with sidewinder micros. No case already,very minimal design and cheaper. Seem to have lots of pop to them to, even with my current cruddy battery, and buttery smooth low end with my team brood 35t.

[Nutternugz]

Originally Posted by spillproof

If you want light, why not go with sidewinder micros. No case already,very minimal design and cheaper. Seem to have lots of pop to them to, even with my current cruddy battery, and buttery smooth low end with my team brood 35t.

I already have a pair of Mamba Micro's, if I screw the Mamba's up then I will be going with sindwinders.

Thanks for all the input guys, it's a big help.

[Nutternugz]

Originally Posted by Oz Bruiser

A better way to remove the heat sink is use a heat gun and a pair of long nose pliers and a vice or clamp.

Once de cased hold the esc in position to hold steady in a vice lightly or a clamp just to stop it moving around, but be gentle.

Then using a heat gun apply heat to the heat sink area only, it may be worth sheilding the wires so as not to melt the insulation on the wires.

Once you have heated it up, with a pair of long nose pliers gemtally pull upwards on the heat sink, you should not need force. It should just pop off.

If it dosent or feels still glued re apply heat and then try again.

Prying off with a screw driver can damage the components if the glue is set extra hard. It wont always but could cause dmage to the board prying it off.

Remember when using the Heat gun it does its job well and heats up the vice and surrounding areas or the heat sink and will be hot to touch. Let it cool a little befote touching with your fingers.

Ben

Thanks Ben,

I am following your build thread for your "Thing", it's what I am building, (at least trying to build anyway). LOL.